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Hi all,

well overheat or heating issue shouln't have happen but last night my GTR heat up a bit, spit coolant out....

Took a look this morning and found that my coolant is so dirty, i will give it a FLUSH but i've notice that the Aircon fan MEANT to WORK as a secondary/back up fan when things heat up ( Well that what i've found on my old 33 ) but my didn't kick in last night .

So, i'll get Nissan dealer ( Ferntry Gully one ) to have a look but i would like to find out anyone here runs THERMAL FAN on their GTRs? If you do, how did it go? What sensor do you use....ect..? :headspin:

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oh by the way....i have a set of fans from a EL falcon fitted.....i wired them up through a VDO sensor that is adjustable and it piggy backs on the sender so no extra probes need to be fitted....however the fan is on for the first minute or so when the vehicle is stone cold...this is because the sender is out of the range that the sensor can see....but after a minute it comes online....

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the fan is supposed to work when you got the aircon on only......make sure your clutch fan is working correctly and the coolant system has been bled correctly

Bled properly!! How and what need to be done? Do i need to give it to a radiator place to get this pressurise whatever they reckon that will flush everything out ? Clutch fan seem to be fine.

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oh by the way....i have a set of fans from a EL falcon fitted.....i wired them up through a VDO sensor that is adjustable and it piggy backs on the sender so no extra probes need to be fitted....however the fan is on for the first minute or so when the vehicle is stone cold...this is because the sender is out of the range that the sensor can see....but after a minute it comes online....

So the fan dont' kick in until a minute after you start the car? That should be fine anyway shouln't it? I don't really want to get rid of the clutch fan until i have no other option.

Does your thermal fan draw alot of power when they kick in?

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Actually the fan is switched on by a coolant temp sensor in the bottom tank of the radiator on R32 GTR's - mine has it.

So when you switch the A/C on does it fire up?

west------>however the fan is on for the first minute or so when the vehicle is stone cold...this is because the sender is out of the range that the sensor can see....but after a minute it comes online....and the fan switchs off

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Ok did a little test today....bypass this plug by puting a current through the FAN came on..

So the fan came on with the two terminals shorted (joined) in the green connector shown in that photo ?? If so, then problem is with the thermoswitch in the bottom of the radiator.

But I'd recommend get your entire cooling system checked out.

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...so i assume that this plug here, which plug into the radiator stuff itself up therefor there were no signal/current sends to the condensor fan .....

What you guys think? I'll order a new one from Nissan?

Before you order a new one you can check out the old one if you have access to an ohm meter. With it out of the car as shown, the resistance across its terminals should be infinate at anything less than about 90C. Next thing to do is to chuck it in some boiling water (eg pan on a stove), let it sit for a minute to reach temp and then quickly take it out and measure the resistance of the terminals before the temp drops. Resistance should be zero or nearly so. If not, it's stuffed. If it checks out OK with this test, it's time to look at the wiring (corrosion, etc).

Of course don't burn yourself in the process :cheers:

Oh and if you don't have an ohm/volt meter I'd recommend getting one as they are'nt expensive and are a very useful tool.

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Before you order a new one you can check out the old one if you have access to an ohm meter.   With it out of the car as shown, the resistance across its terminals should be infinate at anything less than about 90C.   Next thing to do is to chuck it in some boiling water (eg pan on a stove), let it sit for a minute to reach temp and then quickly take it out and measure the resistance of the terminals before the temp drops.  Resistance should be zero or nearly so.   If not, it's stuffed.  If it checks out OK with this test, it's time to look at the wiring (corrosion, etc).

Of course don't burn yourself in the process :)

Oh and if you don't have an ohm/volt meter I'd recommend getting one as they are'nt expensive and are a very useful tool.

Ok thank heaps Steve, sound a bit technical as i don't have a ohm meter so i might get an electrical cleaner spray to clean out all the corrosion tomorrow .

If it still doesn't work by then i'll book it in for a radiator flush also order a new thermal switch or just give it to Nissan get the whole thing check out. :cheers:

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