Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all!

My first post as have just joined,

Have been looking at getting a Stagea for a while and stumbled across this site when I googled 'Stagea'!

Had a quick skim through the threads in this section and there is some great info!

Now to the point... what are some things to look for when buying a Stagea?

I have found one I really like.

1996 RS4

Auto (of course!)

Grey

37,000ks

Immaculate cond

$29900

They had only just taken the plastic covers off the rear seats and headrests as the owners in Japan left them on!!

Does this sound alright?

He will do it for round $25 with my R31 Silhouette as a trade-in.

Any help/advise will be appreciated!

Cheers

Pete

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60833-things-to-look-for-when-buying/
Share on other sites

I looked at this car too, and took it for a drive. I wouldnt consider it to be in "Immaculate condition" but it is quite clean.

We were offered the car for $26000 without a trade in (no haggling or negotiation at that stage so I am sure Michael would go lower)

I thought it was a bit too expensive, and for the prices you are better to go Queensland or WA.

Yeah mate as the others said that is way too much - I am getting my 1998 Stagea with the Neo6 R34 engine (205kW from factory) and tiptronic auto (steering wheel controls) for $28,000, negotiated before they gave me a dam good price on my trade in as well. 2000 models are just starting to come through for low $30k's as well. Prices over here for a 96 model with that low kms is about $24,000.

Oh and was speaking to a couple of RAWS who said they will be looking at the first 2001 35 model Stageas (current shape) in about 18 months or so - so might be some nice trade-in possibilities for those of yas looking to have owned your Stageas for a couple of years by then and wanting an update! :)

Ok thanks guys.

I had a look at autotrader and yeah he is asking way too much. Also I noticed the car doesnt have the sunroofs, which I want so im looking elsewhere now! :)

There is a very nice Series 2 1998 C34 for $28990. Tiptronic and Neo engine.

This is a bit off topic, but whats the diff between RS4 and C34? I had never heard of the C34 before...

Cheers

Pete

C34 is the model number, shortened from WGNC34. it's the same as the designation of R33, R34 for skylines. RS4 is the version of the Stagea, it tells you what options the car comes with. RS4 V is the top model, then RS4, then 25X, then 25G... and so on. i hope that helps

C34 is the platform designation for the fairly ugly Nissan Laurel, from which the Stagea is derived. The R33 is also based on the same floor pan apparently, part of Nissan's mid-90's cost cutting.

If you have a look at the C34 Laurel, you'll see where the WGNC34 Stagea styling came from:

http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/l.../laurel/1996_5/

Ok thanks again!

Went and had another chat to Mike, and had a close look over the whole car. He would only go to $25,000 with no trade in, which I still think is to expensive, as you can get the same car with a body kit, leather int, dual sunroof and 18" GTR rims from QLD advertised for $22k (so they should go even lower as I've never heard of anyone paying full price from a car yard!). Also I noticed about $400 worth of little imperfections in the paint and some small tears in the drivers side arm rest just where your elbow goes in the vinyl skin. So Im definatly going to look elsewhere.

He also said (Im very much inclined to think its just salesman talk here) that regency is very picky when checking the VIN numbers from import cars that are from QLD as 'apparantly' there is a lot of dodgey re-skinning of cars over there. He had an example the, a lexus 4WD, which he showed me so I believe him in this case, where Rengency had unscrewed the compliance plates and impounded the car, cause they THOUGHT it had been reskinned and they dont have to prove a thing. The only way you can ever get the pates back is going through court. Whether he is just trying to scare me or not I dont know. Anyone heard of this happening before?

Man... what an essay! Sorry, but I dont wanna spend that much money on a lemon!

Pete

My Stagea was complied in Queensland and it got the full xray, sonic, on hoist, under car testing by the RTA before rego. Every single low volume import gets that in NSW. I asked the inspector how many they "catch" and he said never on low volume imports, but lots of local car rebirthing is attempted.:(

the problem with low volume imports is there isnt an easy way to get the cars into the country and the cars need to be cut in half in a way that they cannot be put back together if they are for parts or not sutiable

sounds like a bunch of bs hes using to get you to buy his cars

Thats what I thought, but doesnt hurt to check!

Anyone here live in Melbourne close to Cheltenham that wouldn't mind checking out a car for me? Its sounds pretty sweet, and the salesman seemed honest enough, but hes still a salesman, so I would like an honest opinion...

Thanks

Pete

For the difference in price I'd take a trip to QLD, spend a week or two there kicking back and relaxing, check few car yards out.

Just try and narrow it down to a few cars before you go - the internet is great for that :(

If you find one you like get it shipped back or drive it back yourself.

J

Yeah that seems like a good idea.

I found pretty much exactly what I was looking for in Brisbane....

White, dual sunroof, sweet rims, very nice bodykit and low ks. These are the main 5 things I want...

But it had sold basically straight away :( QLD is about 2-3k cheaper than ecerywhere else though.

Just remember that all Stageas come from either Queensland or WA, as they are the only places that can comply them.

It is true that regency will inspect any vehicle from interstate (import or local) prior to issuing rego and numberplates. And you probably know how tough regency can be on imports, so at least get the car in stock trim prior to its inspection (i.e. no window tint, boost controller, front mount etc.) then put all the good stuff back on.

From my experience, and what I have heard, don’t take the car there if you are young. Its much better to get your old man to take it down (and act as if its his car) or if you are a bit older, get the wife to go and register it (with the kids in tow). You are much less likely to get a hard time if you follow this advice.

Just remember that all Stageas come from either Queensland or WA, as they are the only places that can comply them.  

It is true that regency will inspect any vehicle from interstate (import or local) prior to issuing rego and numberplates. And you probably know how tough regency can be on imports, so at least get the car in stock trim prior to its inspection (i.e. no window tint, boost controller, front mount etc.) then put all the good stuff back on.  

From my experience, and what I have heard, don’t take the car there if you are young. Its much better to get your old man to take it down (and act as if its his car) or if you are a bit older, get the wife to go and register it (with the kids in tow). You are much less likely to get a hard time if you follow this advice.

All the non standard stuff has to come off for compliancing anyway.:D

Just rang regency.

If it was complianced under the new RAWS scheme (i.e. has a burgendy not a green compliance plate) then it only needs a ID check, not a roadworthy.

So I dont think you would need to take any non-stock stuff off in that case.

Though knowing them, they would probably slap a sticker on it anyway for some dumb thing and get you to come back for a roadworthy anyway! :S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...