Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi folks,

I just did my first oil change a couple of weeks ago (thanks to sciby's great tute).

I filled the container from the new oil with the old stuff, and it's been sitting on the bedroom floor since.

I obviously can't tip it down the sink to feed the dolphins... can i put it in the bin, or does it have to be deposited somewhere?

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59493-where-to-put-old-oil/
Share on other sites

Jsut chuck it in your normal Bin, just make sure it wont tip out and everything is fine :D

Beh! We live in this world we should treat it better than that.

I'm not by any stretch of the imagination legit but nor am I gonna hurt the environment if I can help it (so.. only when I drive my fossil car).

I usually hunt around for a garage or mechanics that has their waste sitting outside and dump it in with their stuff. Helps me sleep at night knowing it's being disposed of properly AAAND i haven't had to go searching too far to chuck it.

Anyone in sydney, I suggest you take it with you next time you are out at Eastern Creek or WSID, they have recyling oil bins there. Just tip it in and pat yourself on the back for a job well done.

any servo that has a workshop will take it. Also any mechanic should take it. I think they get it picked up for free anyway so just drive round to an industrial area where there are a few mechanics and shouold be fine, most will be happy enough to take it. Sometimes they make you pour it though, so dont spill it on your work clothes. Otherwise the tip.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shove more foam in it as a minimum if you possibly can. Or steel wool (not the stuff with soap on it!) Baffles / getting the oil out of the air is huge, and should be done at both the cam cover, and the catch can.   I'm about to do a power steering reservoir, and even that needs some thought to make sure air is separated from the oil, to stop evil Cavitation. I'll probably look at doing my own catchcan later on too.
    • I was once told, who it was I'm to old to remember, that the length of the OEM wheels brace supplied with a vehicle is designed long enough for a average person to apply enough torque to do up, and undo the wheel nuts to the specified torque  What a average person is is anyone's guess though, i.e. average fat bastard, average knuckle head, average perfect sized human......like me Unless of course, a tyre shop has ugga dugga'd them up to "torque to yeild/strip" specs, used cross threading as natures lock tight, or a big breaker bar was used to tighten them up to get some nice stretch in the poor old wheel studs Me, I torque wheel nuts to 1 elbow joint click, lower torque settings are based of wrist clicks, higher torque settings are based of shoulder clunks, or total dislocation for anything that requires all of the torques 
    • I think the catch can design is pretty flawed. Evident in the fact that the V2 one moved to a larger top mounted filter which alone would have helped with overflow and reduce restrictions compared with the side filter. I also imagine there was a major improvement to the baffling design. It is worth mentioning that this catch can with the RB20 was never as much of an issue and the high kms RB25 is likely a part of the problem. I have gotten quotes for both a new "Vibrant Gen 3" catch can and to modify this existing ones but that may have to wait until after the track day. I hope the sump/head breathers/drains and cam splash plates will be enough
    • Yep, both. The ratio is 1.8 instead of OEM being 1.7. The rocker bodies are modified with a larger bolt hole and re-threaded with 10mm holes instead of the 8mm YT has stock. Finding out they don't actually fit the stock castings cause a lot of un-impressment by the person in the USA who tapped the new holes for the 'upgraded' YT product. He was very unhappy with them given their previous design did not require 'clearancing'
    • That too, but I think this is why she's put the work into the cam cover baffles. I mean, a catch can should only need to be a catch can, not an oil air separator also. Not to say that putting the effort into having it do a better job of oil-air sep is a waste of time, but doing the sep earlier is always going to make life better. And that should happen now anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...