Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just got the car dyno tuned on Friday and the car produced 150rwkw - however i have a problem with the standard ECU, its running really rich. My mechanic (NT Performance) fixed the problem to the best he could however its loosing a lot of power up top (still goes hard though) - he said that with standard ECU working properly would get around the 170rwkw. With the aftermarket computer (motech), ford ED throttle body & fuel regulator - we should get 200rwkw no problem. Thats a nice figure for the NICCS engine - which i would be content with. Oh and changing the head to an RB20 (ECCS) would be something that i would think about!

there car'nt be many NICS engines out there with that kind of power!! i've been trying to find an old HPI artical on the NICS rb20det for you, which was mostly about the ecu and its mapping for good power... there was also a name of a bloke who at the time was able to get around the 150rwkw after a few years of playing with the engine, have you had a power run done on any other dyno before?

Why oh why don't they make plug in ecu's for the DR30's :cheers:

PFC i can vouch for as my mate has one in his R33 gts-t, the only other aftermarket ecu equiped car that i've been in that has used aftermarket ECU's on piston motor's are motec/autronic and well speaks for itself hey...

Personally i went the wolf 3D V4 pro, got it at a nice price with the hand controller so that tipped it in my favour, otherwise i was looking at either EMS or haltech..

Like has been said though, its in the hands of the tuner....

there car'nt be many NICS engines out there with that kind of power!! i've been trying to find an old HPI artical on the NICS rb20det for you, which was mostly about the ecu and its mapping for good power... there was also a name of a bloke who at the time was able to get around the 150rwkw after a few years of playing with the engine, have you had a power run done on any other dyno before?

Yeh i have however that was before i got the front mount cooler, boosted it up and a few other bits and peices!

If you can get your hands on the old HPI article - that would be fantastic!

I actually rang around a few places b 4 i opted to go for the motec or autronic - to see if they can re-map the NICCS ecu's - and i had no luck. So it looks like that my only choice.

found the artical, firstly going by what it says was the car modded when you bought it or have you done the work? its just they say that the ecu should not be able to cope with the boost leavels your running without it being retuned?

found the artical, firstly going by what it says was the car modded when you bought it or have you done the work? its just they say that the ecu should not be able to cope with the boost leavels your running without it being retuned?

Um oh k - well it had no work done to it when i bought it! Ya see it has been dyno tuned however not re-tuned i.e. re-mapped - cause apparently theres no-body out there that tunes NICCS ECU's! Ive checked it out myself.

Ive done everything myself - i know that the car should be producing alot more power & that is why im looking for an aftermarket compter. Yeh the ECU has prob shit itself cause i think the NICCS stock produces around 140 kw at the fly whereas i have 150 at the wheels.

My mechanic says he can get the Autronic installed for $1500 including dyno time - is that a good price?? A bloke on another post said that u can get a Power FC for $1100 plus dyno time = about $1900. But $1500 sounds alot better.

Is it possible to e-mail me the article - [email protected]

Many thanks for your efforts!

Power FC isnt an option ..coz they are NOT compatible to NICS or anything rb20 pre silvertop..

i honestly dont think u'll get thhhhhhat much more out of an ageing NICS motor..... but .. prove me wrong anyways.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually,  just remembered there should be info in the threads (somewhere) about swapping to a manual steering rack and deleting power steering all together. 
    • Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
×
×
  • Create New...