Jump to content
SAU Community

Cefiro quirks

someonestolecc
 Share

Recommended Posts

someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah but 2 weeks ago I was at work working my fat ass off (well.. my fat ass has stayed..) and new years wasn't a good time :)

But yea I'm planning to have my alarm done by then so p'raps it might be a matter of just having it installed without the motor and remembering to lock my door. Then when you can show me how it's done I can re-hook it up later.

wait... you say your dad is away ay? :evil:

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

I've always had a motor that has worked in that drivers door... In fact its really cool, it even automatically unlocks when you open the door (from the inside).

And I love scaring my passengers, I think its tops that the doors lock.

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

no my dad's at home with the cef (it being his car and all)... and i'm away (coz I live in VIC)...

um if you're gonna pay someone to do the alarm you'd be better off doin the whole thing in one go. Perhaps I'll get Danny to outline the whole process when he gets back (might be quicker n easier).

As for scaring the passengers, my cousin calls it the "kidnapper feature", coz she always gets creeped out by the fact that it locks her in when I start driving.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

Oh yeah! With my alarm it locks the doors as soon as you start the car :) Its even better when the person unlocks the door because they dont like it only to have it lock 10secs later after you start driving :)

someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Funky that's a good idea. I might have a go at the alarm myself - then I can add a few extra tricks :thumbsup:

The door auto lock novelty factor is all good I'm just over when people go to open it they are like wtf.. then i have to hit the switch. Then if they're impatient they were trying to open the door when i hit the switch so then i have to hit it some more times. :uzi:

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

well mine's wired up so I can unlock all the doors by either:

1. opening my door

2. hitting the lock/unlock button on my door

which seems to be more friendly than just the lock/unlock button.

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted
i've got no central locking anymore(had it when landed though), never had the doors auto locking though. My lock all button works too. My 105kmh ding gets drowned out by the exhaust hehe.  

I wouldnt mind getting central locking working though as it is handy.

Baby steps Mark, get the car running first :)

OkiC33 Apprentice

OkiC33

Posted
Posted

For the auto lock i'm pretty sure if you cut the wire running to the ECU that controls the speed cut, then it'll disable the auto locking, and it's a cheap way to remove the speed cut. The downside to this is that the hicas light on the dash stays on, I just took the light out of mine, but come time for inspection, over here in Okinawa all of your check lights have to work, so i always have to hook everything back up. I'm not sure about the beeping, mine was stock turbo so it didn't have that, but it's probably controlled by the same wire

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Komdotkom
      High temp brake fluid?

      By Komdotkom · Posted

      Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Duncan
      First/Second Post

      By Duncan · Posted

      Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • svenskalice
      Kaizo Industries

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • believer
      HKS Vcam Step Pro Issues

      By believer · Posted

      I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...