Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

-2003 Banshee Scream frame, 19" (but sized smaller than most, suits me and I'm 5'10"), Fox RC shock with adjustable compression and rebound. Bottom bracket height, steering angle and suspension travel all adjustable, 6/7/8" travel settings

-Marzocchi Monster T forks with 7" travel and adjustable rebound/preload, aftermarket CNC machined top crown (stiffer and stronger).

-Diatech two piston hydraulic disc brakes, 200mm rotor front, 180mm rear.

-Felt Cro-mo 3 piece cranks, Truvative ISCG chain guide, 38t stainless chainring

-Dice twosix/speedhub 20mm axle front wheel, dice twofour/dabomb sealed bearing hub rear, Maxxis tyres

-Azonic bars and azonic shorty stem, azonic headlock, Oury grips

-Tioga seat

-HTI pedals with replaceable studs

-shortcage derailleur

I don't get to ride it much any more, in fact it was only built up in September last year with all new components including the frame (but not the forks), and it hasn't been ridden since early December. The complete back wheel and the rear brake hose will be brand new, but otherwise most of the other components have less than 1-1/2 months work.

It would cost upwards of $5k to build this new, frame alone is worth $3k new and is 1-1/2 months old,

Looking for $2750 + freight (we can negotiate something on freight, like half each).

Bike is in Hobart but can be freighted anywhere.

Ok, now I've got pics, here we go...

RIMG0451.jpg

RIMG0450.jpg

RIMG0449.jpg

A couple of specs have changed since then (just tyres actually, the tioga front was faulty and blew a bead out a day after the pic so its got a high roller on now) and the back wheel will be different. Oh and the lower roller is on the chainguide now, I had the wrong bolt so it wasn't fitted in that pic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The second part yes, the first part about easy VE calculation is something I've seen a few people talk about online.
    • You 100% could do that, would save money on a gym membership lol. But yeah, getting a cordless orbital sander will feel priceless coming from doing it manually.  Good luck with it mate
    • I initially was going to do the whole car with a block then realised, it would be a bigger monster of the job 😂 I guess that's all part of the learning process. I appreciate all that advice, I think I got a good idea on how to tackle this whole job.
    • I admire your efforts with the scuff pad.  As a mere mortal, I use this for the baulk of my sanding work- https://sydneytools.com.au/product/milwaukee-m18bos125-0-18v-li-ion-cordless-125mm-5-random-orbital-sander-skin-only Yes you can easily create a low spot while sanding. There are 2 types of filler, 1 part of 2 part. The 2 part filler will get used for large corrections and the 1 part filler will get used for pin holes and areas that only need slight filling.  Depending on how zealous you are with the sander (very easy to do with a power tool) or if you are chasing rust etc, yes those low spots will need to get filled or you will end up with a very obvious defects in the paint.  Using the guide coat and large sanding block, high and low areas will be revealed (watch youtube videos for a good visual on this). Its up to you if you think its worth the effort to make the car completely flat before you spray it (you make it flat by filling the low areas).  At the end of the day, it comes down to time. The end result comes from the level of prep put in to the car. If you want a perfect result, you have to put in the time during the prep stage or else it will be impossible to achieve a perfect result during the spraying process. 
×
×
  • Create New...