Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You're going to have to unpack that for me, and explain how air flowing in a different way can also be applying force in the same direction as when its not flowing in this "different" way.

Well... The turbo is still spinning in the same direction. And so the force would still be on the same side of the turbo blades - the leading edge. Here's why. Surge is just air escaping back through the blades because the pressure inside the plumbing is bigger than the air pressure being pumped in. You get flutter because the turbo is still spinning after a surge and now that the presure is lower inside, the turbo draws more air in again. Then it surges again etc, etc. So multiple surges gives you the flutter.

So, If the force was on the other side of the blades, the turbo would spin backwards and you would not get the repeated surges.

I agree with what someone else said on this thread that backward spinning turbos is a myth. They spin at 100,000 rpm, you can t easily stop that, lots of inertia built up there. You would need really friggin high boost and high boost means a turbo spinning at 200,000 rpm - Even harder to stop.

  • Replies 300
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Before I continue with this discussion, would you agree that a turbo setup with no BOV spools down faster than one with a BOV?

Having never driven a car without a BOV I can't say from personal experience.

ATTENTION:

Now from what ive been reading, my opinion is a BOV is not needed.

But can someone back me up by saying the PSI we are talking is the same PSI you pump a tyre up? also id like to say 10psi is something you can hold the pressure with your thumb... is this correct? so even 20 is pretty weak. your tyres are 34psi...

also if the blades went backwards, wouldnt that cause the exhaust wheel blades to go backwards to, causing exhaust to go BACK into the motor??

Well....

The air in the plumbing has to go somewhere right?

It goes back out of the turbo (surge) and into the atmosphere, passing the airflow meter on the way which read some airflow and the ecu pumps fuel through your injectors giving you a black puff of smoke.

If you have an atmo BOV, the turbo keeps sucking air and the air flow meter reads the air - etc.. see above for the rest.

A plumback keeps the air circulating through the plumbing,after the airflowmeter, the aflowmeter doesn't register any airflow and there is no polution.

The standard BOV recirculates back into the front of the turbocharger to be re-used again. The standard unit is *not* an atmo BOV. So again:

How does fitting a BOV correct emissions? The standard skyline bov's simply recircluate back into the intake system. Without a bov the air is still in the same location. I don't see how it "helps emissions". The BOV is simply there to prevent compressor surge when the throttle body is closed

I bought my skyline two days ago and it does this massive flutter every gearchange higher than 2000 rpm. the front mount pipework was custom made and where the stock blowoff valve usually is there is just a pipe running to a hole in the side of the plenum at the back. Anyone know whats going on?

The standard BOV recirculates back into the front of the turbocharger to be re-used again. The standard unit is *not* an atmo BOV. So again:

How does fitting a BOV correct emissions?  The standard skyline bov's simply recircluate back into the intake system. Without a bov the air is still in the same location.  I don't see how it "helps emissions".  The BOV is simply there to prevent compressor surge when the throttle body is closed

To clear up. Bov's in general remove surge.

Plumback bov's are more emmision friendly.

So, nissan fit plumbacks instead of atmo.

yawn.

I bought my skyline two days ago and it does this massive flutter every gearchange higher than 2000 rpm. the front mount pipework was custom made and where the stock blowoff valve usually is there is just a pipe running to a hole in the side of the plenum at the back. Anyone know whats going on?

Hey I think that might be your vacuum line to the breaks??

Sounds like you just have no bov!?!?

Got any pics? This would help.

Before I continue with this discussion, would you agree that a turbo setup with no BOV spools down faster than one with a BOV?

Having never driven a car without a BOV I can't say from personal experience.

I have an ajustable spring rate bov and I'll do some experiments with it. At either extreme it will give you lots either of flutter or lot of phish. Then i'll post the results. I have played around with the adjustment before though and I didn't notice any difference in immediate power after gear change. However , I wasn't looking for it. Its interesting to hear what alot of other people say in other threads about the improvement in performance that stock BOV gives them vs atmo bov... Alot put it down to the adjustment of the atmo bov. My car never came with the stock bov so I don't know.

To clear up.  Bov's in general remove surge.

Plumback bov's are more emmision friendly.

So, nissan fit plumbacks instead of atmo.

yawn.

Ok so we agree that BOV's remove surge or prevent it. But 2 pages ago we have lots of people stating the BOV's are pointless and they do nothing. Nissan began fitting BOV's to factory cars as this decreased the rate or frequency of turbo failure (I believe).

So do we all still think they are useless?

Ok so we agree that BOV's remove surge or prevent it. But 2 pages ago we have lots of people stating the BOV's are pointless and they do nothing. Nissan began fitting BOV's to factory cars as this decreased the rate or frequency of turbo failure (I believe).

So do we all still think they are useless?

Car manufacturers try to get there cars as quite as possible so nissan fit a bov to prevent surge noises, and plumb it back to eliminate atmo presure release noises and help with emmisions. If it does infact prolong turbo life, then I guess its an added bonus. But at an expected factory boost of 5-7 psi - it ain't gunna do shit to the turbo if you remove the BOV.

There were no concers over emissions for non BOV'd nissan engines. Look at the rb30et it was supplied to holden as an OEM engine by nissan without a BOV. BOV (assuming OEM is recirculate, as all are) or no BOV the emissions are the same.

The air is still in the inlet system (before exhaust / cat). With a BOV it is plumbed to be reused correctly. WIthout a BOV it is not replumbed and causes surge but it is still reused. Neither will vent to atmosphere so they dont affect emissions.

Noises is certainly a possibility as far as emissions go but certainly i dont believe the driving force behind fitting factory BOVs. The VL's passed all the ADR rules and emissions stuff when they were in production run in 1986. I still believe BOV's were fitted as standard parts to prevent turbocharger failure and increase turbocharger life span

The emmission regulations were changed not long after 86 and car maunfacturers were always ahead of the regs by a few years. That would support agument for fitting bovs for emmision control. Otherwise, why don't VL's have bovs if they prolong turbo life? Have you noticed that fewer turbo cars are coming out of Japan recently due to even stricter emmision laws changing again?

Don't forget that in a non bov'd car that the compressed air still has to go some where. Some of it would go through the idle jets (old carby speak) or whatever it's called. The rest has to surge out in bits through the turbo. This released air still has to go through the MAF in reverse. You might even get an occilation of air in the MAF from the surge. this air will still register and the ECU will still calculate an amount of fuel to squirt into the engine. And this will just vapourises into smoke as there is very little air actually going through the engine to burn it up.

I took a picture of what I think is the stock BOV.

What do i do with the pipes to make the flutter sound occur? Which pipes to i need to block or reroute??

Yes that is the stock bov, the smaller tube is a line for vacuum so that it knows when to open, the bigger one is where it vents the air. Blocking off the 2nd one so it doesnt have anywhere to go would probably do it. However blocking off the smaller one may make it never open or stay open always, not all that sure.

The other tube I have no idea but my redtop rb20 had one as well. Probably a vacuum control for something.

Edited by Rolls

Hey mine makes the flutter noise and i took some pics but i cant post them. does someone want me to email them to them so they can put them up?

Looking at Tiggers picture, mine is the same exept there is no blowoff valve and instead a pipe running from the intercooler piping straight out about 10cm then turns left and appears to plug into or run under the back of the plunum, very close to the blue plug you can see in his pic.

I blocked up the stock bov and the car runs like crap. You can really feel the turbo slowing down during shifts. You also notice heaps of backfire. After 1 drive i unblocked the bov and the car ran normal again. It wont hurt your tubo, but your car will run like crap.

I blocked up the stock bov and the car runs like crap. You can really feel the turbo slowing down during shifts.

Still waiting on chrissso to get back to me on his experiences. But what you're saying is what I've also heard about non-BOV cars.

Before people reply back saying that the big, f**k-off, drag cars don't run BOVs...they're also set up a lot differently to a street car, and since their gear changes tend to be flat throttle and a lot quicker, they don't have to worry about it as much.

My understanding is that the OEMs started putting BOVs (as opposed to no BOV) to reduce turbo lag, which is what you experienced.

They chose recirculating valves as opposed to venting ones because of the emissions due to AFM setup and noise issues.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey, yeah I really like the color. Only paint I'd rather have is KN6, but those are expensive. Right now I'm trying to get the car to the point where I can get it tuned to 370hp so the whole setup can be driven legally, and pass the next inspection that is already due anyway. Beyond that lots of rust fixing I'm afraid, winter project is most likely going to be a front end teardown and fixing the strut tower rust. I know these can be driven daily but I don't think I will do so anytime soon. Will post a build thread soon with a list of issues and futute plans.   Cheers
    • Wanted to reply to this topic. I'm in the somewhat same boat with our Stagea. I'm trying to install a different rear diff. The Stagea/Skyline uses mounts on top of the rear diff for the ATTESA pump. Any way you can relocate the pump? I did find this kit https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34
    • So here's the deal, my wife picked up an S2 AWD Stagea. Super cool, clean car. Looks like the owner in Japan went track spec as it's got some heavy modifications including Exedy twin disk, tension rods, coilovers, GTR brakes, oil cooler & a Nismo 2 way rear diff. Now, cool mods for sure. But, she is just using this as a casual daily driver. The 2 way rear is AGGRESSIVE. It also has solid subframe bushings & poly diff bushings. So that doesn't help either. So far I've tried changing the diff fluid to the correct fluid. Even tried a little friction modifier. No help. This thing clunks, skips the tires & has some slight whine/NVH when driving. Might sound like I'm being picky, but just trying to find a better solution. Here in the states, it's impossible to find a Stagea rear diff. No luck. I do have a 300zx non-turbo diff. Same ratio, 5 bolt axles. On the Stagea, you need both front & rear diff ratios to match. This car is a 4.083. I'd like to just swap a normal rear diff into this thing. Nothing fancy. Even open diff is fine. She's not tracking the car LOL The difference is that the ATTESA pump mounts to the top of the rear diff. There are 3 total mounting points for the pump on top of the diff. With all this being said, what would be the best way to go about this? I could remove the Stagea diff & see if I could get somebody to possibly weld the 3 tabs/mounting points onto the 300zx diff so we could mount the pump on the 300zx diff. I could swap the internals from the 300zx into the Stagea diff but this is not in my comfort zone. Is it possible to mount the ATTESA pump to the underside of the car? Sorry for the paragraph. Just trying to figure out how to go about this. Any help is much appreciated! Stagea Differential - Note two top tabs, one bolt hole for ATTESA pump mounting   300zx Diff - No mounting tabs Also found this mounting kit ?? https://theskylineshed.com/products/nissan-oem-attesa-mounting-kit-to-suit-r32-r33-r34  
    • Not ready yet, but maybe later in the year?
×
×
  • Create New...