Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

:)

I appears you dont know very much about the cost of respraying a car, that or you expect to have it done on the cheap and dont really care about the quality of the end result.

Id budget at least $5k for a respray, and maybe more if a colour change is involved.

Having contacts in the paint/panel industry helps - but if you expect to walk into a panel shop and receive a $2k respray you will get a very rude shock

start by calling up every panel shop in the white pages, tell them you want a high quality respray for a good price and ask them how "booked out" they are.

None of them will want to give you a figure over the phone without knowing what kind of car it is, if theres any damage already etc. Tell them your just shopping around and you'd like a "ball park" figure that you can work with. Answer any questions they have and ask for their best "cash price".

Narrow it down to the 5 cheapest then go around and personally talk to them about what they would do, ask them if it will look 'as good as new' and if the paint job will last so you can get ideas and statements about quality.

Ask them questions like:

- Who will be doing most of the work and how experienced are they? (are they going to put the 19 year old apprentice onto it?)

- What type of paint will they be using and how long you can expect it to last before it starts fading

Dont be afraid to ask simple, seemingly stupid questions and be thorough.

At the same time though, when it comes to cost I would not expect to find many places that would do a full respray for under 3 grand. And if you do it will most likely be a one or two man operation with very very low overheads.

But if you can find a workshop thats desperate for work as they have no customers booked in you might get lucky and they will spend two weeks on your car because they've got nothing else coming in for almost cost to pay the rent and keep the doors open. I find if you pop in every 2 days to 'see how its going' the quality of work will be higher as well.

Being a tight arse is okay, just put in work making sure you get quality as well.

Hope this helps.

3k-5k is a lot of money. But 3k-5k is not a lot of money to spend on a paint job.

Yeah, if you're going to be tight about it, don't bother with the respray, just get the panels done that need it.

When I had a Silvia I had it resprayed for $1600, but they used acrylic paint and didn't clear coat, so you get what you pay for.

Mine paint job was about $10,000 and the car was in good condition to start with. Add an extra couple of thousand for a body kit and fitting and you have no change out of $12,000.

If you only have $2000, enrole at TAFE in an automotive painting pre-voc course, get an apprenticeship then in 15 to 20 years paint it in your own workshop for the cost of materials only. (you may even get change from $2000)

Mine paint job was about $10,000 and the car was in good condition to start with. Add an extra couple of thousand for a body kit and fitting and you have no change out of $12,000.

If you only have $2000, enrole at TAFE in an automotive painting pre-voc course, get an apprenticeship then in 15 to 20 years paint it in your own workshop for the cost of materials only. (you may even get change from $2000)

I didn't ask you to recommend me to go to tafe to spray the car myself.

If you don’t have a proper suggestion then don’t bother posting at all.

Sorry if you didn’t like the answer, but it is a serious suggestion and about the best option I can see for you with a budget of $2000. :) If you don’t like it then ignore it. I guess you wont want to see my suggestion if you are after a $200 paint job then. :headspin:

I already have a university degree so you can get ******

Sounds like a graduate who thinks the world owes them a living. :usuck:

What’s wrong with TAFE? Sorry but you came on the forums asking s somewhat ridiculous question, that has to either be dismissed as being another 13 year old with no grip on reality or someone who is going to need a creative solution.

Your uni degree really means squat, I have a couple of degrees myself as well as experience lecturing and tutoring at various institutions.

hahaha uni degree's.....i think i spent about 1500 on materials when i did my car......is it possible to do a uni degree on "Life in the realword"?(jk)You might find some dodgy leb in campbellfield that will do it....but you will most likely have runs/dust in the paintwork not to mention when it comes off in sheets the first time you wash it you go back to find that the cops have raided the joint and theres nothing there but carcus's of calved up VL BT1 turbo bodyshells and a sheep grazing in the backyard to keep the grass down untill bail is set :)

ahahahaahahah

a leb is doing my car for $1700 inside and out. He is my relo. Might still end up wit a dodgy job, but hey i know where he lives. ahahahaah nah, im only paying for oven hire and paint. not even. Im doing all sanding myself. all putty works ill leave to a pro. Try doing all labour urself which makes up most of the cost, look for the paint urself also. but dont try fixing any dents without a pro. then just get it sprayed after that.

but as the other guys sed, just fix and spray the panels that need it.

man wat can i say, if u dont have connections then its gonna be very hard for 2gs. i got quoted 7gs without a bodykit. just matters on the finish u want.

anyways goodluck

in all seriousness one of my mates got his VL resprayed in hot green for 3k. It looks perfect, no fading issues and probably perfect for a street car.

I think you wouldn't have both oars in the water if you spend 10K on a paint job unless the car was strictly for show.

For the road, with the potential for damage, chips, elements etc, 2-3K will get you a nice respray.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pretty much what you'd expect at that power level. Hypergear turbo, long list of supporting mods, full Haltech catalogue, etc.  I'd say this goes for most drivers, suspension is still a dark art for most people. And it's really hard to convince someone how much better their setup could be...  
    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...