Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ORRIIITE!

I picked up my car last night! VERY Impressed, and apart from using $20/fuel for 130kms, i think i did pretty well....

While looking around the car, I noticed a few other things:

I have clear side repeaters, IIRC these were an option ?

THE CAR STALLS WITH AN ATMO BOV!!!! Someone help me! This is pretty dangerous if i think i got power to boot and there's nothing there!

I got a TRUST exhaust at the back, I don't know if it's a catback or turbo-back as the front pipe looks VERY wide/mandrel bent... (Troy, you can confirm this for me!)

When I'm going 100+ in 5th gear there's a "grindy/groan" coming from the rear that sounds a bit like a diff.... a tad concerning....

On the "replace oil at" sticker on the windshield it says they used Mobil Synth S oil... is this good ? or crap ?

Oil pressure gauge: When cruising along the freeway, it sits anywhere between the 4 and the little mark just obove the 4, is this normal ?

well, thx for any help guys, i'm sure there'll be more questions...

-Kym.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/6075-got-my-car-questions-questions/
Share on other sites

Kym,

Good to see you have the line at last.

Clear side indicators can be bought for $125 from most import part places, I put a set on mine last week. Look horny and say Nismo so if a cop ever argues about the legality just say they are factory and point to the name on them... he he he

My car used to stall with an atmo bov to until I got the Power FC... The safc will also fix this.. I have a stock bov if you want to go back to standard, I don't want anything for it so if ya want it holla!!!!

A standard dump pipe should still have the metal heat shield still covering it, if it doesn't and the pipes look custom made I'd say it's been changed... :(

Not sure about the sound from the rear... get it checked....

From memory my oil gauge sits around there to when cruising... and Mobil synthetic is pretty good, first thing I'd do is change ALL oils (geabox, diff, engine ect) just to be on the safe side...

Anyway enjoy the new ride buddy...

Brett

Congrats on the car. If you want economy - stay off boost. this is alot easier said than done though:)

As for your stalling with atmo bov, I have one and I dont have any troubles. If it is adjustable, it may just be a case of adjusting the thing a little, if not you may need to change it over. If you want to do this on the cheap, see if you can source a factory one from a performance tuning shop - they probably wont charge you much as mostly when people get aftermarket ones the shop will bin the factory one. I can recommend a turbosmart type 2, I have one and it is excellent - no stalling and virtually no backfiring with stock ECU.

The stock dump pipes are cast iron and the stock front pipe is too I think?? and have heat shield on them, if yours is mandrel bent you can be pretty sure its aftermarket - and a pretty good mod for free.

Thanks Brett and Steve,

I'll get an SAFC pretty soon anyway....

It still has the stock BOV installed to, the Blitz one is under the airbox plastic (out of sight) so i can hookup the stocker if need be :(

Does anyone know how to adjust a Blitz BOV ?

i had the same problem when mine came over with a blitz bov, the stalling.

You can adjust it in with a size 10 alan key I believe, the guy at xspeed did this for me for free, but if you have the key im sure you can do it yaself :)

if you cant find the part to screw in i can take a pic and point it out for you.

Are both BOV's venting? ie: is the std one still hooked up? This will cause problems on its own. I had a plate made up so that the std one could be blocked up. In the end I tossed the atmo bov its more problems then its worth. They make your car run extra rich, so you use more fuel and loose power, and they make your car stall because the AFM has no idea whats going on because instead of returning the air to the intake its going out to the atmo.

Rob

Originally posted by rob77

Are both BOV's venting? ie: is the std one still hooked up? This will cause problems on its own. I had a plate made up so that the std one could be blocked up. In the end I tossed the atmo bov its more problems then its worth. They make your car run extra rich, so you use more fuel and loose power, and they make your car stall because the AFM has no idea whats going on because instead of returning the air to the intake its going out to the atmo.

Rob

hence, S-AFC

Originally posted by rob77

In the end I tossed the atmo bov its more problems then its worth. They make your car run extra rich, so you use more fuel and loose power, and they make your car stall because the AFM has no idea whats going on because instead of returning the air to the intake its going out to the atmo.

Rob

Hmm..mine doesn't

I have atmos (TS type II) where the stockie was.. no stalling no high revs -idles bout 650-750.

And fuel consumption is the same with the stockie. Prob must be elsewhere..

Point to discuss though.. When the BOV expires.. You've lifted off.. less gas going through.

therefore, does an atmos run that extra rich? The AFM will get the accurate reading again in a sec. Cos the proccess is still going..

Bout the same time your back on the gas...

yes/no?

run rich? not really. it will run rich for a split second until you accelerate again, so difference is neglible.

the stalling seems to be mroe with the louder 'ricier' BOV's. so despite the fact they sound rediculous this could also put u off buying a blow off trumpet!

SAFC and most other fuel controllers will fix this and gain power, which has been well documented

the std BOV causes problems as well, it leaks boost. it was designed to run on a std car, std cars run 7-8psi. when u start getting up around 1bar it will leak, causing more problems. replace it!

Random license and rego check (apparently)

YES, he mentioned the BOV.... called me out of the car and shine'd his torch right under the stocker airbox and says "what does that look like to you son?"

uhhh... "it's a blow off valve sir!"

him: " you DO know they're illegal right?"

uhhhh "yes, I know sir, I'm taking it off tomorrow... it makes the car stall!"

him "very well....."

*drives off VERY slowly as to not sound BOV again* hahah

When I bought my car it was disconnected.... It got reconnected before I took delivery tho'

I think it's got something to do with emissions, any change with airflow etc can affect emissions... long story.. dont ask :) It's basically cop bait for your car ....

vvroooooommm *psshhht pick me* vvrooooooommmm *pssht pick me!* vroooooommm *psssht no really, come get me!*

(insert lights and sirens here)

Steve - there only illegal if you vent to atmo as it coencides with emission laws as your supposed to vent it back through the filtered intake

Stric9 well done mate..

Ill have a go at the main subject questions if u like..

1. If ou want fuel economy buy a sonata :lol:

2. I think your car is stalling because your BOV could be faulty. myself and others have never come across this problem.

3. Not sure about the diff it maybe the Hicas tho? another thing to get checked out while its in warranty, may just need an oil somewhere

4. Mobil fully synthetic is top stuff as far as i know.

5. My oil press gauge reads at 4 as well np

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...