Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 4 door, laurel and cefiro kits EOI!


pitchd
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 120
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

check the link it has a picture... theyre 20-30mm wider and have a vent... theyre glass which is lighter than the steel... not sure if the vents actually have a real prupose tho.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

normal vented fiberglass 20-30mm+ pumped guards?

grab your standard guards - flare them out 20-30mm, copy them in fiberglass and throw a reverse vent in the side and youve got what is being offered...

umm...

fc3s25mmpumped.jpg

Ni youre too quick! you hadnt even posted when i wrote my post up and you still beat me! argh! :kick:

the vents just look cool like z3's (thats where the trend started)

- adz

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My car will need a respray in the next 6-12 months so a bodykit makes sense at the same time, so i'm certainly interested, but do you have any pics of r32 kits other than the BN as that one doesn't really do it for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the obvious solution for that sort of power level is a G30-660 or similar (assuming you're talking engine HP and not some bullshit wheel HP, otherwise you'd probably be looking at a -770). Then you just need fuel pump, injectors, management, consideration of oil system upgrade and engine breathing control, clutch, diff, and brake upgrades, big intercooler, money put aside for breakages to all of the driveline components, and so on. You don't need the plenum change - it will hurt street performance. (Yes, it will make more power, and yes it looks "better", for a given definition of "better", but that's no reason to change things IMO). It will cost you torque at the bottom end. This is a standard weekend build here in Oz, for one of these. The secret sauce is in fitting enough engine protection sensors and setting the ECU up to use them so that you don't trash the engine the second something goes wrong. Oil pressure, oil temperature, coolant pressure, EGT, are all good things for that.
    • It's a 98 R34 sedan with 51,XXX km on the clock extremely clean no valve train noise and not a single issue with it. I'm just looking for some more power and dress up the engine bay a bit so it looks more presentable. Antilag was an idea for quick spool but I don't want to ruin it so I won't go that route
    • Surely the ECCs relay is still involved in getting the Haltech fired up. Don't just probe wires and wonder. Actually inspect the wiring - where it goes, where it came from, and try to work out what the installer has done. That's assuming you bought it like this and don't have the original installer available. Otherwise, ask them.
    • If it's an R34 it's definitely a Neo. If it's an R33 (were there any '98 33s?) then it's definitely an S2. There is no chance that it is an S1. Don't do anti-lag. These things are getting to be as rare as hen's teeth. The days of being able to grenade a motor and just pick up another from the wrecker for $1000 are so far gone here in Australia that every wanker that ever did it is regretting doing it now.
    • This might help identify the RB25 you have;     
×
×
  • Create New...