Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone!

My turbo seems to not be functioning as efficiently after a few minutes of operation, for example, under low boost setting, it'll hit max boost in first gear fine, then after a while won't be able to spool up over 0.8psi, it has only started doing this recently, a friend suggested that it could be the fuel pump causing these problems, or possibly the ignition coils... could this be true?

I did do a search on this topic, but alas couldn't find any help, so any help is greatly appreciated!

i ran 12psi (0.8bar) through my stock turbo using a blitz dual sbd boost controller for about a year before i upgraded. I wouldnt be trying to force more boost than that on the stock unit otherwise you might find the ceramic exhaust wheel in your cat and then you'll have no boost. My question to you is what boost controller are you using? electronic or a manual bleed valve? Anything to check might be the spring on the wastegate actuator, maybe the spring is getting weak and cant hold the gate open as well anymore?

He said 0.8psi or did you mean 0.8bar Aeris ?

Could be 1 of 2 things that Rob77 mentioned. Exhaust wheel is already in the cat or spring is flogged out on the actuator which carn't hold the gate "closed".

Or maby the actuator arm has come of the gate's flap which is just staying open and not causing boost pressure to rise. - easy to check just have a look at the turbo and you'll see.

:cheers:

Jun

Fellas, i don't think you have understood the problem, unless i have mis-read it. The boost is fine every morning, until he does a few k's, then the boost plays up.

This can be the spring in the waste gate though, due to the metal in the spring becoming that little bit softer when it heats up. It can also be you BOV, if stock, for the same reason. Another cause may be a hairline crack in your piping, ic, or pleneum, and when these heat up the crack is allowing boost to escape (highly unlikely though).

Are you hearing any squeals/noises when boost is not being reached?

I have never experienced this fault and am not a mechanic, just some simple logical thoughts :cheers:.

Hey....

it's definately 0.8psi, not bar...

it does work when i begin, and then eventually stops.. checked the cat, and there was nothing in it, not being an expert with turbos to me the turbo looks stock

i have a wold 3d ecu, turbosmart dual stage boost controller, turbosmart dual port BOV,

the problem is only recent.. if it's the wastegate, what would i need to do, to fix this problem?

thanks for all the help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I didn't know about induction heaters but checked them out and they look awesome but too pricey for the occasional job like this. And I'm too nervous to take a flame anywhere near there as the petrol tank is so close, although I was intrigued with the crayons suggestion 馃榿 I filled a coke bottle lid with penetrating fluid and raised it on the jack so the nut was submerged in it all night. Then went in with a tiny cold chisel and got it almost to the point of splitting but not quite (I didn't want to damage the bolt threads). Then I hammered a socket back on and gently worked it until I felt movement. And it's off 馃榾
    • I should. But it already uses too much fuel for a daily. You might note my recco for engine chnages are almost exclusively to people who have it as a weekender/summer car. I don't even have room to keep the spares for this one, let alone another car.
    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
  • Create New...