Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a R32 with the Rb20 i have changed thermostat water pump all that etc in the major serive done 10 kms ago! that was done in winter, also done is engine rebuild so 2.2 ltr forged polished head etc.. now come these last few days been hot the water temp gauge is getting to 100 deg after a long drive in traffic. also once i got home i little bit of coolant came out of the overflow bottle once turned off..... usually on a cold night is at 80 deg.... just wonder is this normal?????

the temp guage on dash doesnt apper to move only the aftermarket one???

so could it be after the modification that its like this?

would the FMIC block cool air getting in??

or faulty temp gauge????

any ideas appreciated thanks!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60981-r32-possibly-overheating/
Share on other sites

Could be intercooler, ie disturbed airflow to radiator. Could be blocked radiator, has it been flushed...has it been properly bled of air?????????

Im not having cooling probs...but have been considering for some time one of these for when im at the track....Has anyone installed a Nismo thermostat, quote...

Nismo Racing Thermostats open at 62 C(169 F), where stock OEM thermostats open at 76.5 C(195 F). These thermostats are very helpful for racing applications, or very hot climate areas.

i have a R32 with the Rb20 i have changed thermostat water pump all that etc in the major serive done 10 kms ago! that was done in winter, also done is engine rebuild so 2.2 ltr forged polished head etc.. now come these last few days been hot the water temp gauge is getting to 100 deg after a long drive in traffic. also once i got home i little bit of coolant came out of the overflow bottle once turned off..... usually on a cold night is at 80 deg.... just wonder is this normal?????

the temp guage on dash doesnt apper to move only the aftermarket one???

so could it be after the modification that its like this?

would the FMIC block cool air getting in??

or faulty temp gauge????

any ideas appreciated thanks!!!

Dude, thats quite normal - dont stress. Long drive in 'traffic' on hot days, airflow is limited so ofcourse the temperature is going to rise. If you have an FMIC that can dramatically effect the operating temperature of the car, especially when its stopped and no air being force fed into the front of the car.

Mine will always get up to 100-102 deg on a hot day in traffic. I would seriously start stressing if the temperature got up to 120deg. When it reaches 100deg, just make sure you dont start thrashing it, when you get moving and constant airflow is going through, you will see the temperature drop. If you get worried about your temperature when it reaches 100deg in traffic, just put the heater on full and the temperature will drop a few degrees... or if you have aircon, wack that on.

sorry to hijack though i am having similar problems and didnt want to start a new thread

Ok i have a R32 gts4 i have notice the last few days that my temp on the stock gauge is sitting almost at 2/3 whilst driving normally on the highway if driving hard will move to 3/4 also my front thermo fan never comes on i saw on another thread that there is supposed to be a sensor in the bottom of the radiator though all i could find was a bolt blocking a hole where it roughly should be. i recently had my 100k service all was good shortly after i had a coolant hose split and had to replace the coolant though am still having the problem any help would be appreciated

regards

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
    • so I need a new speedo cable 
    • Throwing my spoon to the soup here a bit.  When I installed a 044 back in 2012, along with the direct power mod, the car became very difficult to start. To a point I burned one starter motor as I was late for work and tried to get the thing going. With some tuning and careful use of gas pedal when cranking it became bearable. Trying to make this short as possible, but the 044 died after 2-3 years, after which I went with an AEM 320lph pump, which also died after about 4 years to my dismay. After that I went with a Nismo pump, and while trying diagnose an emissions problem, I noticed for the first time that my fuel pressure was 5bar/72psi on idle, and that removing the vacuum line did nothing. After monitoring the situation, and removing the direct power feed and going back to FPCM in attempts to remedy it, I noticed there was fuel in the pressure regulator vac line. Kept the FPCM, installed AEM external regu and the car became sooo much better in every way, including starting. And I had driven it like it was for 11 years.. Anyway, I agree these are likely two different problems, and the FP problem you just haven't noticed before. I do not know much about haltecs, but what first came to mind was the CAS, which probably is not there any more. So how is the wiring from haltec to gauge cluster? How is the battery voltage and alternator?
    • Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)
    • +1 for getting a screen off alibaba, CarPlay/Android Auto is vastly better than whatever navigation cars had 10 years ago. I got an Android screen for my 2015 BMW, huge difference. Fully compatible with factory stuff including iDrive controls.
×
×
  • Create New...