Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Since last week my car has started idling high

It used to sit on 950 rpm

Now its up around 1400rpm

Doesnt appear to have any cold start correction either just stays, high hot or cold?

Runs fine but the high idle is starting to shit me.

Anyone know what could be wrong?

Any suggestions before I take to a mechanic?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60270-high-idle-gtr/
Share on other sites

My GTSt used to do this,

I found 2 vacuum leaks, and it fixed the problem

Check on your boost gauge at idle, with no vacuum leaks it should read around -0.5bar

Hope this helps

P.S - my leaks where on the vacuum line going to the stock boost gauge and one on the fuel pressure regulator line

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60270-high-idle-gtr/#findComment-1147675
Share on other sites

mine idles that high all the time, stalls if i give it a bit and back off if the idle is any lower, maybe it thinks the aircon is activated?? does turning the AC on or off effect it??

Nah Ive checked both AC switch and power steer switch (pulled them out no change)

Engine temp sensor raises idle when taken out so not that.

Chris32

You could be right as I was out driving one night and after giving it a bit I noticed

the revs werent dropping down.Finding a leak is the problem.

Nothing is easy to get to in the engine bay.wanted to pull out the AAC valve to check but that means off with manifold,throttle ,linkages etc.

Im sure the designers of these things were the size of Leggo men with hands to match!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60270-high-idle-gtr/#findComment-1148364
Share on other sites

adjust the throttle position sensor. Remember to mark in exactly where it was b4 just in case so you know where it was b4. When i say mark it in, mark it in properly cuz like 1 mm will affect.

Thanks but I dont think that'll work as idle remains unchanged when TPS is disconected.

AAC valve screw is turned all the way in.

Took it apart and it was pretty clean,gave it a blast with cleaner anyway no difference!

Anyone know if the solenoid is suppose to rattle when shaken?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60270-high-idle-gtr/#findComment-1149488
Share on other sites

My R32 GTR is idling high too but thats after i took the whole intake collector off..a way to see if you have leaks is by spraying aero start. It will make the revs pick up when and if there is a leak around your mannifold etc..Mine hasen't shown any sign of that when i tried it but it can get as high as 1900rpm after driving...i took off my AAC valve and cleaned it out i will get a new gasket for it but i dont think thats the problem..Also since this happened i lost all boost..I thought a vacuum line could be the problem..seems more like the wastegates arent closing to build boost than a turbo failure...So i need help with this too..how can i test the stock boost control solinoid...?? Any ideas? i have a completley stock GTR. Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60270-high-idle-gtr/#findComment-1149995
Share on other sites

I havent worked on these motors before but if they are anything like the RB30, then you should have an air regulator which controls your cold start. If the air reg jams open, it bypasses more air into the inlet thus ending up with a wildly high idle once the motor has warmed up.

Sounds very similiar to what an RB30 does with a jammed air reg. Mine tended to rise the warmer it got until it was idling at 1200rpm...

If there is infact an air reg, warm the motor to operating temperature, pop the hose off the top of the air reg and check to see if it has closed completely. If its still open, there is your problem most likely.

Otherwise as suggested a vac leak somewhere along the lines.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60270-high-idle-gtr/#findComment-1150157
Share on other sites

carefully pick out all the epoxy from the aac valve(you will see a epoxy patch about the size of a 5 cent coin)...underneath this you will see a screw and behind the screw is a spring...if you aac valve rattles then this has lost its tension....pull it apart clean it out and stretch the spring or turn the screw down further(i do both) then re epoxy the screw head....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60270-high-idle-gtr/#findComment-1150162
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Can anyone confirm that there is infact meant to be a slight build up around the butterflies int he throttle bodies? I thought it was just carbon build up so i got rid of it to improve flow hehehe and now its idling high. The mechanic told me its mean't to be there...Anyone?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60270-high-idle-gtr/#findComment-1198115
Share on other sites

your mechanic is correct, cars are designed to run with certain amounts of carbon deposits around the place, the trick in the old cars used to be to poor water down the intakes to clear excess build up.

edit: shouldnt really dramatically effect your idle though unless it was making up for worn butterflys??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60270-high-idle-gtr/#findComment-1198938
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Done about 5k Km on the PS5's now, excellent street tyres, great in the dry, and the wet, seem to be wearing very well, I haven't measured tread depth, but it looks like minimal wear, I also had a different alignment done about 1500km ago,  From looking at the tread wear, which is really only minimal, the alignment changes were based off how the tread looked, and how it felt throwing it around, the changes have shown great results 215/45 17 at 32 psi Front Caster: 5.5° Camber: -1.5° Toe: 0.0mm Rear Camber: -1.0° Total Toe-in: 1.5mm I actually prefer PS5's now over the RS4's, as the PS5's are much better in the wet IMO, and as the MX5 gets driven in all weather conditions doing daily duties, hwy trips, and blasts in the mountains, wet weather grip is high on my priority list
    • To update this thread. I got sent a replacement Attesa pro unit and all is now working as expected. Cheers
    • FD is so sexy she can pull off tri-spokes
    • Indeed they do. Best my diff builder could tell is it's a combination of the different cut/angle and it would seem they lap them in well on accell but less so on decel. He had to use a slightly different pattern to the lap to get the best result noise wise. Also as the rear diff runs in, the whine is getting less.        Overall they seem like a good thing so far. He's done a few neat crown/pinion before but all for race cars with loud everything, in most cases the exhaust is louder, so I am the first to notice.... and be somewhat of a pain   
    • What do you mean by "test"? It sounds like you're just switching things on and off that you already know don't work. Get the wiring diagram and a multimeter and start looking for power where there is supposed to be power and earth where there is supposed to be earth. Look for continuity across switches that are otherwise unresponsive, etc etc.
×
×
  • Create New...