Jump to content
SAU Community

GTR heat issue!!!!

West

By West,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

West Grand Master

West

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

well overheat or heating issue shouln't have happen but last night my GTR heat up a bit, spit coolant out....

Took a look this morning and found that my coolant is so dirty, i will give it a FLUSH but i've notice that the Aircon fan MEANT to WORK as a secondary/back up fan when things heat up ( Well that what i've found on my old 33 ) but my didn't kick in last night .

So, i'll get Nissan dealer ( Ferntry Gully one ) to have a look but i would like to find out anyone here runs THERMAL FAN on their GTRs? If you do, how did it go? What sensor do you use....ect..? :headspin:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/
Share on other sites
ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted

oh by the way....i have a set of fans from a EL falcon fitted.....i wired them up through a VDO sensor that is adjustable and it piggy backs on the sender so no extra probes need to be fitted....however the fan is on for the first minute or so when the vehicle is stone cold...this is because the sender is out of the range that the sensor can see....but after a minute it comes online....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/#findComment-1142143
Share on other sites
West Grand Master

West

Posted
  • Author
Posted
the fan is supposed to work when you got the aircon on only......make sure your clutch fan is working correctly and the coolant system has been bled correctly

Bled properly!! How and what need to be done? Do i need to give it to a radiator place to get this pressurise whatever they reckon that will flush everything out ? Clutch fan seem to be fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/#findComment-1142144
Share on other sites
West Grand Master

West

Posted
  • Author
Posted
oh by the way....i have a set of fans from a EL falcon fitted.....i wired them up through a VDO sensor that is adjustable and it piggy backs on the sender so no extra probes need to be fitted....however the fan is on for the first minute or so when the vehicle is stone cold...this is because the sender is out of the range that the sensor can see....but after a minute it comes online....

So the fan dont' kick in until a minute after you start the car? That should be fine anyway shouln't it? I don't really want to get rid of the clutch fan until i have no other option.

Does your thermal fan draw alot of power when they kick in?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/#findComment-1142149
Share on other sites
ylwgtr2 Grand Master

ylwgtr2

Posted
Posted
Actually the fan is switched on by a coolant temp sensor in the bottom tank of the radiator on R32 GTR's - mine has it.

So when you switch the A/C on does it fire up?

west------>however the fan is on for the first minute or so when the vehicle is stone cold...this is because the sender is out of the range that the sensor can see....but after a minute it comes online....and the fan switchs off

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/#findComment-1142171
Share on other sites
SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
Ok did a little test today....bypass this plug by puting a current through the FAN came on..

So the fan came on with the two terminals shorted (joined) in the green connector shown in that photo ?? If so, then problem is with the thermoswitch in the bottom of the radiator.

But I'd recommend get your entire cooling system checked out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/#findComment-1142427
Share on other sites
SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
...so i assume that this plug here, which plug into the radiator stuff itself up therefor there were no signal/current sends to the condensor fan .....

What you guys think? I'll order a new one from Nissan?

Before you order a new one you can check out the old one if you have access to an ohm meter. With it out of the car as shown, the resistance across its terminals should be infinate at anything less than about 90C. Next thing to do is to chuck it in some boiling water (eg pan on a stove), let it sit for a minute to reach temp and then quickly take it out and measure the resistance of the terminals before the temp drops. Resistance should be zero or nearly so. If not, it's stuffed. If it checks out OK with this test, it's time to look at the wiring (corrosion, etc).

Of course don't burn yourself in the process :cheers:

Oh and if you don't have an ohm/volt meter I'd recommend getting one as they are'nt expensive and are a very useful tool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/#findComment-1142434
Share on other sites
West Grand Master

West

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Before you order a new one you can check out the old one if you have access to an ohm meter.   With it out of the car as shown, the resistance across its terminals should be infinate at anything less than about 90C.   Next thing to do is to chuck it in some boiling water (eg pan on a stove), let it sit for a minute to reach temp and then quickly take it out and measure the resistance of the terminals before the temp drops.  Resistance should be zero or nearly so.   If not, it's stuffed.  If it checks out OK with this test, it's time to look at the wiring (corrosion, etc).

Of course don't burn yourself in the process :)

Oh and if you don't have an ohm/volt meter I'd recommend getting one as they are'nt expensive and are a very useful tool.

Ok thank heaps Steve, sound a bit technical as i don't have a ohm meter so i might get an electrical cleaner spray to clean out all the corrosion tomorrow .

If it still doesn't work by then i'll book it in for a radiator flush also order a new thermal switch or just give it to Nissan get the whole thing check out. :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60019-gtr-heat-issue/#findComment-1142441
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      Tyres you use(d) and how u would rate them

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Done about 5k Km on the PS5's now, excellent street tyres, great in the dry, and the wet, seem to be wearing very well, I haven't measured tread depth, but it looks like minimal wear, I also had a different alignment done about 1500km ago,  From looking at the tread wear, which is really only minimal, the alignment changes were based off how the tread looked, and how it felt throwing it around, the changes have shown great results 215/45 17 at 32 psi Front Caster: 5.5° Camber: -1.5° Toe: 0.0mm Rear Camber: -1.0° Total Toe-in: 1.5mm I actually prefer PS5's now over the RS4's, as the PS5's are much better in the wet IMO, and as the MX5 gets driven in all weather conditions doing daily duties, hwy trips, and blasts in the mountains, wet weather grip is high on my priority list
    • Russell2208
      Attesa ETS Pro Install on R33 GTR

      By Russell2208 · Posted

      To update this thread. I got sent a replacement Attesa pro unit and all is now working as expected. Cheers
    • Ozdavroz
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By Ozdavroz · Posted

      FD is so sexy she can pull off tri-spokes
    • Butters
      Front LSD Quaife , how streetable ?- QDF3L Owners

      By Butters · Posted

      Indeed they do. Best my diff builder could tell is it's a combination of the different cut/angle and it would seem they lap them in well on accell but less so on decel. He had to use a slightly different pattern to the lap to get the best result noise wise. Also as the rear diff runs in, the whine is getting less.        Overall they seem like a good thing so far. He's done a few neat crown/pinion before but all for race cars with loud everything, in most cases the exhaust is louder, so I am the first to notice.... and be somewhat of a pain   
    • GTSBoy
      R34 4 door indicator and horn issue

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What do you mean by "test"? It sounds like you're just switching things on and off that you already know don't work. Get the wiring diagram and a multimeter and start looking for power where there is supposed to be power and earth where there is supposed to be earth. Look for continuity across switches that are otherwise unresponsive, etc etc.
×
×
  • Create New...