Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i know its nissan but maybe some would get all this and put it all under a skyline, now that would be unique. hehehehe

TWIN TURBO MKIV SUPRA GEAR

#1) 1997 40,xxxkms 2JZ GTE non-vvti engine + Supra crossmember....$3500

engine comes complete, turbos etc, wring has been chopped.

#2)6 speed V160 getrag.........$3500

with good meat standard clutch, the only thing thats missing is the shifter retainer( properly lying somwhere in the wreckers)

*note: engine and gearbox still attached and would prefer to sell as a package, engine was tested and running at the shop. turbos and throttle is currently stripped, but all parts are still there.

#3)Supra big Brakes 4/2pots + rotors+dust cover+ hubs......$1800

all in very good condition, except some scratch marks on the front caliper, the front dust cover is a bit bent but all minor, all damaged done by the f_cken ot at the wrecker.

#4) Torsen "B" series diff with matching L+R driveshafts..$1200

looks to be in perfect condition, the one in the picture is not the one i m selling, i dont have a clearly picture of it, the one with the thicker ackplate.

EVRYTHING ABOVE $25,000 (with the Soarer i m selling in the other section)or trade with cash adjustment.would prefer to sell everything at this moment, so buyers who wants the lot get first choice

please, i've advertised these in a few other places so anyone whos interested EMAIL me at [email protected] so its easier to keep track or call me on 0404 254 172.

i think thats it, let me know if i forgotten anyhting, cheers

LOCAL PICKUP ONLY for now

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/60993-twin-turbo-mkiv-supra-gear/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

brakes sold

the rest is still here, i would considered any ressonable offer

i m very tempted to buy a R33 rolling shell and put this in, but i kinda need cash to pay off some debt as i m thinking of going back to study.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
×
×
  • Create New...