Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

2 in and 4 out.

It flies now, it seems to have got rid of my flat spot around 5000rpm which is where the AFM was maxing out. Im very happy at the moment, stay tuned for some dyno numbers but going by feel, i can certainly feel the difference.

Once installed it ran lean as buggery, so i quickly added some fuel everywhere into it via the SAFC. So at the moment its had a quick road tune but its feeling very quick. I will have it on the dyno next week to accurately tune the A/F ratios.

Once installed it ran lean as buggery, so i quickly added some fuel everywhere into it via the SAFC.  So at the moment its had a quick road tune but its feeling very quick.  I will have it on the dyno next week to accurately tune the A/F ratios.

Ok cool, i mite take it with me to the dyno and swap it over so it gets tuned straight away.

The Z32 is larger in size to the standard one too isnt it? That means new pod filter aswell :cheers:

So 2in4out doesn't change the afm's voltage to what the stock item would have been?

Even though you did this it still needed more fuel to be put in?

How did you know it was running lean?

2in tells me is that the safc is receiving (voltage vs airflow) from (2) a Z32 AFM.

4out tells me that the safc is changing (voltage vs airflow) from (2) a Z32 AFM to (4) a RB20/25 AFM.

So theoretically if you select 2in4out you shouldn't have to change any fuel settings as it would be as if it is still running the RB afm (5v limit would still be at the same vs airflow).

I'm about to do this to a S15 (Z32 AFM).. The reason for all the questions. :rofl:

So 2in4out doesn't change the afm's voltage to what the stock item would have been?

Even though you did this it still needed more fuel to be put in?

How did you know it was running lean?

 

2in tells me is that the safc is receiving (voltage vs airflow) from (2) a Z32 AFM.

4out tells me that the safc is changing (voltage vs airflow) from (2) a Z32 AFM to (4) a RB20/25 AFM.

 

So theoretically if you select 2in4out you shouldn't have to change any fuel settings as it would be as if it is still running the RB afm (5v limit would still be at the same vs airflow).

 

I'm about to do this to a S15 (Z32 AFM).. The reason for all the questions. :rofl:

Its called pinging. Ive added some more fuel in and its not pinging any more. A dyno test should give me the correct answers.

So 2in4out doesn't change the afm's voltage to what the stock item would have been?

Even though you did this it still needed more fuel to be put in?

How did you know it was running lean?

 

2in tells me is that the safc is receiving (voltage vs airflow) from (2) a Z32 AFM.

4out tells me that the safc is changing (voltage vs airflow) from (2) a Z32 AFM to (4) a RB20/25 AFM.

 

So theoretically if you select 2in4out you shouldn't have to change any fuel settings as it would be as if it is still running the RB afm (5v limit would still be at the same vs airflow).

Yeh thats what i was thinking

so its the same physcial size as the rb25 afm? sweet :headspin:

Maybe as the standard AFM was maxing out, it wasn't getting the optimum tune at those rpms. Now with the AFM reading, the computer is giving me a decent tune, hence why the 5000rpm flat spot has gone. Im running a HKS 2530 and im seeing some strong results, though i reckon you would gain some benefits with the stock turbo.

Its called pinging. Ive added some more fuel in and its not pinging any more. A dyno test should give me the correct answers.
The Rb30DET in mine takes until around 13.5:1 before it starts pinging.

Even then at high rpm the knock sensor doesn't pick up pinging, only during lower/mid rev's.

A definate ping can be heard once is hits 14:1, then it fuel cuts.

What I'm getting at is pinging is the last thing you notice when it is leaning out.

Robo, You still didn't really answer my question.

So the AFM reading on the SAFC is definately reading lower with the 2in4out?

Before it may have been hitting say 100% at 5500rpm not it is maybe 80%?!?!?

 

Robo, You still didn't really answer my question.

So the AFM reading on the SAFC is definately reading lower with the 2in4out?

 

Before it may have been hitting say 100% at 5500rpm not it is maybe 80%?!?!?

Just about to go for a test drive, i will let you know about the 100% flow.

Sometimes my SAFC changes to pressure and it takes some fiddling to get it too show Air Flow %.

Just about to go for a test drive, i will let you know about the 100% flow.

Sometimes my SAFC changes to pressure and it takes some fiddling to get it too show Air Flow %.

I really am interested if the safc changes the voltage back to std as it may be quite a bit of a pain in the arse if I fit it to the s15 then find out i can't drive it.

Especially considering the s15 has a 45mm little hole for the afm. :rofl:

It may throw it out quite a lot more.. BUT if the safc does the adjustment and returns the voltage back to normal then it may be ok.

I really am interested if the safc changes the voltage back to std as it may be quite a bit of a pain in the arse if I fit it to the s15 then find out i can't drive it.

 

Especially considering the s15 has a 45mm little hole for the afm. :rofl:

It may throw it out quite a lot more.. BUT if the safc does the adjustment and returns the voltage back to normal then it may be ok.

The settings for a S15 is In 05 and out 05. When connecting a Z32 too it, the settings will be IN 02 and out 05.

Car is running very strong. Im running around 17psi with the HKS 2530, SAFC2 and Z32. I have seen a little more on cold nights.

My dyno man is currently getting his dyno recalibrated so hopefully this week i will be able to fine tune the mixtures and maybe see how much boost it can handle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm hoping I just don't have to do an engine rebuild NOW. Doesn't mean I won't do it at some point. I think a plus point is that the car presumably ran on or close to stock power nearly all it's life so far. Only the Owner I bought it from actually increased power with a standalone ECU and blew the OEM turbos. And after it got thee 2860s it wasn't driven an awful lot either.   That is what I meant. With the twins coming on so late (4500-5000rpm) I hope the rods won't want to exit the block prematurely. And it still being a 26 means the torque curve isn't gonna hike up all that much.   It didn't blow up on the dyno when they tuned it to 500ish crank. So I suppose it'll be okay for now. They did put a Tomei head gasket on first though which did not seal at all, and they redid it with a Cometic one. Which I hope won't be my water leak.   Mainly anything oil. So far all it has is the N1 pump, oil restrictor and a filter relocation kit with a cooler.
    • 15000? ish? Something like that anyway. It wasn;t so much a wear as a tear that then spread. Might have lasted a lot longer if not bothered by just one incident, whatever it was. I took a punt. They are really comfortable and do a good job of holding. My daughter HATED it when I first put them in, and probably still does now. She has sensory issues and hates the way they are all up your business. I'm 197cm and 95kg. Not fat or particularly wide, and the XL size seat is the rigth fit. If I was any fatter it would start to get too snug. Any skinnier and you'd possibly want the smaller width.
    • Mrs rs focus came factory with recaro cs  sportsters in it and they a pain in the ass to get in and out of with the really high bolsters, once you were in them they were one of the most comfortable seats I have ever sat in
    • The NA 2.5 has very little torque. You won't feel much. Those trannies are also a million years old now and it could well be f**ked. First generation electronically controlled autos will often refuse to kick down, ete, etc, depending on what's wrong with them.
    • Yes, but no but yes but no. Those "it's fine up to 500HP" rules and everything else like it were all determined back when the cars were 10 years old. As they are now 30 years old.....what do you reckon the chances of something shitting the bed are? I'd say they are much higher now than they used to be. You might be lucky. You might be unlucky. Spin the wheel and find out. Yeah, nah. It's actually exactly the opposite. Making boost early and having heaps of torque able to be generated right in the middle of the rev range will do more to damage an engine than having to rev it high to make the power. Think about the load on the conrods, bearings, etc, to make 400HP at 4000 rpm, vs 400 HP at 6500 rpm. So someone has already "let the Nissan out" which is how we describe the increased chance of a fiddled with engine to have had something done wrongly. Many more engines that have been opened die than stock ones do - even if you into consideration how they are treated wrt power levels and the like. Again, not saying that yours will definitely have been put back together by a moron. But the possibility does exist. It's still a lottery. Spin the wheel. What weakspots?
×
×
  • Create New...