Jump to content
SAU Community

Oil pumps questions

Chris Wilson
 Share

Recommended Posts

Chris Wilson Proficient

Chris Wilson

Posted
Posted

I have had engines apart with the "N1" oil pump fitted, as well as stock oil pumps, and I have stripped both stock and N1 pumps. The *ONLY* difference i could see and measure between the two was a longer relief valve spring in the N1 pump, giving higher operating oil pressure. the flow must be the same between them as the rotor widths and teeth numbers were identical. Someone said the metallurgical construction of the rotors differed, i find that very hard to believe myself...

My question is who makes a genuinely higher *FLOW* oil pump with a totally redsigned rotor assembly, probably a wider one? This would demand a new casting as the stock casting hasn't enough material to accomodate a wider rotor assembly.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Chris Wilson Proficient

Chris Wilson

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry, no pics, but the rotors were identical (one set would fit the other pump and vice versa, with same number of "teeth". The only way to get more volume is a wider gear set, or (maybe) more teeth or a tooth form change, at any given pump RPM. I had a Tomei one in my hand yesterday, that was a totally different casting with the relief valve accessable externally, not buried in the sump, and with a wider gear set. A nice thing, but at a nice price too....

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Warpspeed Experienced

Warpspeed

Posted
Posted

I am curious Chris, why do you require more pumped oil volume ?

The oil pump volume increases directly with engine speed. The only time it really becomes an issue is with a very low idle speed setting ?

As others have said the N1 pump has the same swept volume as the standard GTR pump. A high RPM engine can really use a SMALLER oil pump if the idle speed is suitably increased.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
I have had engines apart with the "N1" oil pump fitted, as well as stock oil pumps,  and I have stripped both stock and N1 pumps. The *ONLY* difference i could see and measure between the two was a longer relief valve spring in the N1 pump, giving higher operating oil pressure. the flow must be the same between them as the rotor widths and teeth numbers were identical. Someone said the metallurgical construction of the rotors differed, i find that very hard to believe myself...

My question is who makes a genuinely higher *FLOW* oil pump with a totally redsigned rotor assembly, probably a wider one? This would demand a new casting as the stock casting hasn't enough material to accomodate a wider rotor assembly.

Thanks.

Absolutely correct Chris, all the N1 pump does is run at a higher relief pressure. Jun, HKS, Trust and a couple of others make pumps that actually flow more. I don't know what prices you get over there, but I can buy a complete Peterson 4 stage dry sump system for less than Jun want for a replacement pump. Both still require sump mods, so it pretty easy to understand why I go for the dry sump option on the race cars. On the road cars I simply fit a stronger pressure relief spring to the standard GTR oil pump, then it's the same as an N1 pump, costs about $2.

2galtk.jpg

4BCPMP.jpg

:D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • niZmO_Man
      VIDEO: R34 GTR NIGHT MISSION IN TOKYO

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      normally i don't like to get involed with these kinds of self promotions stuff, but good on you for living your dream man.
    • niZmO_Man
      RB26 boost leak? limp mode?

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      Remember our cars are 30+ years old so expect the rubber bits to leak. I'd go around your engine bay with a can of "start ya bastard" or similar and look for leaks. FYI I got my car 10+ years ago with the standard boost restrictor in place, I removed it when I got it and the car never had any issues since (besices a leaking manifold gasket). tl;dr- Look for leaks before proceeding.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Never ending fuel pump drama

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      That SSR is actually the same (or similar) as the Jaycar 100AMP SSR (which I use). They suggest the resistor to stop the SSR turning on when the ECU turns off (I believe). I personally don't use the resistor as I use the 5V output from the ECU to supply power to the SSR. I do however run a flyback diode, the old Haltech documentation was wrong too and didn't specify the fly back, I mentioned it to a few of their staff and they eventually added it in.
    • elohim_imanu
      Removing sump

      By elohim_imanu · Posted

      I did manage to do this without removing the engine or front cross member, but I had the advantage that the exhaust manifold was removed. I am not setup to support the engine from the top or remove it. 1. Loosen the engine mount nuts so they only have a nut of thread. If it is a manual, I think you have to remove the gearbox to engine support brackets. 2. Jack up the engine off the bottom idler mount. Jack it up till the end of the slot and nut on the mount. You need this clearance to get the pan out at the rear of the engine. 3.Break the sealant seal to sump. I found a oil pan separator tool helpful to get it started. 4. The oil pick up can be removed with the gap available.  5. The oil pan can be removed now. 6. Before assembling, do not apply sealant to the oil pick up area as your hand will rub it all off but apply to the other three and a bit sides. 7. It is a two man job to put the oil pan back, with the sealant, as you do not want it to touch anything and rub off. 8. With one person supporting the oil pan the other can fit the oil pickup 9. Apply the remaining sealant. This would be more difficult with the manifold or turbo in place, but I think it could be done. As you can see my sealant is a bit ugly, but good enough to seal. 10. Lift the sump up to the engine and bolt it on. We found it was easier to use two long guide bolts at each end to get it nice and aligned without touching.
    • MBS206
      Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I find building an exhaust a really satisfying job! Looks nice!   Did you consider using an oval pipe to get the same cross sectional area but keep it above the chassis rail?
×
×
  • Create New...