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Originally posted by adam 32

micko good call :(  

rob enough is enough. if you think you can run a 13 then go do it. dont drag is through every mundane detial in a hope to get into some petty argument about running a 13second pass with 180rwhp

Ok , I think we can leave the arguments aside now and perhaps look at the more productive and interesting questions like :

How to run a 13 with less than 200rwhp.

And

How to get a quicker launch and 60ft time in your skyline on race day.

:(

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Originally posted by adam 32

one question i want to ask is does a burnout help when your tryin to launch on street tyres (say theyve been let down to 20-25psi) ??

Yes it can help but not if you keep melting the tyres in a brake burnout demo. Lots of street compounds get 'slippery' after being melted like that, also as you heat up the tyre the air expands inside and exerts more pressure

The trick is to let it rip without applying the brake and keep the shtick up until it starts to bite then back off. With mine I start axle hopping.

20psi is good on most tyres, 18psi is better but, if you do burnouts on them and launch frequently, the poor old side walls will never be the same again, they might even 'egg' on you one day. Most street use tyres don't have intentional sidewall flex built into their design.

Originally posted by adam 32

so u reckon just a 5000rpm clutch dump in the water?

If that is what it takes to launch well for you I'd say why not. In my case 3500rpm a throttle fed clutch dump is what I used (when my clutch felt like it). If you can replicate the launch technique all the better. I guess you don't want to back off because it's spinning too much but rather because you got traction and are heading towards the end of the staging lane line.

What I mean by 'throttle fed' is not mashed straight flat to the floor but a quick smooth action. Mashing the throttle will get your wheelspin but you get traction only because you back off, you will have no idea if the tyres are warm enough or too warm until you hit real thing and find out the hard way.

Ok ok my turn i couldnt wait till the end of this post so i could talk haha

Rob You sound as if u are doint the right things its just a matter of time altho i personally think that anything under 13.9 is just silly, because u dont have the top speed yet!

And dont run 1 bar

I personally have a suspension problem at the drags and cant better 2.5 60ft time apart from the fact i usually blow something up! :)

Rev210 Ben is right with the intercooler being just as much a problem as the turbo. Do you think at 1bar there is no drop in pressure over that tiny intercooler? Apparently 6psi with 15@plenum chamber. Thats a nice 21 psi thank you very much quoted in and old zoom mag issue. Thats busting your turbos ass...put a FMIC on and pressure drop is less..

Dont worry about adam32 hes just jealous that he cant get in the 13s either :lol: :lol:

Originally posted by macka

Rev210 Ben is right with the intercooler being just as much a problem as the turbo. Do you think at 1bar there is no drop in pressure over that tiny intercooler? Apparently 6psi with 15@plenum chamber. Thats a nice 21 psi thank you very much quoted in and old zoom mag issue. Thats busting your turbos ass...put a FMIC on and pressure drop is less..

Does that mean with a nice flowing intercooler you can run 16psi at the plenum without a care, assuming a 1 psi pressure drop at the cooler?

A plenum 12psi on the stock cooler would be about 18psi at the turbo I'm assuming. Making the stock wheel able to handle an 18psi load safely but not higher.

If you want to run 17 psi thru your ceramic turbine wheel you can yes

I wouldnt recomend it!

Pressure drop over your standard cooler is pretty much logarithmic

Its designed to flow 6.8psi (say 1psi drop)

12psi it may have only a couple of psi drop.

The cfm (flow) of the turbo @15psi or thereabouts is like trying to squeeze a 1Jz Supra engine into a corolla

Im not speaking out of my ass I know guys who have run 12 to 15 psi and they are lucky to some point but then again DRIFTR33 Blew his turbine at a mere 9psi and wassabi hehe he just cranked her up till she rattled

Do your cooler first and you can make your turbo last longer@12psi i wished now that i had done that mine blew at 13.5psi but not only did it blow it tore the shaft off turbine went out exhaust and compressor wheel went into cooler ie engine (Bang)

Originally posted by macka

If you want to run 17 psi thru your ceramic turbine wheel you can yes

I wouldnt recomend it!

Pressure drop over your standard cooler is pretty much logarithmic

Its designed to flow 6.8psi (say 1psi drop)

12psi it may  have only a couple of psi drop.

The cfm (flow) of the turbo @15psi or thereabouts is like trying to squeeze a 1Jz Supra engine into a corolla

Im not speaking out of my ass I know guys who have run 12 to 15 psi and they are lucky to some point but then again DRIFTR33 Blew his turbine at a mere 9psi and wassabi hehe he just cranked her up till she rattled

Do your cooler first and you can make your turbo last longer@12psi i wished now that i had done that mine blew at 13.5psi but not only did it blow it tore the shaft off turbine went out exhaust and compressor wheel went into cooler ie engine (Bang)

I know what you are talking about with the stock turbo's love for blowing up at higher boost. It's interesting to consider the pressure at the turbine as opposed to the plenum.

I don't think I'd buy an aftermarket intercooler first myself (call me weird). I would go change the turbo, the intercooler change doesnt add power with the stock turbo running 10psi. And with the stockie ready to let go at greater boost pressure, the new ic would just add the temptation to do naughty boost increases.

Its six of one and half a dozen of another all the same.

Originally posted by rev210

I don't think I'd buy an aftermarket intercooler first myself (call me weird). I would go change the turbo, the intercooler change doesnt add power with the stock turbo running 10psi.

Your wierd :) If all you want is a drag queen, then I guess going for a turbo first *might* be ok. But from all reports, a decent intercooler gives far greater throttle response (even with extra piping) on stock or near stock boost.

I understand what your saying about keeping the turbo alive. All you need to do is practice a bit of self control. Set it to 12psi (more than safe with a 'cooler) and leave it there :)

Dave

If you're interested I could help you get a cheap home made cooler from a guy I know and trust.

It wouldn't be a thing of beauty but hey it would work.

He'll be making some soon but not right now.

Cheers

Chris

Originally posted by rev210

I know what you are talking about with the stock turbo's love for blowing up at higher boost. It's interesting to consider the pressure at the turbine as opposed to the plenum.  

I don't think I'd buy an aftermarket intercooler first myself (call me weird). I would go change the turbo, the intercooler change doesnt add power with the stock turbo running 10psi. And with the stockie ready to let go at greater boost pressure, the new ic would just add the temptation to do naughty boost increases.

Its six of one and half a dozen of another all the same.

Oh yeah i forgot you run a refrigerated intercooler I guess you wouldnt need to change it then :lol: :shake:

Originally posted by R34

Dave

If you're interested I could help you get a cheap home made cooler from a guy I know and trust.

It wouldn't be a thing of beauty but hey it would work.

He'll be making some soon but not right now.

Cheers

Chris

Sounds groovy. Keep us informed buddy.:D

Originally posted by macka

Oh yeah i forgot you run a refrigerated intercooler I guess you wouldnt need to change it then :lol: :shake:

The 'westinghouse' is not any real use when the boost is on, its more for a quick cool down before you plant it again. Or for a temp drop when driving along normally (off boost) for extra response and fuel ecconomy perhaps.

At least the front mount looks better than my ugly looking stockie with wires hanging off, normally its hidden but I have long since removed the inner left wheel dust guard to allow better airflow a tip worth considering if you are stuck with the stock cooler.

Originally posted by adam 32

your not that guy whos mate apparently ran a 12.6 in a zed with filter, exhaust and boost are ya? ive already argued that one to death

i swear your drag strips must run downhill

Well Said Adam,

Sorry mate but i have seen quarter mile times released from Nissan Itself talking in the vacinities of low 14 sec for the stock 300zx.

This aint the realease from Nissan itself but the quarter mile times on the site are quite accurate. PLease select link then go to specs: www.envyimports.com.au

From this list which does seem to be quite accurate S15 standard seems to do 13.8 quarter mile. However if you are the guy that was telling everyone that 300zx's do 12.6 standard well you might want to stop using the APEX RSM while somehow driving down mount Koziosco! (spelling? but you get the idea!)

go the cooler

ive noticed no side affects as some said the big cooler would cause.

my car ran its fastest time on weds with more wheel spin than before.

talk to mr mayhem bout coolers and availablity.

why dont you look into a VL turbo conversion for your standard ones

they are a plain bearing type but no ceramic ex wheel.

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