Jump to content
SAU Community

r33 fronts

AR93NT

By AR93NT,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

wolverine Grand Master

wolverine

Posted
Posted

right side: there are three screws on the door trim that need to be removed along the bottom edge of the door.

there is a screw in the recess of the door handle.

the surround of the door handle has to be levered out gently with a small screwdriver (insert about 1/3 along the top edge and very delicately lever the handle of the screwdriver up) the surround will release from the front first and lastly to the back.

gently lever up the window/locking surround with a small screwdriver. (there is a small clip that lifts pretty much straight up in the middle but mine was quite rusted and wasn't holding it). unclip the wiring loom.

lift the door trim from the bottom up and it should unclip ok.

left foor is nearly the same but there are two hidden screws (from memory) holding this trim.

follow same procedure for the right door with the three screws on the bottom edge of the door and the door handle.

lever the window switch surround with small screwdriver gently till it pops out. unclip the loom to the switch. this should reveal the first hidden screw.

look under the arm/handrest and there is another small plastic cover, same goes with levering this off, there is a screw in there to be undone.

the trim should lift off from the bottom up now.

the bonus section: i found it helpful to buy some panel clips from an automotive store to replace any damaged clips (of which there were a few on my car). i also would take the time to buy sound deadening from someone like FHRX studios and sound deaden your doors while you are at it. this is the cheapest and best modification you can make to improve your sound system. (serenity max is approx $110-120 to do both doors). while the trim is off you are crazy to miss this.

this should get you to the speakers.

i hope i have everything covered up to there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60062-r33-fronts/#findComment-1142941
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • WMDC35
      Tomei gasket

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      Are you sure the gasket is blown? What are the issues? Thermocure is the only flush I've seen do anything with rust, very impressed with that, Prestone, rust will be by the pool having a cigarette.  
    • MBS206
      Tomei gasket

      By MBS206 · Posted

      And since the flush you have a blown head gasket? Have you lifted the head off yet?
    • GTSBoy
      Hr34 fuel pump not turning on

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The answer is to get a hold of the wiring diagram, work out what voltage is supposed to be where, when, and then work out why it is not there, then. I can't speak to the HR34 stuff, because I have never paid any attention to the NAs. There is a possibility that the turbo diagram will help, but it could also be different - depending on whether there is an FPCM on the NAs.
    • Trinicandian
      Hr34 fuel pump not turning on

      By Trinicandian · Posted

      Hey guys. New here. I am having an issue with my hr34. The fuel pump isn't turning on. I removed it from the tank. Bench test it. Wasn't working. Order new one and installed it today. Still not turning on. Checked the relay. Relay has voltage on the contact side. I jumped it and it tuned the pump on. Which lead me to checked the coil voltage.  Turned on the ignition and had my meter across the coil and there wasn't any dc voltage. Had my meter lead on the positive and I used the frame ground and noticed there was 12 volts. Which lead me to believe the relay isn't getting a negative signal. I traced the wire ( black with pink strip).it goes back to the bottom on the steering and it gets lost into the harness.   I checked at the ecm and I can't seem to find that wire color.   My question if any one knows is. Can I not just run the negative through a ignition relay to turn on the fuel pump relay?. Or anyone ever had this issue and if so how did u go about fixing it.    
    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      So many people don't notice it, as batteries decay slowly over time. Two big reasons people end up noticing and needing to replace batteries: 1) The cold weather. The cold not only makes it harder to turn the engine for a few reasons, but it also increases the batteries internal resistance. So this means you need MORE power to turn a colder engine, AND the battery has a lower limit on how much current it can provide. 2) Something gets modified/altered/added in the wiring, typically an aftermarket accessory, like a dash camera, or an alarm etc, and this adds a small amount extra onto the battery, and pushes it over the edge in its failing days. But if you hadn't have read this thread, and just pushed through, chances are you might have made it through this winter, just. But come next winter, it would have been kapoot. But the fact you changed it out now, means you've instantly noticed how much nicer it is for starting, and will be less worry for you that the engine won't start now.
×
×
  • Create New...