Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it also has bigger brakes, and i think it's got digital climate control,and it has an adjustable front spoiler. there have been a few threads on this, but no-one has a definant answer.

hard to tell, coz a lot of the stuff that was standard on the type m you could get as an option on the non-type-m

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1142308
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Nissan Skyline GT-R V-spec II R34

The GT-R V Spec II has the ATESSA E-TS PRO four-wheel drive system which integrates with the LSD, giving the computer control of side-to-side torque distribution as well as front to rear. This offers improved traction. Underneath the V Spec II, Nissan have fitted front and rear diffusers which work together to smooth airflow under the car, reducing lift and creating down-force. The rear diffuser is made of carbon-fibre and features a NACA duct to direct cooling air to the rear differential. The V Spec II also has a different 2-step tachometer which has finer graduations above 3,000rpm for more accurate readings.

Nissan Skyline GT-R V-spec II N1 R34

The GT-R V Spec II N1 is designed to be the basis of racing GT-Rs. It features different turbo chargers using metal rotors instead of ceramic, an engine oil cooler and larger diameter rear brakes. To save weight some items are removed including the rear wiper, rear fog lamps, the remote control entry system, air conditioning and the audio system (although the antenna and wiring harness remain). The centre console lid and parking brake lever are now trimmed in plastic rather than leather and the external mirrors are painted black. The N1 is only available in white with an unpainted lightweight carbon-fibre bonnet.

Nissan Skyline GT-R M-spec R34

Released in 2001, the M Spec is similar in specification to the V Spec II but with a few differences. These are mainly inside the cabin where the M Spec has a leather covered steering wheel and gear knob with gold stitching and heated leather seats. Other changes include an aluminium bonnet and revised suspension tuning. Like the V Spec II, the M Spec has the ATTESA E-TS PRO four wheel drive system, underbody aero package and a 2-step tachometer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1158724
Share on other sites

There was also R33 GTS Type G and Type X.

The Type G and Type X R33 had an RB20E Motor.

The Type S has an RB25E Motor.

The differences from a standard R33 GTS25t to a R33 GTS25t Type M were the Front bar and Side Skirts. There was no MSpec, MSpec was in the R34 Skyline model. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1158735
Share on other sites

I'm sure I read somewhere on here that all GTS25t's were type M. The type M just denoted it was a turbo car. If you do a search, you'll find a lot of debate on whether there was a type-M and what extra features you got. All I know is mine has digital climate control, the lower front bar and viscous LSD.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1159351
Share on other sites

Type M is a "Sports package" its basically just a car with a whole bunch of options as standard. Like "Sportivo" for Corolla.

GTSes got Type S

GTSt's got Type M

GTE's and sedans got Type G, J and X

The options given as standard varied from financial year to year, as seen in the catalogues. The few options that were offered thruout the run were Sports bodykits, sports spoilers, upgraded interior trim, Viscous LSD (or Active LSD), HICAS, and sports suspension.

Keep in mind there are regular factory cars which can have these options added to them which make them similar spec. Also you can add MORE options to the Type M package, like cup holders, sunroof, EL lightup panels, gold badges, glovebox refrigerators etc.

M-Spec however is totally different, there's an LM Spec as well in R33's, the commemoratory LeMans blue editions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1162271
Share on other sites

Funky, you seem to know alot about the extras you could get. Would you happen to know what the black box thing on the back shelf labeled "Puretron" is? Guesses so far are a de-ionizer or an air purefier of some kind.... thats my "warp engine" mentioned above... no one else i've spoken to has one.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1163261
Share on other sites

When I first got my car, it had a rotating inlay on the indicator stalk, similar to the intermittent wiper 'rotating bit' on the wiper stalk. The one I'm refering to was like the indicator stalk was wearing a ring with 2 positions. I assume it was a Fog-light switch but I'm not too sure because it came with a non-standard bar and I have since replaced the whole stalk assembly (it just started to click and short out one day) to another set that was identical but without the fog-light thingy.

When I looked at another mates r33 gts-t he had the standard bar with the foggies, but when I looked closer I noticed that there was only a reflector behind the glass, and no bulbs. He didnt have the fog-light ring thing on his stalk :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1171374
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hmm basically, all GTSt's and GTS25t's are Type-M, all GTS, GTS25 etc are Type-S.

Type-M denotes that the car is a turbo, Type-S that it is a non-turbo. Other extras may come with the Type-M (not sure) but I know for a fact that non-turbos are Type-S and turbos are Type-M.

Possibly the 'M' stands for 'Massive insurance' and the 'S' stands for 'Secondrate', not sure :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60028-m-spec/#findComment-1247368
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...