question for the home mechanic

[madmoomoo]

Thanks for your little guide blacky! just what I need. Which calliper do you start with? I think I remember reading somewhere that you start with the furthest and move closer, or was it the other way around?

Oh, I've got some more questions for you very knowledgable lads and lassies...

1) Is it worthwhile changing over to braided brake lines? I'm assuming that if I am going to change, it would be an idea to do it at the same time? Or would that be kinda messy? Has anyone had experience with the braided stuff?

2) With the brake pads... front vs rear and changing them.. I'm assuming from the feedback that I just look at the pads independantly and change front/rear when they're worn. How much should be left on a pad before it is changed, or how can I tell when it needs to be changed over? (I presume you'd change when X mm left...?).

3) How do you test if the O2 sensor is gone or going? Can i hook up a multimeter and test something? This is something that I really want to sort out, coz i'm one of these people that are having some dodgy fuel consumption issues. (i've discovered I'm really not alone with that issue, judging by other people stories on these threads!!). Yup, this little broom broom of mine is a bit thirsty, so I need to work out what's making her drink so much!

Thanks for all help, I love these forums!

[Duncan]

Yes you should start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder first, so rear right first.

1) dunno

2) yes just look at front and rear independantly. Also consider machining your disks at the same time if you think they might be warped (shuddering under brakes)

3) dunno

[blacky]

No worries Moo, nothing worse than no one helping you out when you need it!

as for your q's,

1) If you have the money and inclination to get braided lines, go for it. People who dont use them for looks know that they are far less prone to ballooning and expansion, so not only is it safer but you also *can* get a nice solid feel. Just try and make sure you get ADR approved ones.

2) I never knew people changed em! Suppose if theyre identical its a great idea!

3) I used to have major fuel issues with the old vl. Spent alot of time on the oxy sensors, and its a very good idea to replace them if theyre shagged. As for finding out if it is or not, the workshop manual isnt very helpful, says you need the consult system. But from my basic knowledge the voltage on the signal wire should be bouncing from 0-1v if its working. Maybe try backprobing it to check? Just my thoughts

blacky

[madmoomoo]

Ok, so start with furthest brake calliper then work in... got it...

With the braided brake lines, I have read that about the non ballooning/expanding, so I guess I couldn't go wrong by changing them over. It's something I want to learn how to do anyway, so at least it's another learning experience...

It looks like I'll have to keep doing research about the O2 sensor. I'll probe around and see if I can figure it out... Has anyone changed theirs over before, because I believe there's alternative replacement O2 sensors from ford that are way cheaper. Anybody been through that before?

[rd-runr]

Do a search on oxygen sensors and you should find a massive thread on this topic.

[Swordfish19792002]

good thread boys .....

[The Dan]

1:) brake bias is set to around 70% front 30% rear - is more like 85 - 15

2:) 7 - Crack the bleed open. Quickly pump the brake pedal a few times to get the old fluid flowing out - Not a good idea to pump the pedal quickly as you can draw the seal over the crap sitting in the cylinder which will tear the seal. Better to pump slowly and do only half pumps.

3:) This isnt the only or best way to do it - It is pretty much the best way to do it. (except for the quick pump thing)

4:) what grade of oil is best for the diff in a r33 gts? - Probably LSX90 or something equivalent. Maybe different though as it is a viscous LSD

5:) Yes you should start at the wheel furthest from the master cylinder first, so rear right first - This is not always the case. it depends on how the proportioning valve is set up. To acurately determine which one you have to trace each one back and do the longest line first, then next shortest and so on. Also some cars are set up left different system from right and some are set at diagonals.

6:) O2 sensor you can test with an oscilliscope

7:) Brake lines - where the join into a high pressure fitting, bend the line gently to check for cracks in the outer casing. If none throughout the whole line, no need to replace.

8:) Oil changes every 10 thou for a GTS, 5 thou for a Turbo model.

Spark plugs every 15 - 20 thou for standards or 100 thou for Platinums or Iridiums

Brake Fluid every 24 months regardless of kms.

Coolant every 24 months regardless of kms.

Diff oil every 50 thou.

G/Box oil every 50 thou.

Heater hoses and radiator hoses at 100 thou. Do immediately if not already done. If not sure- do anyway- it could cost you an engine if one blows- also helps to do radiator cap and thermostat with rad hoses.

Brake pads - when they get to 2mm thick not including the metal back plate.

Machine discs with pad changes to ensure proper bedding of pads.

Air filter every 20 thou depending on conditions. every 10-15 thou for constant city driving.

Fuel Filter every 20 thou depending on conditions. every 10-15 thou for constant city driving.

Timing Belt every 100 thou unless xtreme driver then do every 60 thou. Plus do cam and crank seals with Timing belt.

Is good to run an engine flush (preferably wynns engine flush) every second oil change as this will help keep your lifters healthy.

Fuel lines every 100 thou or when surface cracks appear.

Throttle body clean with air filter (do not use carby clean as this will wreck your TPS) spray throttle body cleaner onto a rag and wipe the throttle body clean.

Check all induction hoses at every service interval.

Check tyre condition at every 5 thou intervals + rotate and balance and have wheel alignment checked. (you'll get 50 thousands outta your tyres minus burnouts).

Drive belts should be checked for condition every service but usually changed every 40 thou or so.

Sick of typing now so that should be all. I may have forgotten something but that should be all the majors and most of the minors.

[madmoomoo]

Wow, lots of good info there 3LIT3 FORS3... very informative...

I just thought of two more questions for you knowledgable lot:

a) I've got 18" rims on the car and it has directional tyres.. I presume lots of you guys may have something similar. How do I rotate them if there's only one option (front/rear swap each side)? I always wonder this, but keep forgetting to ask...

B) The turbo is stock ('93 r33 gtst), is it oil cooled? There is, what appears to be an oil container on the turbo side, just near piping to/from intercooler. Is this oil for the turbo? and if so, how often should it be change/ what do I use/ and how is it done??

If anyone else has questions that they keep forgetting to ask, then please feel free to add on...

(and yes... I'm going through those threads on O2 sensors as we speak... I'll write up what I find...)

[Godzilla32]

B) Every turbo has to have oil pumped over the connecting shaft otherwise it will seize under the temperatures and conditions it operates. The engine oil is pumped to the turbo. This is why its imperative to change a turbo engine's oil regularly. It gets heated up so hot that it tends to limit its life more so than a NA engine.

[madmoomoo]

Ah, ok. That makes sense. What about rotating these tyres of mine? Which way do I swap them, or what do I do?

[The Dan]

Wow, lots of good info there 3LIT3 FORS3... very informative...

I just thought of two more questions for you knowledgable lot:

a) I've got 18" rims on the car and it has directional tyres.. I presume lots of you guys may have something similar. How do I rotate them if there's only one option (front/rear swap each side)? I always wonder this, but keep forgetting to ask...

B) The turbo is stock ('93 r33 gtst), is it oil cooled? There is, what appears to be an oil container on the turbo side, just near piping to/from intercooler. Is this oil for the turbo? and if so, how often should it be change/ what do I use/ and how is it done??

If anyone else has questions that they keep forgetting to ask, then please feel free to add on...

(and yes... I'm going through those threads on O2 sensors as we speak... I'll write up what I find...)

I don't think the 33's had oil cooling for the engine. So no. The canister you speak of is probably the purge canister. It should be black in colour and have two vacuum hoses coming off it. All it does is store fuel vapours when you switch the engine off and return vapours when you start again. It is a pollution control device.

With the tyres, your absolute best option is to rotate every 5 thousand, mainly due to the negative camber they run. Take your car to a tyre shop and get them to flip the tyres over. This way you'll be using all rubber at all times during the tyres life. They will thank you for it one day when you need traction.

Next best thing is to just go straight form front to back. I would still do them every 5 thou but it's up to you.

Another thing is to be careful who you take your car to. Not all tyre shops will be capable of jacking up your import safely. They will most probably go for the diff centre at the back. Kick him in the head if he does this. (no, seriously....kick him in the head). Make sure they jack it up from the very front of the chassis rail as this is the strongest point of the chassis rail. Further down the rail towards the back and you'll find it gets weaker and WILL bend. The rear needs to be jacked from the main diff crossmember, it should be just in front of the rear wheel.

[madmoomoo]

Another question I just thought of is this...

If I'm going to machine my discs when changing brake pads, what's the actual procedure? (Eg, do I leave the car jacked up on blocks or something on the street - I have no garage - then run off to get machining done?). Do I go to a brake place to get them machined or do I need a metal work place or something?

[The Dan]

Take it to a brake shop. You probably won't get it done any cheaper if you take them off yourself. Wheel comes off, two caliper bolts, disc slides off. Should cost you around $50 for BOTH fronts. Same for rears.

[madmoomoo]

Thanks 3LIT3 FORS3

Ah, ok. So when exactly do I change the pads over? Am I supposed to get them both on at the same time so I've got 2 new surfaces to bed? Or do I then go back home and change pads?

[The Dan]

It's entirely up to you really. The pads can be changed without removing the disc. It depends on whether you prefer time or money.

You can pay someone else to fit them while the wheels are off or you can go home and do it yourself later. As long as you have all the right tools to do it.

Personally I do everything myself. I don't really know the extent of your mechanical knowledge, but when it comes to brakes....I would rather be safe than sorry if you know what I mean.

[madmoomoo]

Well, a large part of this car thing is to learn what I can. I'm comfortable doing my own brakes, but what about bedding in the new brakes? If I am to do the brake pads myself and get someone else to do the discs, which order do I do them in to bed them most effectively?

[The Dan]

Do them at the same time. Bedding in procedure.

Accel to 60km and medium to light brake down to 5-10km then accel again. Try not to come to a stop, if you do have to stop while bedding in, apply the handbrake and take your foot off the brake pedal. This will help to prevent too much heat getting into the pad or disc in one spot on it's first run. Do this approx 6-8 times. Avoid heavy braking for the first 100km or so. Recheck the discs after 1000 kms to ensure no excessive grooving has occured.

[madmoomoo]

Oh, I meant how do I do it if a brake shop is doing the discs and I"m doing my own pads...

sorry to confuse...

Thanks for bedding instructions too by the way!

[The Dan]

same. Just take the wheel off and remove the pads. There is no ned to remove the caliper. Couple of clips and some pins and they slide out. You can replace them yourself after the machining has been done, it doesn't matter. As long as you don't do it 2 weeks after. The disc surface will still be rough enough to bed in the pads.

Probably best to wait until the discs and old pads are all back together, then change the pads. Change before or after, it doesn't matter.

It will be eaiser to change pads with the discs already machined as they won't have a lip on the outer edge and the pads come out easier.

Another thing I remembered is, if you do end up taking the calipers off yourself and taking the discs into the shop, be careful with the caliper. The brake line is not a flexible one and can bend very easily or even brake if you are not careful. It is ok though, you can bend them gently, just make sure you don't bend them quickly or too far.

[The Dan]

Also if they are 4 pot calipers which they should be, you should leave the pad in there so that when you squeeze the pistons back, they go back at the same time together. Do one side at a time, as in. Inner (squeeze pistons back with large multigrips, then slide old pad out and new pad in) then outer (squeeze pistons back same way, slide old pad out and new one in). Make sure you crack the bleeder nipple before you squeeze the pistons back and put a rag over the nipple so you don't cop it in the eye like a porno queen - it burns and the goggles do nothing.

The cracking of the nipple is especially important if you have ABS.

Make sure you use Brake fluid to top it up also. Don't use transmission fluid like I have seen some people do. It will literally f**k everything in it's path. I know you would already know this but it doesn't hurt to laugh at other people once in a while.