Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What is the difference between rear wheel KW and Flywheel KW

i mean how do car manufacturers advertise i mean is a GTR 206kw rwkw or flywheel??????

KW at the flywheel are always more than at the rear wheels. The difference depends upon the type of transmission (4x4, Manual, Auto) and its condition the driveline. Many people quote between 20 and 30% loss of power between the flywheel and rear wheels. (Its a guess at the loss as no 2 cars would be exactly the same due to wear and tear)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61077-rwkw-vs-flywheel/#findComment-1155541
Share on other sites

This is the most accurate measurement and they are advertising how much power the ENGINE makes.

Not sure it’s any more accurate. In Aust and USA and I am sure they try several new motors and play with the tunning fuel etc to get the highest figure possible to impress the bogans.

I'd love a dollar for every time a Holden owner laughs when I tell then I got 200KW on the dyno, to which they reply "thats nothing the ss commodore has XXXKW". Is it worth my time to explain the difference between the advertised engine figure, the real world figure produced by most cars that leave the factory, and rear wheel KW. Then there is the power to weight aspect as well as handling and power delivery ........

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61077-rwkw-vs-flywheel/#findComment-1155830
Share on other sites

Well until my car is pushed along by the flywheel directly to the ground I maintain that rwkW is not only the most easily measureable power, but also the most relevant as it is the power available to move your car along the road.

My favorite is people quoting the power to weight ratio of a motorcycle using the dry weight versus the flywheel power. It makes no sense at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61077-rwkw-vs-flywheel/#findComment-1155997
Share on other sites

I'd love to be able to calculate the difference from the flywheel to the wheels. I'd like to know what 210kw at the wheels is at the fly on a GTT.

Multiply by 1.2

so 210rwKW = 252 fwKW (its close, but if you want to boast multiply by 1.3 and tell your mates you have 273 fwKW.)

Or convert it to horse power and get the big numbers - very popular with advertising gurus and Western Australians :Oops:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61077-rwkw-vs-flywheel/#findComment-1156040
Share on other sites

What is the difference between rear wheel KW and Flywheel KW

i mean how do car manufacturers advertise i mean is a GTR 206kw rwkw or flywheel??????

does anyone know what the r32 gtr's actually make at the flywheel? when ppl ask me i always say umm.. about 230kw (guess)

so yeh would like to know cos i always thought the 206kw, for all the sports cars in japan was bs

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61077-rwkw-vs-flywheel/#findComment-1156055
Share on other sites

I don't really believe in the percentage drivetrain loss.

I used too. Until I did some reading and SK brainwashed me.. hahaha.

NOW.. I tend to believe that there is a fixed drivetrain loss (approx 55rwkw) + a very very small percentage loss as power increases. I have no idea what this percentage is but there has to be a very small percentage as when you increase load you also increase the friction upon the gears and bearings which is then transfered in to heat.

As a rough guide I tend to believe 55-60rwkw is around the mark, should it be a 500hp motor or a 300hp motor.

373kw is around 500hp... The place that worked on my head said they had a motor on the engine dyno making a solid 500hp. On a Dyno Dynamic dyno it made 317rwkw. This supports the fixed ~55-60rwkw drive trainloss.

Then you think about a stock R32 RB20DET.

160fwkw - 55kw = 105rwkw, mine made 110rwkw & 115rwkw on 2 different dyno's.

R33 Stock 187fwkw - 55kw = 132rwkw.

And the LS1 220kw 5.7ltr makes around 165rwkw.

The loss appears to be pretty much the same for most manual cars.

Its around the mark. :cheers:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/61077-rwkw-vs-flywheel/#findComment-1156150
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well some mostly good news and some slight bad news.  Good news is cylinder 6 did in fact only require a honing and I'm good to run my 86.5mm pistons again. I should also get the block back by end of week. Bad news, had a few surprises pop up. First, main and rod bearings were trashed. No sign of any heat damage. I knew right away what caused this... I had not packed my oil pump originally and spent a lot more time than I would have liked cranking the motor to get oil pressure. It sounded fine once started so I chucked it up to luck and forgot about it. Luckily rod and crank are fine and just need new bearings. Engine builder agreed that this was the cause.    Another surprise that carbon covered up very well that I didn't catch, something got sucked up and went through cylinder 1, 2 and 3. Luckily this was no cause for concern, just needed a bit of cleaning up. Valves look fine but he will vacuum test the head this week to confirm. I'm presuming this was something left over from welding my intercooler piping, but we'll never know. I'm going to thoroughly reclean everything.    So all in all, happy the motor is fine, and I'll get it back much sooner than expected. I'll also be taking the time to convert my WMI system over to direct port. I'll snap some pictures of that when the parts come in. 
    • I understand, thanks. Yeah I wouldn't want the car to tip over, I'll try and use the sills, I don't want to risk smashing the chassis rails. I ordered some rubber pucks that have a hopefully big enough slotting. If the front right gives me trouble I can always just make a wood block. I'll measure and inspect the sills closer once I actually take the car up. I hope so, but the rubber blocks I had in hand so far were pretty damn firm, if they are that hard they won't give much way. I'll let you know what happens. Angle grinding rubber isn't one of my favorite tasks. I'll probably start a build thread soon, for my own documentation and "log" as well as sharing what's going on with the car.
    • Kinda something I have been thinking about.  To be honest, we bought it already driving like that.  So there's no telling how long it actually has been driving like this.  Hopefully damage is too bad when we drop the pan.   I am having a hard time finding a site that sells the solenoid for the 5 speed auto, do you have any suggestions?
    • That'll be most likely down the road...  LOL  
    • a stock / option or aftermarket?
×
×
  • Create New...