Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some one Please help me!

Let say I have $1500 to spend

What can I get? BANG FOR BUCK so to speak!

Front Speaker?

Split?

Tweeters

Rear Speak

optional AMP

and maybe 15" SUB

---------------------------------------------------------------

Right now I have FACTORY

Front Speakers

Rear Speakers

Sony 10 CD stacker Head

10 CD stacker in da boot!

I listen to club Music...:P Ministry of Sounds :)

Cheers

Joe

ps.IF anyone at perth Give me some SweetDEAL!!

go to www.strathfield.com.au

you will be able to get a good package there

they used to have a sony XPLOD package for aroung $800-$900 which included:

- 6"

- 6x9s

- 800w sub

- 4x200 boss amp

- cd player

it was a pretty good deal but i dont think they have it anymore. try emailing them and see. every month or so they have new deals which a really cheap

Joe,

You say you have about $1,500 to spend right?

OK, we don't have to worry about a deck or changer as you have them already.

So I say get a set of splits for the front @ $300.00

A 4 channel amp @ $700.00

15" Sub in a box @ $500.00

Bridge two of the channels and run the sub in mono for more power.

I left the cheap rear 2 ways in mine and just faded them right out so that people in the back can hear some of the singing over the 2 x 12" in the boot...

If you went to different places and asked for the stuff above fully installed for $1,500 you would get someone who would do it..

I got my Deck ($1,000), subs and amp ($1,500) fully installed + a box for $2,500, (already had the splits and extra amp installed) In other words they didn't charge me for the box or install. Thats because I shopped around once I decided what to get and played the shops against each other....

Brett

Guest [ryan]

DONT BUY SONY.

Front splits buy some Boston Pro 2-ways for $1k

Rear speakers leave the stock ones.

Spend the other $500 on an amp for the front speakers, and then get a subwoofer and another amp later on. Do it right the first time, dont waste your money on SONY SHIT.

Guest [ryan]

boston pro's are very high end

high end splits = Boston Pro, MB Quart, Dynaudio System 260 and 360, Hertz Hi Energy etc..

I definatly rate Boston Pro's.... VERY VERY good split.... You can have them absoloutely screaming and they dont loose any quality what so ever...

i'm just having a look on the boston web site at all their product range. it seems quite impressive.

what splits should i get? they have the 5.5, 6.5, or the 6.5³. the 6.5³ i think will be a bit to $$$.

just to let you know what i plan to do (in case it helps)...i've got a head unit that i will use for the moment but will upgrade in a couple of months. i've only got the standard speakers at the moment. i don't want any subs for the moment however i will eventually. right now i just want to add some new front speakers and possible some rear ones after the front. what sort of amp should i get to run the fronts and also the rears when i get them?

thanks for the help guys.

Jackal...

I had Boston's Flagship 6.5³'s in my old car, and I can vouch that they are absolutely magnificent speakers (as you you imagine) :P

They retail for $1600 and I'm asking $800 for them.

The only problem is that one speaker mounting hole is broken on a 4" Mid-range..

Merli. :uh-huh:

Boston 6.5s are 2-Way Splits (6.5" Mid-Bass, 1" Tweeter)

Boston 6.5³s are 3-Way Splits (6.5" Mid-Bass, 4" Mid-Range, 1" Tweeter)

The 6.5³s sound much more natural with the extra Mid-Range frequencies... They are really worlds apart, you can't compare them....

Mine are about 1.5 years old... But haven't been used for the last 6 months and have recently (1 month ago) been removed from the car.

I suppose I can take pics if you *REALLY* wanted them, but they look exactly like the ones off the website.

Merli. :uh-huh:

No, they were installed in a Proton :P

As you may have guessed, the 6.5" Mid-bass was mounted in the door, and the 4" Mid-range and 1" Tweeter were mounted on a custom fibreglass kickpanel.

Merli. :uh-huh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...