Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Was just flicking through the new Jaycar Electronics mag and saw that they've knocked up a sort of PFC hand controller thingo for some new kits they've released!!!

Kits include:

Hand controller kit for digital adjusters (PFC hand controller-esque thingo)

Boost Controller Kit (Uses factory solenoid)*

Digital Speedo Correction Kit (for changes of diff/gear ratios)

Automatic turbo timer

Fuel Adjuster Kit (uses the AFM signal to do this)*

Digital Pulse Adjuster Kit (For adding injectors)*

Nitrous Fuel Mixture Kit (Controls nitrous injection, based on engine speed)

The ones marked with the * require the controller to program them...but for a DIY kit it's got quite good resolution...brilliant for those that are more interested in a product that works instead of visible rice appeal.

Go to www.jaycar.com.au for a squizz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59262-jaycar-selling-some-ok-kits-for-cars/
Share on other sites

How could everyone already be using them, they have only been available for about a couple of weeks ???

No they have been around for a while.

The Turbo Timer is only $35, so cheap - wouldn't every man and his dog have a HKS/Greddy one now if they were that price?

The Boost Controller is $80 or so dollars + Hand Controller + Solenoid + No Product Good Will.

I'm just a little skeptical, that is my opinion and I feel I'm free to say so on a forum like this.

I'm certainly interested in the speedo adjuster since i have a 4.3:1 diff.

Now for $80 the boost controller looks good, but it's another $60 for the hand-contoller, so if that's ALL you use for it's now $140 for a boost controller.

If you don't have a boost solenoid you'll need one of those too.

THEN you have to set it up, which if you don't have some sort of RPM/Speed and Boost data-logging is going to be a hit and miss affair, relying more on gut feel than real data, for on road tuning. Therefore most people will require dyno time for the setup which equals more money.

Suddenly a secondhand HKS EVC, or similar, with self-learning (which just needs a backstreet to give it a good thrash) doesn't look so expensive. Not to mention they're a proven unit.

Now i think it's great there's some aussie outfits getting in to this for a good price, and you could save a bit by sharing hand-controllers etc, but you need to look at the TOTAL costs associated with these things. Also i can GUARANTEE you which one will hold its resale value the better.

or you could buy a silicon chip mag for about $7.50 (or free at a public library) and all the parts for about 50 bucks and build it yourself.

Also I have a wholesale acct with jaycar's distributor, which means I can get the handcontrololer for $40 and the boost controller for $55 if any of you guys want any of em.

No they have been around for a while.

The Turbo Timer is only $35, so cheap - wouldn't every man and his dog have a HKS/Greddy one now if they were that price?

The Boost Controller is $80 or so dollars + Hand Controller + Solenoid + No Product Good Will.

I'm just a little skeptical, that is my opinion and I feel I'm free to say so on a forum like this.

Not everyone has the skill or will to build them.

You have to balance the cost with risk. You build the boost controller wrong or it doesn't work boom. Same goes with the other kits. The also look like they are made the most cheapest way possible. Single sided boards, no ground planes...etc.etc.etc....

Some people would probably get a lot more satisfaction from DIY...lets face it not everyone is a soldering iron champ....but those that are capable may well find this suits them.

I may take you up on that offer Shan, I'm interested in the turbo timer and boost controller

Hi guys, having built quite a few electronics kits over the years I have found the Silicone Chip ones can be relied upon to do exactly what they are designed to do. I am not a Julian Edger fan, but he did a lot of research and real world testing on these items. So I have a fair bit of faith that they will do as specified on the Stagea.

Over the Xmas break I am building;

the boost controller $80

the hand controller $60

the fuel adjuster $80

For a total cost of $220 (around half what an SAFC costs) I get to program, control and monitor, too good a deal to dismiss lightly. I will publish the results (inc dyno sheets) when all is finished.

Merry Xmas to all:cheers:

If anyone's that worried about using single sided boards etc, I can etch you a PCB if you wanna supply me with the materials. But yeah let me know part numbers and I'll get you the wholesale prices.

Hi guys, having built quite a few electronics kits over the years I have found the Silicone Chip ones can be relied upon to do exactly what they are designed to do.  I am not a Julian Edger fan, but he did a lot of research and real world testing on these items.  So I have a fair bit of faith that they will do as specified on the Stagea.

Over the Xmas break I am building;

the boost controller $80

the hand controller $60

the fuel adjuster $80

For a total cost of $220 (around half what an SAFC costs) I get to program, control and monitor, too good a deal to dismiss lightly.  I will publish the results (inc dyno sheets) when all is finished.

Merry Xmas to all:cheers:

You can always be relied upon SK, good (future) work :), despite my previous comments I'll be VERY interested in your results.

The Turbo Timer is only $35, so cheap - wouldn't every man and his dog have a HKS/Greddy one now if they were that price?

A turbo timer is only WORTH 35 bucks. If you open up a commercial unit, you'd be surpised how small the component count is and how simple the circuit is.

The also look like they are made the most cheapest way possible. Single sided boards, no ground planes...etc.etc.etc....

Why use a double-sided or a multiple layered board when a single-sided one will suffice? The kits mentioned do not use sensitive high-frequency circuits and as such there is no need for ground planes. Remember the art of designing is to do it in the simplest possible way, for the simplest things in life are the best, and easier to troubleshoot too, should the need arise.

So why DIY when you can buy a ready-made product? Because the process of DIY is enormously rewarding, addictive and you can learn so much from it. The journey is just as important as the destination.

Sydneykid, good luck and have fun building the kits. We certainly look forward to hearing the results from you.

The Jaycar boost controller is very simple. Unlike commercially available Electronic boost controllers, the Jaycar unit is not closed loop. It is basically an electonic bleed valve which can bleed different amounts at different RPM points.

It will never check the real time boost pressure and compare it to some target value as the commercial units do.

Also, a decent solenoid, like those included in Turst, HKS, Blitz etc boost controller would add to the cost of the boost controller significantly.,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...