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what's this part called?

sky80

By sky80,
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sky80 Rising Star

sky80

Posted
Posted

does anyone know what this part in the red circle is called? i dont know what to ask for if i was to call up a wrecker.

now that i know it's the igniter...what causes it to fail?

after we put the engine back in. the car started first go. no problems, no prolonged cranking.

the second day. it started too. but now (3rd day) it wont start anymore...it's getting fuel, so something is wrong with spark.

what would cause the ignition module to fail? this is the second one that i've bought.

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funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

referred to as PTU by japs = Power Transistor Unit. It controls Ignition.

Mine's the same as an R32 GTR module. Basically the easiest way to check it is to unplug it (don't lose the brackets) and get a mate's one and plug it in to see if it works.

I replaced mine recently. The older R32's have the same one as the ceffies and I believe 300zx's. The series 2 R32's and the early model R33's all have a different PTU (bigger plug).

Symptoms of failed PTU: when you turn the key, the fuel pump starts, engine tries to start but there's no ignition. Check your plugs to see if they're not fouled, and if they're not it'll either be your PTU or your coilpack.

C_DawG Rising Star

C_DawG

Posted
Posted
ah thank you. how should i test to see if it's in working order or not? and is it likely to break down?  

the rb26 aint starting. and im trying to work through all the little possibilities first.

how do you test the crank angle sensor too?

Read up on putting the ECU into diagnostic mode, it should give error codes for crank angle, o2, AFM etc.

I dont beleive there is a fault code for the ignition module however.

sky80 Rising Star

sky80

Posted
  • Author
Posted

funky and c_dawg, you're legends.

it's actually an RB26 from an r32 (i think) in a cefiro, computer came from an r32 gtr 1990-1991.

and it's doing exactly what funky's saying, it's cranking over, but not firing. but there's no smell of petrol from the exhaust either. so we dont know if the injectors are firing. or would the injectors not fire if the ptu not work

SSS in sydney said it might be crank angle sensor. how much you reckon one of these PTUs would be? im gonna call them tomorrow and find out, but just so i have a rough idea first.

thanks heaps fellas

dangerous_daveo Grand Master

dangerous_daveo

Posted
Posted

Sky, also make sure all the contacts on the pack are clean. Every time we unpluged mine we needed to clean them up. Basically the car didnt start until we did. So try/check that first. Just unplug it and clean up all the contacts.

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
SSS in sydney said it might be crank angle sensor. how much you reckon one of these PTUs would be? im gonna call them tomorrow and find out, but just so i have a rough idea first.

Note that the R32 RB26 ignitor is the same as the R32 RB20DET type (they have the same part number), so don't let them get away with charging you more just because it's for an RB26.

C_DawG Rising Star

C_DawG

Posted
Posted
funky and c_dawg, you're legends.  

it's actually an RB26 from an r32 (i think) in a cefiro, computer came from an r32 gtr 1990-1991.

and it's doing exactly what funky's saying, it's cranking over, but not firing. but there's no smell of petrol from the exhaust either. so we dont know if the injectors are firing. or would the injectors not fire if the ptu not work

SSS in sydney said it might be crank angle sensor. how much you reckon one of these PTUs would be? im gonna call them tomorrow and find out, but just so i have a rough idea first.

thanks heaps fellas

Thats exaclty what mine did when the fuel pump died, can you hear it prime up if you switch the ignition to reds?

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

I paid $20 for mine. Bought it off another forum member here. Usually people who do engine swaps have em left over. Mine's on an RB20DE (N/A and its the same part code as the GTR one). The early engines (made before Aug 1991 have a different PTU to the series 2 R32's and the early R33's).

If your guy wants anything more than $50 for it, then let me know I'll try to source one for you coz I found 3 when I was looking for mine, and ended up buying the cheapest.

Oosh Veteran

Oosh

Posted
Posted
Usually people who do engine swaps have em left over. .

Yeap, that's why i've got my spare one, but it's staying here as a spare. I'd be happy to lend it out but i think the distance in this case coudl make things impracticle.

sky80 Rising Star

sky80

Posted
  • Author
Posted

$50...well i just got rooted from behind then...paid SSS automotive $100 for it :D NOT HAPPY JAN...oh well...

still not starting, the fuggin car though.

does anyone know what's the voltage that should be going into the igniter and what's supposed to be coming out?

or even better does anyone knows where i can get a RB26 workshop manual, so i dont have to keep bothering people here?

fuel pump is working and there is fuel getting to the fuel filter.

what should it do if the crank angle sensor is shagged?

i want to try it with a different RB26 ecu as well, to make sure it's not that, seeing as there's water marks on the bread board inside but guys at just jap and sss say it's 95% not the ecu.

this is seriously giving me the shiiits.

thanks for everyone's help, much appreciated...anymore hints are more than welcomed

cheers

Henry

Oosh Veteran

Oosh

Posted
Posted

Have you checked to see if you're getting any spark?

DISCLAIMER: While i have performed this myself and believe the below to be correct i am NOT a mechanic, I'm a backyard tinkerer, you do it all at your own risk. Just take it slowly and be methodical, don't rush anything, but if you're not confident in your abilities resign yourself to paying a mechanic to do it for you.

1. Disconnect power to the injectors (pretty sure they're grouped in to 3's and there's 2 plugs power them just trace the wires back and unplug).

2. Pull the coil packs off the spark plugs, leave the coils on those 2 rails in groups of 3, just undo the rails and lift.

3. Check your spark plugs now if you haven't already.

If there's nothing obviously wrong with the plugs put them back in and move on.

4. Pull all the rubber boots off the 6 coil packs, be careful the spings don't fall out the end, it CAN happen.

5. IMPORTANT! Use something to mark the position of Crank Angle Sensor (a blob of whiteout overlapping the CAS and timing cover works).

6. Undo the 3 bolts and pull the CAS off.

7. Rest the coil packs so they're tips are a short distance from, but NOT touching, the head or anywhere that's well earthed.

8. Turn the ignition to ON (don't try and start it!).

9. Take the CAS in your hand with the little "stick" facing you and rotate that stick ANTI-CLOCKWISE.

You should get sparks leaping from the tips of the coils to the rocker cover one by one over and over. If indiviual coils spark sometimes and not others make sure there's a clear and clean path for it to spark to and from and that you're not turning it clockwise as it sparks unpredicatbly when you do.

To put it all back in, turn off the ignition, and go in reverse taking care with CAS, manipulate the stick until it slots over and the whole thing slides on, don't force it, then line those marks you made back up otherwise your timing will be out. Plug the injectors back in etc etc.

  • 2 months later...
Oosh Veteran

Oosh

Posted
Posted

pretty sure RowdyR32 had a dodgy ECU fry his, and a replacement one til he worked it out, a resistor or something had snapped off the ECU board.

Other than that, prolonged heat, a short, blunt force, could probably all do it.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

what is with the ignitor. Forget about the ignitor. You should be testing the basic first.

Fine you have checked to see that fuel is getting to the filter but is it getting ot the injectors?

Is fuel holding in the regulator? Crimp the return line temporarily while someone cranks it. Make sure pressure builds up and stays there. If it start when you crimp the return line then you have a faulty reg.

Next, checking spark. Do as suggested above. Checking spark plugs and coil packs to make sure you are getting spark.

These things come first in diagnosis. You shouldn't be stuffing with ignition modules until all else has been checked.

If you are a doctor and a patient comes in complaining of back pain, you don't give them a heart transplant.

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