Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am a PSI Performance and C-red boy..... they have worked well for me.... so far....

P.S.... here we go again.....with threads like this everyone has their own opinions..:uh-huh:

from what i have learnt it is all a matter who you are comfortable with.... EVERY mechanic has pissed someone off someway!....:uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5984-car-servicing/#findComment-90475
Share on other sites

ok before a full blown bitch fight arrives

there are many performances places in perth

all will have there good and bad points. some poeple like to stick to one place others prefer to find whos good at what and then go to those places for that particular job.

this thread i will only accept names of the places been and whats good about them. any negative tal will be edited out.

cause they can use it as evidence in defimation or slander cases

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5984-car-servicing/#findComment-90489
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Pva_Glue

arrgee here it goes with bitch slapping other machanics shops!

I think best way isDIY  over few cans of beer iwth your mates.:uh-huh: I'll help you after Exam!

chees

Joe

Spot on there Joe, nothing better then the feeling of having done it ureself.

Plus u learn about ure car and with the money u save u can afford to get REALLY smashed (afterward of course, not a good idea to work on the car while drunk as things can be broken):P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5984-car-servicing/#findComment-90539
Share on other sites

After a few years of watching everything from the good 'ol oil change to suspension work and brake replacement and a total engine/gearbox conversion I have got to say most things can be handled yourself. However it can be pretty intimidating the first time.

Basic servicing is probably best done by yourself, take Joe up on his offer after exams and learn to do the basics yourself.

Ryan.

P.S. And be thankful you dont have a GTR, getting at the oil filter requires the loss of copious amounts of skin :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5984-car-servicing/#findComment-90552
Share on other sites

For warranty service I go to marlows balcatta.

However, if its not a warranty job you should learn to service yourself.

Checking the plugs and timing and changing the oil and filter is childs play when you are shown how.

Unless you have an aftermarket ecu that requires re-tuning or some other serious performance upgrade, performance shops are money NOT well spent.

As for fault finding its always good to do as much of your own (with manual in hand) before handing it over to a mechanic, it can save you alot of $$$ and frustration when the mechanic fixes something that is minor.

Most of the complaints I hear about 'this workshop and that workshop' come from people who still are ignorant about how complex and time consuming it can be to find a simple fault with an engine. In the motor world murphys law rules.

And don't get me started on people with performance cars who expect nothing to ever go wrong once a mechanic has looked at their car.

Or blame the mechanic for their engine blowing up when they drive down the road saying " what's that rattling sound? I know I'll not only keep driving but I think I might floor it to see if it goes away"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5984-car-servicing/#findComment-90554
Share on other sites

Its the same in the Supra, u have to pull all kinds of stuff off just to get ure arm in there and even then u can only just get ure fingertips round it. A clamp is completely out of the question.

U think thats hard try gettin off the friggin fuel filter. i had my car out of action for a week due to that one. they hide it under the rear diff and its impossible to get off. Especially when the guy who changed it last crossthreaded it:mad: i was considering changing the fuel line all the way from the engine so i could just rip it out. Lucky the guy down in Myaree let me use his hoist or i would have never got it off. ahh bad memories but at least i know that that wasnt the problem in the first place:lol:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/5984-car-servicing/#findComment-90556
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
×
×
  • Create New...