Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I'm from Melbourne.

*** These parts are up for grab BECAUSE car is being sold as standards

Please email me at [email protected] (please do not pm me, thanks!).

You need to COPPY and PASTE the addresses to view the pics.

* 18" WORKS wheels 10" rear, 9" front, come with tyres over 95% treads, these wheels came off R33 GTST & GTR and 300zx so you guys should have some kind of idea what offset they are, come with 2 sets of lock nuts. $2450

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/rears.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/fronts.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/all.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/treads.JPG

* FMIC (Front mount intercooler) for TT Z, almost brandnew,( 600mmx 300mmx 90mm (W xHxD*) POLISHED

tube & fin - core 600x300x75, top/bottom plate 90mm), comes with 6 blue sillicon hoses and clamps, not a single scratch or din, still under wanranty got receipt (RRP $1500 - $2000 depends on where you go) . $1250

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/cooler.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/cooler2.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/cooler3.JPG

* Blitz bovs comeplete kit, plug and play for the Z. $450

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/bovs.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/bovs2.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/bovs3.JPG

* Exhaust systerm (mild steel) from turbo back for TT 4/seater Z, "kakimoto racing", front and engine pipe in 1 piece not 3" but heaps bigger than standard, from dump pipe to the end is 3" look at fotos make more sense. poewer gain is noticable when installed compare to stock one. $600.

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/exhaust.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/exhaust2.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/exhaust3.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/exhaust4.JPG

* K&N ( made in Japan) filter bolt straight on the TT Z. $70

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/filter.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/filter2.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/filter3.JPG

* HKS boost gauge with vacuum hose and light, with bracket can be mounted in between the steering wheel and the cluster (if you know what i mean). $60

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/gauge.JPG

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/gauge2.JPG

*** All REASONABLE offers will be considered.

Please email me at [email protected] (please do not pm me, thanks!).

You need to COPPY and PASTE the addresses to view the pics.

Thanks!

http://www.angelfire.com/crazy/fobboy/everything.JPG

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
    • As well as being risky WRT tipping off anyway. Yeah, I wouldn't expect it to move. Just measure from the rear one to the front one on the good side, then measure that same length on the wrecked side. You will find the notches in the pinchweld, and the jacking pad. Just spray a spot of marker paint or something there.
    • but any other area than the bulge you are talking about will just cave in then? The front driver side is pretty bent so I don't know if that will work the way it is now. I can still kinda make out where that bulge is/was but it looks like the position of it also changed due to all the mistreatment? Hard to tell
    • Absolutely. Look very closely at the photo (of yours) that I took my second snip of. See how the sill is thicker material right behind the pinchweld, where the two notches are? That is the factory reinforced area for lifting. That pad is supposed to carry the weight. The factory jack (go look at it, and how it interfaces with the car at the pinchweld) shows you exactly how the load is carried from the car to the jack to the ground.
×
×
  • Create New...