Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

judging by the amount that came up when i did a search about squeeky brakes, I was quite amazed that so many people have the same funny problems as I do (yeah, random idling and the occasional stall or semi-stall etc).

Here's what was going on:

R33 Gtst

stock brakes

bendix ultimate pads (plenty of grip left)

heaps of squeeking

(making me do some funny braking patterns so as to not make any noise when I'm trying to pull up all tough at the lights... I'm sure many of you know what i'm talking about.... It kinda ruins the cool/mean ass effect if you roll up squeeking like a tram...)

SO: I went to super cheap auto and bought me some of that anti squeek business that you spray onto the back of the brake pads (like pink silly string?!) then 10 mins later put back in place.

WELL: It squeeked again from the moment I drove off a couple of hours later (on the way to the drift battle... those crazy bastards... so entertaining)

It quitened down oh so slightly for the odd ride, but generally keeps sounding like an old vans brakes.

MY QUESTION: (in a very long winded manner)

Backing my brake pads are 2 metal shim thinigs, a darker one that fits snuggly, and a silver metal one that goes about half way down.

With my pink silly string, can I spray in between these metal shimajigies, as to make them grip a bit better together and not rub, hence CUTTING OUT THIS RIDICULOUS SQUEEKING?

I'm hoping this might be ok, since I would keep my silly string away from the brake pot things, but am i doing something which may result in me ending up in a tree?

Cheers,

MR SQUEEKY MOUSE...

(ps. If anyone needs me to translate my dribble (yes, it's 1:40am), pls let me know and i can rephrase my question in one brief question)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/58938-anti-squeek-on-brakes/
Share on other sites

Hey, what's all this anti-squeel plates business? Do many people have experience with these? If people have actually used these before, do you guys n gals find them effective? And what's different about them compared to the stockies?

(Actually, do all you other people have the same 2 backing plates that I do?)

If I can find a solution to these loud brakes I'll write something up, coz it seems to be a common thing.... hmm..

Try hard braking from high-ish (eg: 70kmh) speed. this is usually done to "bed in" the brake pads when you first get them to get resin off. However, my dads BMW had the loudest sqeals, he took the car up to speed and braked hard as, but not hard enough to activate the ABS. Problem solved.

Madmoo;

If you've read the posts on squeaky f%^king brakes you'll know it can be caused by many things and that the squeal is a harmonic - effectively the brake acts like a bell. In my case retaining DS2500 Ferodo pads and swapping from two to one piece discs solved the problem when nothing else would.

Sorry no experience with Bendix, if they are metal pads then expect some squeal, try some organic stuff - even if you get cheapies from a wrecker to see what happens and this might give you a clue. Don't whatever you do spray the stringy stuff on anything other than the pad backing plate.

You didn't mention the history of this - has it just started, did it coincide with a pad change etc?

Regards

The squeeking started not long after the bendix pads were installed (ultimates). I don't know if the workshop bedded the brakes in or not...

If the discs were machined, would that mean it's kinda like doing things again, and getting to bed the brakes again, to make it match up to the discs?

Back to another part of my question before... do any of you guys know if you have 2 metal shim/plate things behind your disc pads?

The closest one of mine to the pad is dark metal, and the same size as the pad, the other is a shiny metal (steel?) that only covers the top 1/2 or 2/3 or the pad. If you can't quite get the picture of this, when you see the imprint from the disc pot things (whatever they're called, that press the pads... the big round things), the circle shape doesn't quite fit on the shiny metal part, and the rests overlaps onto the darker metal...

My other question that i just thought of is this... when people say "anti squeel shims/pads/something", are they referrring to the backing plate thing behind the brake pad, or the actual brake rotor/disc thinig..?

Thanks for your input....

= }

Oh yeah... GTR32, I have done some reading up on all this squeeky business, and I remember reading about the harmonics and frequencies etc... Any idea what exactly is vibrating? is it the disc, or something in the pad/backing/calliper assembly?

Also, don't worry, i just sprayed my silly string on the back of the pad.....

Actually, that's why i'm wondering about which bit is vibrating etc, coz if it's these plates behind brake pads, then would a tiny amount of silly sting in between help to stop the metal on metal rubbing?

Or maybe that would just make everything stick together and decide not to work, and i'd end up in a pond somewhere....? hmm..

Moo;

the harmonics are in the disc. best way to describe it is to imagine the disc is like a bell. the interference between the pad and the disc sets up a frequency in the disc that we hear as a squeal.

the two plates on the rear of the pad are anti squeal shims designed to damper the harmonics. sometimes they aren't enough.

if you have a combination that is going to squeal, sometimes no amount of machining/bedding will fix it, as i discovered.

sounds to me that the pads are the culprit if the squealing started after fitting them. you might try chamfering the leading and trailing edges of the pad, that sometimes helps. Or as I suggested just get some alternative pads from somewheer and try them to see if you can isolate the problem.

if you stick the 2 shims together they will squeel.....

Fist time I installed ultimates, I stuck the 2 together with the anti squeel brake glue, and they squeeled like a mother ****er.

Then I took them out, peeled all that glue off and glued one shim to the brake pad, and put some on the outside of the smaller shim so it sticks to the pistons.

So the only part where ther WASN'T any glue was between the 2 shims.

Now I am on my 3rd pair of ultimates (as of yesterday) and there has been NO SQUEEL since......

Give that a try...

Also make sure you bed them in properly. I just did 5 really hard stops from 50 km/h, and that was enough...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...