Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fellas,

Yesterday was quite hot in melbourne and my engine temp reached 86c which is warmish but the car still ran fine... Today when i went to drive my car the idle is very irratic. when the engine is at operating tempreture the engines idle goes from around 900-1400rpm by itself... Constantly goes up and down. I have checked most of the electrical connections and most of my hose connections and yet and still have no cure....

Any help would be much appreciated

i have a 96 mdl r33 turbo manual with a Power FC computer

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59049-idle-is-up-to-shit-help/
Share on other sites

Hey mate,

Not sure whether i completely understand your problem, but it sounds like a similar problem I had... I suggest you check the harness running in2 the ECU, because that was my problem...

The RPM signal was cut, and re-soldered but a very average effort so when it got warm the wire's would expand then when it cooled it would only contact every so often so it would be unstable.

The wire colour is yellow with a blue strip running through it...

Hope this helps but not too sure because I'm not sure whether the harness was changed with the Apexi FC...

Goodluck mate,

Let me know how you go!

the problem seems to be related to engine temp... car idles fast when its cold because its on the cold start procedure, when the engine temp gets to 60c the engine note changes a little and as soon as it hits 68c the idle goes all funny.... from 1200-1600rpm.... up and down up and down constantly.... When I turn the car off and restart it straight away at operating tempreture the engine sits on 2000rpm for around 5 seconds and the drops to 1200rpm and revs up to 1600rpm up and down.... Its really giving me the sits...

It didnt do it yesterday but today i did.... Very very strange

Make sure that you have a fully functioning genuine Nissan Thermostat.

Rated at 76.5degC (stamped on it) $30 from Nissan if thats the problem.

The thermostat is designed to commence opening at 76.5degC and be fully open at approx 90degC.

So yeah, the temp should be within this mark when at operating temperature.

Also with age the Clutch Fan can be engadged all the time, and not allowing the motor to warm up properly.

The clutch centre is viscous type, and should only tighten up when its warm.

And the last thing, make sure the guage is right that you have the temp reading from.

Does it use an independant sensor or is it piggybacked to the factory sensor?

If its piggybacked you can get wrong readings.

I would consider 86-92degC normal operating temp for these motors.

86 cruising

92 idle with air-con on + hot day.

If its way lower than that, you are going to get bad economy and accelerated engine wear.

Is that for a RB25det only? because my R32 RB20det sits on 78degC for normal driving and the highest ever temp was 86degC in stinking hot heat with a full car load.

Thats a general rule of thumb for most motors.

78degC sounds preety fine to me.

I mean if it were lower than the thermastat temperature then it would be a problem.

i.e If you said it was running at 50degC all the time, then there would be a problem.

  • 3 weeks later...
Try cleaning the AAC valve. Check the TPS throttle-closed position.

sorry to dig up the thread again but I have been having issues with idle lately also.

Each time I disengage a gear and return to neutral, ie when stopping my revs seem to jump up a couple of hundred rpm. I have pulled apart and cleaned out the AAC Valve numerous times in the last 12 months so it must be something else, any ideas?

Where should the TPS position be when closed? Is there a general rule like TDC or something?

Thanks

Dale

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...