Car has arrived !! == MERRY CHRISTMAS!!

[ocean]

when you say back into the bulkhead, where do you mean?

As far as i can tell, this is the only rail damage:

Lower Radiator Support:

Shot from the front:

And one more thing.. these cars are bloody heavy!! Had to push it up the hill into the garage yesterday..

If you want any more pictures let me know..

-Patrick

[ylwgtr2]

give neil a call at binks nissan/ford......If you want to fix it properly id be putting it on a bench

[ylwgtr2]

bulkhead=firewall....it looks way to soft for that tho...but when you said 10mm back thats what made me ask

[ocean]

The idea is basically this:

I'll strip the front of the car back, guards, lights, cooler, radiator, air-con, oil cooler etc, then assess the damage, if it looks like it really needs a bench (which i think it does) i will get it done by the pros.

They can do the radiator support and chassis rail and i will bolt the car back together..

-Patrick

[ocean]

bulkhead=firewall....it looks way to soft for that tho...but when you said 10mm back thats what made me ask

Definitely not into the firewall.. the damage is limited to in front of the front subframe

[ylwgtr2]

cool....if you need a hand yell out!I love this type of work

[Wilks]

You should remove that picture of your key immediately.

It could be replicated easily.

[ocean]

It also needs a new set of rear discs.. I think someone did an absolute monster burn out in this thing - extreme brake dust on rear rims, rear discs are ~3mm worn on each side!!

Pic:

I'll get a better picture of this once the wheels are off and the car in the air..

-Patrick

[ocean]

You should remove that picture of your key immediately.

It could be replicated easily.

Shit.

Removed..

-Patrick

[ocean]

Update:

Today i removed

Headlights

Indicators

Air conditioning condenser

Radiator (bloody hard to get out)

Bottom radiator support definitely needs to be replaced. It is bent in to within 20mm of the engine fan. LH Chassis rail is straight, RH has been bent diagonally in and up by around 25mm. The area where the intercooler piping returns towards the plenum is where most of the damage is, although this pipe does not appear to have been damaged. The battery platform is still in the right place.

Unfortunately it looks like the rear turbo has been spitting out some oil.. not a great deal, but there is some in the piping from this turbo.

I have no pictures at the moment, my mate wanted his digital camera back for christmas.

-Patrick

[ocean]

I discovered today that the turbos in this car are very hard to remove.

After some broken tools, a broken turbo stud, a number of skinned knuckles, and not a great deal of progress, it's definitely time to go to bed.

[usuckpoo]

Might want to consider dropping the entire engine on its subframe out of the car?

since u r going to have to work on the rails anyway

[ocean]

I'm going to try to avoid that at all costs.. The way things are looking it's not going to be necessary anyway.

I will post some more pics up soon that show the front in more detail now that the radiator and air con are out..

-Patrick

[ocean]

Did a compression test today after cleaning out all the water from the spark plug holes..

1: 120psi

2: 120psi

3: 105psi

4: 115psi

5: 115psi

6: 105psi

Remember that compression test results are dependent both on the type of compression tester used and the speed of crank, so these results should be taken as an indication only.

Overally I am quite happy with what this suggest: No major internal engine problems with the pistons, rings and valve seating.

A question for you guys, this car is currently running NGK R number 9 spark plugs. Another forum member has suggested NGB BCPR7ES plugs, does anyone know if these will be ok, or do i need a colder heat rating?

Also, when i had power to the car today i checked out the boost controller - the two settings currently programmed are 1.2 bar (~17.5psi) and 1.4 bar (~20.5psi).

Apart from this I cleaned a rear wheel today... It took about 5 hours with ~1600psi of high pressure cleaner and a whole bottle of wheel cleaner. I want to hurt whoever let these wheels get this dirty!!

Any comments welcome,

-Patrick

[Tyler Durden]

Could the GRID computer you mentioned be a torque splitter?

[doridori32]

Did a compression test today after cleaning out all the water from the spark plug holes..

1: 120psi

2: 120psi

3: 105psi

4: 115psi

5: 115psi

6: 105psi

Remember that compression test results are dependent both on the type of compression tester used and the speed of crank, so these results should be taken as an indication only.

Overally I am quite happy with what this suggest: No major internal engine problems with the pistons, rings and valve seating.

A question for you guys, this car is currently running NGK R number 9 spark plugs.  Another forum member has suggested NGB BCPR7ES plugs, does anyone know if these will be ok, or do i need a colder heat rating?

Also, when i had power to the car today i checked out the boost controller - the two settings currently programmed are 1.2 bar (~17.5psi) and 1.4 bar (~20.5psi).

Apart from this I cleaned a rear wheel today... It took about 5 hours with ~1600psi of high pressure cleaner and a whole bottle of wheel cleaner.  I want to hurt whoever let these wheels get this dirty!!

Any comments welcome,

-Patrick

Hello,

your compression seems too low? isnt 130-150 correct?

Also, you sure the boost controller is Bar ?? Or is it kg/cm2?

1kg/cm2 is 14.2psi.

Petar.

[Tyler Durden]

Does anyone else have the r32 workshop manual? It states compression pressure as 12kg/cm2 at 300rpm (i figure it may be a typo? 3000rpm?) for rb26dett.

[Guest Mashrock]

**** that seems like alot of work, for 24k est all up.

but i guess it isnt that bad. your car does come with a fair few goodies.

i'll try by the end of next week to post up what 27k bought me.

[skyline_babe5]

Congrats on the car! Awesome present best of luck with fixing it up keep up with the updates!

[[[d a n n y]]]

good luck mate..