Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What would be the best 2nd hand Nissan or suitable bolt-on turbo as an upgrade for a mild modded R32? eg FMIC, 3" turboback. Estimated power?

I want it to remain responsive.

What other options for $1000-$1500

I'm thinking of a late R34GTT turbo if anyone has one but I'm open to other suggestions.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60535-budget-turbo-upgrade-for-rb20/
Share on other sites

hybrid T3/T4e bolt on to R32 its new and is pretty responsive

$950 @turbo aust

  B0oStEr said:
What would be the best 2nd hand Nissan or suitable bolt-on turbo as an upgrade for a mild modded R32? eg FMIC, 3" turboback. Estimated power?  

I want it to remain responsive.

What other options for $1000-$1500

I'm thinking of a late R34GTT turbo if anyone has one but I'm open to other suggestions.

Apparently series2 R33s and most R34s have nylon compressor and ceramic exhaust wheels but I've read the very last R34s have alloy compressor and steel exhaust wheels.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...35&page=1&pp=25 Read on from post #24 to page2

Can anyone positively confirm or refute this?

  Quote
I've been told late R34 GTT turbos have a steel turbine wheel instead of ceramic and are the pick of the OEM Nissan turbos for the R32.

1332turbo01-med.jpg

thats an R33 and looks like steel to me.. just grab an s1.. they're much easier & cheaper to find than R34 turbos..

Otherwise you may be able to get a 2nd hand high-flow for the price you are looking... good for well over 200rwkw..

  predator said:
1332turbo01-med.jpg

thats an R33 and looks like steel to me.. just grab an s1.. they're much easier & cheaper to find than R34 turbos....  

Only problem is the picture shown is the compressor, not the turbine. Turbine is the exhaust wheel, hence when they are ceramic they can fall off and end up in the exhaust/cat

Ive got an R33 T3 on mine, feels like this was the Turbo the RB20 was meant to have off the factory floor. Smoother, more powerful, more responsive. Cost me $350.00 for the Turbo and 2 days to install (I had to modify the oil return pipe to fit around the bigger turbo).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
    • What HVAC actuator is under the steering wheel? Do you mean on the RHS of the centre console, immediately to the left of your shin? If so, then yes, it is probably that one, because that is the mode door actuator, and from what I know, it's still a pain in the arse to replace. I don't know about whole dash out, but you certainly have to rip into the centre console section. I don't know if it's covered in the workshop manual, as I haven't spent much time looking at those parts of it. (and by "the workshop manual, I mean the R32 GTR one, which is the most comprehensive one we have, and it should be similar enough between that and later cars to serve as a guide).
×
×
  • Create New...