Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im a bit of a newb to the skylines i only got mine about 3 weeks ago. Anyway on friday while driving i noticed my car was loosing power, i would notice it would lose power but then i could put my foot down again and it was fine. Later that day i was driving along when my engine cut out and wouldn't start again. I disconnected one of the fuel lines and turned the ignition to pos #3 to prime the fuel pump but no fuel came out the line, cranked engine over still no fuel.

Got her towed home and i have just checked the fuel pump wiring. On the pump are 5 wires going though 2 clips i put a multi meter on them and turned ignition to pos #3

Grey Clip

Black Wire - Earthed (confirmed)

Green? Wire - 12v

Gray w/red strip - 8v

Brown Clip

Two wires can't remember the colour but both showed zero volts.

Can anyone confirm for me what each of these wires do? And with confirmed power through the grey clip can i conclude that my fuel pump has died?

Cheers for any help guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59611-fuel-pump-dead/
Share on other sites

the grey clip sounds like your fuel guage sender unit.. with the grey w/red strip being the response wire which will vary with fuel lvl!

the brown clip sounds like your fuel pump wire... since the R33's use the ECU to vary the current on idle means that your pump is not gettion power from the ECU .. check that PIN 18 is properl;y connected by removeing the kick panel and unplugging then reinserting the plug ....

the fuel relay in the rear fuse panel may also be blown .. check those too and have them tested properly.. im no where near my line so i can check which one it is for you.. shouldn't be hard to diagnose this, and i doubt that it would be the pump causing this situation!

Hope this helps :cheers:

CT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59611-fuel-pump-dead/#findComment-1137735
Share on other sites

Ok well i went through the boot and found the fuel pump relay. It looks ok but im going to buy another one today and chuck it in. Fingers crossed that that will fix it :D

I pulled the ECU harness off in the kick panel but i'll be buggered if i can match pins to the wiring diagram that sherlock_nzl posted :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59611-fuel-pump-dead/#findComment-1138746
Share on other sites

Chucked a new fuel relay in just to see if that was the problem but it didn't make a difference.

I was just going to get the relay tested but when i range up the parts place they said they have some which are classified as old stock so i could have one for $20

Bargain :D So even thou it wasn't the problem at least i have one spare now :D

Can anyone recommend anything else before i get it towed to a mechanic...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59611-fuel-pump-dead/#findComment-1138879
Share on other sites

Ok update, im a idiot! Spoke to my mechanic friend who told me a fact i should have known. When turning the ignition on it only supplies power to the pump for approx 3 seconds. So by the time i got to the back of the car to check the multi meter the power was off.

I checked it again and there is power getting to the pump so its definatly a faulty pump :D Time for a new pump... *sigh*

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/59611-fuel-pump-dead/#findComment-1138949
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Once the belt slips it can very easily cause a cascade that encourages more belt slip. Check the pulleys carefully and see if the grooves have cupped. If it has it's time to replace the pulleys. If the rubber has glazed you also need to replace it. Shouldn't be shiny. From the factory there's a lot of exposed fibers(?) on a v-belt that will go away as it's broken in but some should still remain visible without sticking out significantly like a new belt. I went through this on my dad's Camry recently. It would keep slipping even after setting the tension higher, only solution was a new belt.
    • Belt polished and/or pulley(s) glazed. Rub pulleys with sandpaper, replace belt.
    • I've also got a quick jack. I would never get under my car again without using it.  While it might be quicker to use a jack and stands, it is such a quality of life improvement that I wouldn't have it any other way now.  How much slower the quick jack is to setup will be based on your circumstances. Can you leave the jack rails on each side of the garage? Can you leave the hydraulic lines attached? etc.  If you can drive the car into the garage and simply push the jacking rail thingos under the car into place, it is super quick to setup and use. But if you have to pull the pump unit out of storage, attach the hydraulic lines, wheel out the lifting rail thingos.... yeah takes a bit of time. Having said that, I would still prefer that to using a jack and stands lol. 
    • Sydney Tools have them for ~$3400. More than the Quick Lifts but these seem better. https://sydneytools.com.au/product/quickjack-7000tl208240v-5175642-7000lb-110220v-portable-light-duty-truck-and-passenger-car-lift-system  
×
×
  • Create New...