Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Don't be silly!! Why would you want to swap such a tough engine in the FJ with something as not so tough as the SR??? Putting an RB into a DR i can understand but im not a fan of the idea but the SR!! *shudders* YUCKSKI'S!! Leave the SR in the silvia's/poosars :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60972-sr20-r30/#findComment-1175015
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Id love to do the SR20 conversion. Mount it way back so its like a front/mid mount engine and it weighs nothing compared to the RB being all alloy (as far as I know). It would make the car 50kg lighter and turn in and braking would be fantastic. I would only have to worry about 4 coil packs crapping themselves

(This is purely speculation that has no scientific merit which is by definition, speculation)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60972-sr20-r30/#findComment-1220660
Share on other sites

Id love to do the SR20 conversion.  Mount it way back so its like a front/mid mount engine and it weighs nothing compared to the RB being all alloy (as far as I know).  It would make the car 50kg lighter and turn in and braking would be fantastic.  I would only have to worry about 4 coil packs crapping themselves

(This is purely speculation that has no scientific merit which is by definition, speculation)

Why in the bloody hell would you put an SR20 into something that has the mighty FJ?? Have you seen how much room there is between the firewall and the back of the motor in a DR??? You can have a bloody picnic back there!! Why not just move the FJ back further??? I thinking that the SR should just stay where the SR is, just my school of thought....

BTW coil packs crapping themselves isnt really a problem.......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60972-sr20-r30/#findComment-1228677
Share on other sites

Has anyone ever mounted the FJ20 back for better weight distribution? What gearbox do you use? What do you do with the mounts?

How much heavier is the RB20 than the SR20?

18kg is still a fair amount and is backed by a six speed box. Its also more common and has newer tech so if you're tight like me it would have to be the cheapest way to go. (Not necessarily the strongest or most potential)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60972-sr20-r30/#findComment-1232209
Share on other sites

Has anyone ever mounted the FJ20 back for better weight distribution?  What gearbox do you use?  What do you do with the mounts?

How much heavier is the RB20 than the SR20?

18kg is still a fair amount and is backed by a six speed box.  Its also more common and has newer tech so if you're tight like me it would have to be the cheapest way to go.  (Not necessarily the strongest or most potential)

Actually only the S15 scores a 6 speed box outta the SR20 range....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60972-sr20-r30/#findComment-1232643
Share on other sites

http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k15268110

That dirty dr keeps popping its head up like a floating turd on jap yahoo ...... nobody wants a mutant like that, its been passed over on auction for 5 months now and for teh price it be worth grabbing selling the s14 sr and putting back its birth right

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60972-sr20-r30/#findComment-1235831
Share on other sites

http://page9.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/k15268110

That dirty dr keeps popping its head up like a floating turd on jap yahoo ......   nobody wants a mutant like that,  its been passed over on auction for 5 months now and for teh price it be worth grabbing selling the s14 sr and putting back its birth right

Give that man a cigar!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60972-sr20-r30/#findComment-1238369
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • This is the clearest explanation out of those: Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension. Basically you turn the engine with the tensioner bolt loose, then use the allen key to hold it while you torque it up. And yes after that a good guide is being able to twist it 90o in one of the long free lengths of the belt
    • good choice....I have a set of those and use them all the time including on this job. Plus, no-one wants a damaged nipple
    • Thanks all, went with nismo strengthened belt and all genuine nissan idler and tensioner Question on RB25DET Neo Timing Tensioner: I have a question about the RB25DET Neo timing tensioner. In one of the videos (minute 20 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17y37BB9xnA and minute 27 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pb99s2E9xUg), the process suggests tightening the tensioner pulley installation bolt to the specified torque initially, and then loosening it slightly to allow the spring to set the correct tension. Is this the correct approach? The R33 workshop manual on page 74 states: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. The way this is written is confusing. Does this mean: Undo the nut, then reduce the tension by turning clockwise? Snug the nut so it stays in position without applying tension to the belt while removing the timing belt? The manual wording makes it sound like the nut will tighten automatically when you turn the tensioner clockwise , which is unclear to me.   Timing Belt Tension Adjustment Process: After loosening the tensioner nut, you turn the engine two full rotations by hand, which should set the correct tension. Once the tension is set, you tighten the bolt to 43 N·m (4.4 kg·m). Before tightening, you need to insert the Allen key into the hexagonal hole to hold the pulley in place while tightening the bolt. In one of the videos, it’s mentioned that you should twist the belt side to side, or turn it slightly to check if the tension is correct. The belt should turn halfway, indicating the right tension. However, I know that twisting or turning the belt is not a good idea. What are your thoughts on this? Finally, how can I ensure the belt isn’t overtightened? I’ve seen many cases where people have overtightened the timing belt.   Manual Excerpts: Page 74: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. Remove the timing belt from each pulley. Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension.
    • Takes a few minutes to malke one. Wood, or steel, or a wrap strap with some strategically placed solids to provide teh drive onto the ribs.
    • I would strongly suggest using the correct tool. They are not expensive and make the job much easier and don't damage the lock ring. Google "fuel tank lock ring removal tool" to see what I'm talking about. 
×
×
  • Create New...