Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i'm tossing up between the r33 and r32, did some research on the r33's, now for the r32's, i was wondering what kinda power figures and quarter mile times a lightly modded r32 is capable of?

mods would include, pod, front mount, full exhaust, and a tune, and boosted on the standard turbo, a few ppl have been telling me that the rb20's in standard trim dont have much torque, would this kinda of set up help much with the torque issue? cause i like my cars with some torque and if the r32's dont fill my needs then i'll just spend a bit more and get the r33, will be waiting for ur advice guys, thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59283-info-on-lightly-modded-r32s/
Share on other sites

RB20's have no torque (compared with a RB25). I went with a R32 because it looks better.

Generally speaking Skylines are very robust performance cars, I guess the thing to look out for it the condition of the car (seats, carpet, steering wheel, how the gearbox feels, how dirty the motor is, how it sounds, window and door seals etc...)

yeah,i know an importer that would sell an r32 gtst w pod,hks ssqv,coilovers,r33 gtR buckets,75000ks...the one with the sunroof,also got a veilside front bar, new midnight blue paintjob and r32 gtr rims for 13,you know,for that price,youd save alot off the r33s price already,spend the difference,unless alot of bodywork done,r33s jus commodore anyway

everyone knows an importer or a friend of a friend who sells R32 for that price, but the reality is that there are costs involved in getting a car complied and on the road...

For a decent R32, you are looking at spending at least 15k.

nemz: don't mean to offend - this may be a bargain R32, but I have just seen so many similar posts - but have never seen a decent R32 for under 15.

Things to look out for: check windows, check wheel arches for rust, service history, interior condition, rubber in wheel arches (burnouts)...

Have a full mechanical insspection done including compression test!

they are 89 models though,the only problem i had was stock bov leaking boost back through plumbback,got a new one and its running fine,i really diddnt know i could get such a good example for 11,3,gave me a kakimoto exhaust 3" all the way,even had coloured drink holders lol

When i first got my R32 i did some basic mods(ehxaust, intercooler, boost and tune) which it made 190 rwkw, and ran 12.9 @117 mph on street 17" tyres. The mods didnt cost much at all ( around $1500) and left me with a close to stock 12 sec street car.

well either way dude,im not here to criticise you,nor you me,its beside the point,im sure there are alot of rip offs out there,maby the clock was wound back,but its still got original timing belt,the water pump dosent need changing,lets say it did ....whats an average for aussie conditions...18oooks a year x 15 years,thats 220,000 ks or so,what turbo engine would be running perfect after that? and if it has done over 150ooo ks im happy its running the way it is,for 11000 youd expect things to stuff up,ive had it for a year now and the only problem was that bov.

i've been looking around and its true that r32's in decent nick are really hard to find for under 15g, i've been looking at both the r32 and 33 and the r33 only seems to be a few more grand, not that much difference

on another note, about the km's issue, if its got an aftermarket speedo with the 180km plus speedo, this wouldnt be the correct km's reading right? it would be the reading from when the new speedo was put it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...