Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I was just wondering if the process to change the Timing Belt in a R33 Skyline Series II is complex?

Where can I buy this timing belt from? I've got a mate who probably can do it but I dont want to ask him if it's going to be a lengthy task.

Also, what price should I be looking at if I was to get this done via a workshop/mechanic? Any suggestions on where to get it done (ultratune?)

Lastly any suggestions on what should be replaced so that it will save me Labour cost in the future (eg. water pump?)

Any help would be great. Thanks.

Regards

Steve

Also get the idler and adjuster bearing sets. There is a thread on these in the forum but if they go, then the engine goes. Mine had done 120000km and were pretty ordinary. About $120 for the NSK set. Use the search feature. Also might be worth changing the guide plates @ about $10 for the pair and the woodruff keys if they look a little worn for a couple of bucks, both from nissan. Ring NSK direct for a local supplier but don't use nissan for the bearings as they will ask for your first born and 2 fingers :D

also get the waterpump checked while they are in there. It will save you a couple of hours labour in case if it craps itself only a few thousand kms later and all the same stuff has to be pulled out to get at it again.

Have done the job in about 5 hrs with a mate (including farting about) the timing belt got from nissan the idler and tensioner bearing after market (got sell a kidney if you want nissan items) the cam and crank seals are all the same can get them from ACL changed water pump while was there saves headache later on careful pulling of the balancer it will be tight but does come off make sure to mark the sensor on the cam and when you take the front part of the vvt unit off on the inlet some oil will come out and its spring loaded dont loose the bolts

Hi,

I was just wondering if the process to change the Timing Belt in a R33 Skyline Series II is complex?  

Where can I buy this timing belt from? I've got a mate who probably can do it but I dont want to ask him if it's going to be a lengthy task.

Also, what price should I be looking at if I was to get this done via a workshop/mechanic? Any suggestions on where to get it done (ultratune?)

Lastly any suggestions on what should be replaced so that it will save me Labour cost in the future (eg. water pump?)

Any help would be great. Thanks.

Regards

Steve

When doing a timing belt replacement, its good practice to replace the water pump, and the idler bearing & tensioner bearing, and fan belts, eg power steering, alternator, so on. As it’s much easier to do it now once it’s apart, especially water pump. Because you could get the timing belt changed and your water pump could die in one month’s time.

And then it’s back into the garage pulling everything off again.

Idler and tensioner bearings you can get at any bearing place (Alard Bearings), Cost any where from $60 on wards. And as for the timing belt just go genuine, cost should be around $100 for a timing belt.

The biggest cost would be labor, as it’s a time consuming process. And that really depends on what your mechanic charges.

Hope that helps.

Steve the part numbers are PBT15 $40.00 and 56TB2801B01 $64.00 and the brand is called PART TECH if you take the numbers to a bearing place like CBC bearings etc.. they should be able to match them up the place i got them from is Mekong Spare Parts 9724 0691 if you any problems let me know

out of interest, has anyone seen a water pump fail on an rb? at how many klm?

I changed mine as well, but was just thinking, of all these threads on SAU I've never heard of a dead water pump ?

didnt you guys see the post were the dudes waterpumped housing sheared in half and threw the fan blade into the radiator, he reckond the belt was done up too tight or there was a stress fracture, it was nasty

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cam I am actually putting in (a few posts up) is actually smaller than my current one. At least duration/overlap wise. All the chop stuff I hear just sounds like an engine running badly, because it is. I then envision driving it around in 1st gear and being massively sad about it bucking to the beat of said chop. There is an idle video of someone with a similar cam floating around the internet, but mine is a custom cam (so is his) so it'll never be the same, plus the fact exhausts are entirely different. What I want to do is put some bullet mufflers/race mufflers in to replace a couple sections straight pipes that currently replace the two extra cats that I don't need. But this is even further down the line!
    • I can tell you now, when the bracket that the little hydraulic ram attaches to snaps, with a subframe, and V8 from an AMG C63 on it, it sounds like someone letting shotgun off right beside you. It leaves your ears ringing, and a huge thankfulness that you never ever put a body part under something heavy that's only supported by a hydraulic lift...
    • Still not a guarantee fix. I used a high quality butyl-mastiq (the black goo that's not really silicone nor polyurethane, same stuff they use from the factory that just spreads out like melty cheese), and I still get lots of water on both sides of the trunk when raining or washing the car. I also suspect the factory spoiler rubber gasket might not be sealing well, so I'm thinking of adding a thin layer of grey silicone around the bolt holes on both sides and see if that's where it also leaks from. The biggest issue is that these cars don't come with a drain hole on each side like other coupes and hatchbacks.
    • I hate it, but maybe he could paint it Monster jam style and call it...godzilla?
    • Would seem to me to be appropriate to go GTR style bar. There are options with and without N1 vent holes, with the GTR lower lip integral (because FG copy). https://justjap.com/search?q=r32 bumper  
×
×
  • Create New...