R32 Engine cuts out

[=premo=]

im starting to get a feeling that it could be a temprature problem (with mine).

i changed the coolent and it seems to have made a difference. before the problem would happen after a while and then keep happening untill i left it and came back to it the next day. now when it happens i can turn the car off for 2min and it is fine again for a while (it also doesnt completly stop, it will still idle... kinda). im thinking that the factory gauge is bogus (reads at about 2/3) and that my increased boost (13psi) with no extra fuel is causing leanage thus slight over heating and bad fuel vapourisation (when boost comes on it stalls badly). i also want to take a look at my thermostat.

question... what is the round metal tube that is half way along the top radiator hose and i take it that the thermostat is in the housing that joins from the bottem radiator hose??

also what is the recomended operating temprature range for the rb20det?? (i may perchase a temp gauge if i have some spare money).

cheers daniel

[The Dan]

im starting to get a feeling that it could be a temprature problem (with mine).

i changed the coolent and it seems to have made a difference. before the problem would happen after a while and then keep happening untill i left it and came back to it the next day. now when it happens i can turn the car off for 2min and it is fine again for a while (it also doesnt completly stop, it will still idle... kinda). im thinking that the factory gauge is bogus (reads at about 2/3) and that my increased boost (13psi) with no extra fuel is causing leanage thus slight over heating and bad fuel vapourisation (when boost comes on it stalls badly). i also want to take a look at my thermostat.

question... what is the round metal tube that is half way along the top radiator hose and i take it that the thermostat is in the housing that joins from the bottem radiator hose??

also what is the recomended operating temprature range for the rb20det?? (i may perchase a temp gauge if i have some spare money).

cheers daniel

Sorry I thought you were talking about the blowby control valve when you were talking about the air regulator right under the T/body.

The thermostat should operate around 76.5 degrees.

That round metal tube is just a junction, possibly to shorten the top hose or provide support for it. Not exactly sure what it's purpose is.

[The Dan]

Also when you say the fuel pressure is good so the pump is fine....this is not always correct. You can still have full pressure but no flow.

A flow test will reveal any problems with the pump.

It should flow at least 2 ltrs per minute I think. This is when connected directly to 12v

[The Dan]

Check other sensors like coolant temp sensor.

Try driving around with a fuel pressure guage connected. See what pressure it runs when it actually dies.

With this kind of problem you will need to test everything when it is ok then retest everything when it dies, either during or after it dies. I wish I could go out there and test it for you but I'm in Brissy so unfortunately that's outta the question.

[=premo=]

cheers people

[B0oStEr]

The problem was the airmass meter.

We finally got it to play up while the car was hooked up to to a diagnostic scope that logged

pulse width, airmass meter output, ignition, A/F ratio etc. When it started to play up the Airmass meter output dropped out.

We cut the sealant and removed the cover. The connection to one of the pins had broken.

A dob of solder and siliconed the cover back on and she's fixed.

[The Dan]

Awesome. Good to hear it all worked out for you.

I'm having problems with my AFM again. It's the second one. I'm thinking about either upgrading it or spending the extra couple of hundred and installing a Microtec so I don't need one anymore.