Transmission Cooler

[RBPOWA-(TJ)]

where your stock intercooler is. . . put the trans cooler on the other side, just dont know if there is room there, just sounds good

if i need one after my gearbox rebuild, im gonna try V-mount OIL and TRANS cooler in there, intercooling pipe will be re-done to a stealth setup

[epic]

can anyone recommend a decent transmission builder in perth.

im new to the state and dont know anyone over here. i rang c-red but they wanted way too much money even for a simple oil change

cheers

[KiwiRS4T]

can anyone recommend a decent transmission builder in perth.

im new to the state and dont know anyone over here. i rang c-red but they wanted way too much money even for a simple oil change

cheers

Hey mate that was MV automatics Kidafa was trying to steer you to. Try googling them and you'll get some info on their shift kit - maybe email them and ask Mike who has done installations of his kit in Perth ...would be cheaper to get the kit at the same time as the fluid is changed. Changing the atf is not a simple task but you can do it yourself. Dropping the sump on the auto box will only yield around 1 or 2 litres but at least then you can clean the fiter (its steel) and pan and then put it back together. then take off a hose from the transmssion oil cooler and run the engine until you have collected a couple of litres. Stop the engine and pour 2L of new atf down the dipstick (for the auto trans ) and repeat til the oil comes out clean. Could take 10 to 12 Litres.

[chuckie]

Will take at least that i did mine used 15 ,got filter kit & did it my self as you said every one want to much to do simple job,Steve pm me will give you name for shop for service kit & i would use GEN NISSAN fluid in it ,+ may help with name & number for auto box guy i was given,you have series 1 ?,hope you get sorted ,cheer`s chuckie

[epic]

PM sent chuckie

yeah i have a series 1. hoping to get some s2 rear lights soon.

getting the trans cooler in 2 weeks :-)

[DaveB]

where your stock intercooler is. . . put the trans cooler on the other side, just dont know if there is room there, just sounds good

That's where I'll eventually get mine side-mounted by MV Autos; that's actually the location they said they mount it in.

[RBPOWA-(TJ)]

instead of making a new thread (there is heaps of people who do that already) im using an old one.

my A/T light came on before .... kinda freak me out, cause last time it came on, it was at the same spot and it costed me $1800 for a rebuild :S

today was a damn hot day, maxed at 38 i think. i only drove my car for about 1hour today, in the heat, and then it sat there for the rest.

just before leaving the ladies house, i got down the road and the A/T light came on, so i pulled over straight away, turned the car off.

got out a torch and looked for leaks, saw a stain dont know how old it is, turned it back on and kept going. got into second gear and the light came back on, wasnt in limp mode cause all the gears worked fine.

i park on the grass nightly, so tonight its in the drive way. now the reason im posting this here is, would the heat have anything to do with it ? i try not to drive it in the heat, but i did today and used the AC which i never use (waste of fuel).

i'll be checking the oils tomorrow, and looking for fresh drops. its drops, im heading down to the workshop for a new gasket.

[DaveB]

Well all I know is i've never had a problem with the S2 in the heat. When I first got it there were a few occasions when the light came on and I pulled over & reset it with the ignition. There is a procedure on here somewhere (search for auto transmission fault codes) which will help you read out the fault code and identify it. My shift solenoids were my culprit; eventually they failed completely, putting trans into limp mode and I got them replaced. Been spot on ever since. New shift solenoid racks (including new pressure regulator), shift kit & alloy shift servo has totally transformed the 'box.

[RBPOWA-(TJ)]

cheers Dave

this sucks now, cause the guy who built my box has some new solenoids to go in, they have been there for ages, just get home after work, cbf swaping cars and heading over there. and the time i rang to book, his hoist failed haha.

ohwell, pull out the daily for weekend duties now hope i can work it out tomorrow or next week sometime.

[DaveB]

Ah yeah it does suck having your stag' off the road Mine seems to spend about as much time off the road as on it... I am lucky to have a (parents') loan car for all the time my stagea spends in my garage or someone else's.

Your situation sure reads like the typical shift solenoid scenario... actually I remember Mike at MV's saying that the solenoids are sensitive to heat; they heat up and start faulting, but when cold the fault is sometimes difficult even to measure. If you can get new solenoids in there (they come on some sort of 'rack' - shift solenoids A and B - and they replace a couple other things as well like a pressure regulator) I reckon that will solve your issues. Fingers are crossed... sounds like you have got the rest of the box taken care of and plenty of life left in the bands and the cogs?

[RBPOWA-(TJ)]

yeah the rest is fine. just rang up the shop, there in today !

but they only doing 3 more jobs to empty the place and hopfully out by miday !!!! so they can get the floors repainted.

so stagea is parked up still next year! bloody f**king heat wave !!!

gotta drive my pissy little 1.3ltr hatch now!. and gotta pick up something in wagon on tuesday. hope i can tie to the roof of the little car haha

edit: just had a look, there is a stain the size of a 50cent coin on the driveway :S. but oils are looking fine. think i'll try and be smart this time and not drive it at all, i did that last time if was leaking and yeah it wasnt cheap

[910trx]

dude - towed a fully laiden trailer which represented a small garden shed for 2500kms

usually in +35`C heat

with aircon on

no trans issues what so ever

infact i think is shifts better and drives nicer after the trip!

i would not have thought ambient air temp would be enough to set the at light on

[RBPOWA-(TJ)]

but its leaking fluid so it wouldn't help.

i'll wing it on tuesday then park it up again. just put $80 of fuel in also lol SOB

[910trx]

if its leaking it probably not getting substantial hydraulic pressure then triggering the light

or there is not enough pressure or an air emulsion, more slippage in gears = more heat

i'd refrain from driving unless to get it repaired - might cause more damage than you can afford

bit of a kick in the balls in'it!

hope your mech can fix your box

[RBPOWA-(TJ)]

haha yeah its his project. cause he wants my gearbox in his r33 gtr to drag.

so he's kinda playing around with it, beefing it up and all that jazz. so it will only get better, and pretty cheap price also, cause he's never done this kinda thing to this gearbox before, on read about how strong they are.

but the next person to go in for the same job may get a bigger bill.

[Trex]

Thread bump.

If you were to use a manual radiator would a large transmission cooler work fine? Or would running 2 in series be better as you've gotten rid of the radiator cooling?

[scotty nm35]

It would shift like a bitch, slurring into gear for ages until the fluid warmed up.

The radiator isn't just an overtemp cooler, it is actually a fluid warmer first and foremost.

[Trex]

So it would be a case of trial and error while using a temp gauge and possibly fab up a thermostat to get it as close to the original as possible? Would there be an easier way?

edit: probably stupid, probably better off staying with the standard radiator. But lets say for people wanting a 52mm etc how would you go about this? I'm not doing this, i just want to know.

Edited February 27, 2014 by Stagea97

[scotty nm35]

My opinion, stick to the stock setup, radiator included. I wish I did.

[Trex]

That's my feeling too scotty. I've heard of soo many alloy rads shitting themselves. But on the other hand, so many cheap ones that haven't.

Really, you're better off spending more and getting the standard auto radiator. The problem with the alloy ones is they don't come with the sensor input which is weird...