Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[someonestolecc]

Okay - these kits are a peice of cake.

I haven't tested mine yet - I have yet to find the solenoid in my car :Bang: - but it seemed to be really easy compared to the shift light kit.

So ... if anyone needs any help putting this together I'd be happy to help, unforunately though I can't help putting it into the car itself as I still haven't figured out how to do that

Does anyone know what a solenoid in a sr20 looks like?

[funkymonkey]

hey SkylineGeoff, do you want to organise a group buy and I can use my trade account to order you guys the gear at cost price. I don't have the time to do the logistics, but can put in the order for you.

[Sydneykid]

SydneyKid, you tuned the IEBC and DFA on the dyno, I just have a quick question. I have quite a good knowlege of how all this works and am planning on building the DFA kit first for my 180. My question is - do you think it's hard or easy to tune/adjust the load points on the road? Its just that I don't have access to a dyno unfortunately, or a wide-band O2 sensor I'm thinking of building an 'intelligent air/fuel ratio kit' that Silicon Chip published years ago, however still being a narrow-band O2 sensor, it won't be that accurate.  But my car is very rich and so leaning by any extent can only be good

Also to those who are having problems with the building of these kits, I've seen up on Autospeed website when looking at these kits (they sell them too), they also have pre-built and tested versions they sell. Might be a bit more expensive, but I thought maybe it'll help to know for others planning on getting their hands on these kits.

Hi I actually tuned the IEBC mostly on the road. I had a boost gauge as my reference and the rest is feel. How quick do I want the boost build etc. If I didn't have a boost gauge, I wouldn't have been able to tune it.

So I don't really suggest tuning the DFA without an A/F Ratio "gauge". You can get them for around $US400 now as the supply has opened up a lot over the last couple of years. Wide band lambda sensors are also getting quite cheap as the volume steadily increases (around $US150). I reckon you could use a wide band lambda sensor with the IAFRK, but I haven't tried it personally. You would of course have to be careful with sensor temperature stability to get reliable results.

I have started another thread on A/F ratio meters, I would appreciate any input.

[someonestolecc]

Ok I may have spoke too soon

I built the kit and all seems good but when I turned it on I noticed nothing would light up except LED2 - (the LED closest to the middle of the PCB).

I looked at the hand controller and it said INPUT 1 and it was in RUN mode. Strange I thought shouldn't it be in VIEW mode?

Lets re-read the documentation. So I did that and noticed I had stupidly followed the picture with my jumper settings, so I removed LK 1 and LK 3 as directed.

This time I turned it on and only LED2 was on again and the this time INPUT 64 on the h/c but still in RUN mode.

What the...? I think ok, maybe I switched around IC1 and IC2, so I switched them around..

Again turned the unit on, this time LED 1 was also on (the middle LED, which I think is the power), but the h/c display was all boxes. I thought that's wrong, so I switched the ICs back and sure enough it went back to LED2 being the only light on and the h/c showing INPUT 64 in RUN mode.

Have I somehow inadvertently taught it a new pulsing frequency (by turning it on the first time with the LK1 and LK3 jumpers in) which happened to be blank (ie no frequency), therefore it's registering no frequency as activity and that way always staying in RUN mode?

I don't understand why the power light was never on, according to my diagrams this should be the middle LED (ie. LED1 in the diagram).

I don't think I've massively stuffed anything up because when I click the L and H switch sure enough the h/c shows it's going into L and H modes.

So why can't I get out of RUN mode? From reading the documentation that should only occur if there's an input, yet, I haven't hooked anything up to the I/O terminals.

I can confirm my LEDs are in the correct polarity (longer "leg" is the A on the diagram), I played with the trimpot.

Interestingly holding reset for 4 seconds (or even 10 seconds) doesn't seem to register - I'm beginning to think all it needs is a reset and I've wired up the reset button incorrectly, but I'm too scared to rip it out and change it around because I'm hoping this has occured to someone else and it was a simple fix. [edit: I de-soldered the reset button, had a look at the tracks and shorted them to try to reset - nothing happened so the button was indeed the right way]

[resonance]

hey SkylineGeoff, do you want to organise a group buy and I can use my trade account to order you guys the gear at cost price. I don't have the time to do the logistics, but can put in the order for you.

I'm certainly getting one, and cheap is good, so count me as one

Maybe you can get the books (Performance Kits for Cars) at cost price too? I'm after one of them also

[Oosh]

When there is no injector pulse input it will display point 64 for RUN on the display, at least it does on mine too, once it is given an input it should be fine.

To switch between RUN and VIEW you need to hit the RUN/VIEW button on the right of the LCD.

The blocks usually appear if you plug in the hand-controller AFTER the IEBC has been powered up, make sure your cable is securely in both plugs, then power it up. You should then have one solid LED (power LED) and two blank ones, use the hand controller to adjust point 64 in RUN mode and the output LED should start blinking then become solid as you move closer to 100%.

If you're still in trouble try to take a decent resolution digital pic of BOTH sides of the PCB so people can have a look, PM me and i'll give you my email if the pic is too large to post here.

[someonestolecc]

Thanks Oosh I'll give it another go when I get home - I'll plug it up to the first igniter and try again.

When my h/c had blocks it was plugged in THEN powered up, but with the ICs swapped (as they are both exactly the same but apparently they have different coding on each.. god knows how they think you can tell the difference).

The RUN/VIEW button doesn't do anything - none of the buttons do not even reset.

The 1 solid LED on the whole time is actually the LED closest to the middle of the PCB, which is labelled on the PCD as "INPUT LED LOW" or something like that....

Just out of interest are you able to switch your ICs around and tell me what happens? If they display blocks on the h/c atleast I can rule out the ICs are in the wrong spots.

Thanks.

[Oosh]

Thanks Oosh I'll give it another go when I get home - I'll plug it up to the first igniter and try again.

When my h/c had blocks it was plugged in THEN powered up, but with the ICs swapped (as they are both exactly the same but apparently they have different coding on each.. god knows how they think you can tell the difference).

The RUN/VIEW button doesn't do anything - none of the buttons do not even reset.

The 1 solid LED on the whole time is actually the LED closest to the middle of the PCB, which is labelled on the PCD as "INPUT LED LOW" or something like that....  

Just out of interest are you able to switch your ICs around and tell me what happens? If they display blocks on the h/c atleast I can rule out the ICs are in the wrong spots.

Thanks.

No worries, but you're going to want to hook it up to an INJECTOR signal off the ECU not an "igniter", on a R32 RB20DET Inj #1 is the top-left-most wire as you look at the back of the ECU but you'd want to verify it's the same for a ceffy.

The ICs should have a white-out SPOT on one and a LINE on the other, on the 2nd or 3rd page the parts list shows IC1 & IC2 and which is which, and by looking at the wiring diagram you can see their location on the PCB.

It's no where near as obvious as it should be i'll admit, however, it IS there in the documentation.

You sound like you have a HC or cable problem, or possibly some bad solder links on the IEBC, maybe to do the DB25 connector pins associated with the buttons. Look closely and be sure you haven't had solder splash and bridged something.

Now that i think about it since it's showing point 64 you should have 2 solid LEDs, the input and power, but let me double check mine does that when i get home. I'll be able to tell you tomorrow.

[someonestolecc]

Thanks very very much Oosh. I really do appreciate that. I'm glad you said injector, I would have done it wrong. I believe that's also pin 1 on the sr20 ecu (sr20 transplant).

And I did notice the dash and dot in white but I did NOT see that referred to anywhere in the documentation - I will trust that it was there if you say so though

When you say 2nd and 3rd page I assume you mean the paper that came with the kit - maybe that's my problem, I've been going off the book with only occasional looks to the photocopies when something was unclear, I will confirm which ones are proper and make sure they're in the right spots (although I'm pretty sure they are).

The cable is a jaycar cable that's pre-made, so.. shouldn't be a prob there, I bought the straight through (not cross over).

I'll check for bridges (again)

I'll also try to short the button that is the VIEW/RUN button because I get the feeling the buttons supplied to be might be dodgy (some click, others don't).

Cheers.

[Oosh]

Thanks very very much Oosh. I really do appreciate that. I'm glad you said injector, I would have done it wrong. I believe that's also pin 1 on the sr20 ecu (sr20 transplant).

...

When you say 2nd and 3rd page I assume you mean the paper that came with the kit

No worries, happy to help, and yes the photocopy has the parts list but it sounds like you have the ICs in the correct spots now anyways.

Good luck with it all!

[someonestolecc]

Does that mean if possible you could still send me the high res pic?

Email pm'ed.

[someonestolecc]

Update:

Ok, I followed Oosh's advice and plugged in my injector 1.

First thing is first - my car started to idle strange, as if the AFM wasn't plugged in and the output light flickered, so I ripped the wire out and had a closer look.

It seems on the outside of the kit where it says I/O it really means O/I ... I think that's the stupidest thing ever - sorry Jaycar but I don't care how good the kit is if you stuff up the labelling it's pretty damn bad.

Anyways, so I plugged it in the other way and, coincidentally I was showing one of my flatmates and said "This light is meant to be on for power and isn't", as I tapped it, it turned on!!

I tapped it a few more times and now it stays on - checked my soldering and it's perfect.. so it's not that but I do find it a little strange.

As soon as the injector 1 was plugged in, after some tuning from the trimpot it actually responded to my revs and went through some of the input levels (1-14.. I didn't want to free-rev it too hard).

So.. half of the damn thing works! I just find it bad how the documentation doesn't state with no input the input led will be on continually. I'm glad Oosh told me - I don't believe this didn't happen to anyone else!

Now the only problem I have is that it won't go out of RUN mode.. pressing the RUN/VIEW button does nothing, holding the reset does nothing. I even tried shorting both of them - still nothing.

Anyone have any ideas?

[Oosh]

Now the only problem I have is that it won't go out of RUN mode.. pressing the RUN/VIEW button does nothing, holding the reset does nothing. I even tried shorting both of them - still nothing.

Anyone have any ideas?

I have an idea, on the HC, did you install the wire link that sits underneath the DB25 connector?

[someonestolecc]

... :nowigetit

UNDER the DB25 connector you say? I do not recall anything of the sort - I will check when I get home...

I took it for a spin yesterday just to checkout the behaviour - closer to redline the input hit a max of 48, with different trimpot adjustment levels. Is that normal operating range?

Also - it seemed to jump a little after 10... ie. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 14 18 30 etc - now.. I'm not able to drive and look at the controller like that on anything but a private road, however just wondering about the way the unit works.

Does it actually cycle through the each input level, and it's just that it moves through that level so quick it doesn't display it?

I guess I'm just wondering if it skips on my car from 8-10, is it still executing the output assigned to level 9 ?

Thanks Oosh - will let you know as soon as I get home, although I'm not sure how the hell I'm gonna un-solder the db25, I'll try to get at it from the underside

[Oosh]

... :nowigetit

UNDER the DB25 connector you say? I do not recall anything of the sort - I will check when I get home...

I took it for a spin yesterday just to checkout the behaviour - closer to redline the input hit a max of 48, with different trimpot adjustment levels. Is that normal operating range?

Also - it seemed to jump a little after 10... ie. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 10 14 18 30 etc - now.. I'm not able to drive and look at the controller like that on anything but a private road, however just wondering about the way the unit works.

Does it actually cycle through the each input level, and it's just that it moves through that level so quick it doesn't display it?

I guess I'm just wondering if it skips on my car from 8-10, is it still executing the output assigned to level 9 ?

Thanks Oosh - will let you know as soon as I get home, although I'm not sure how the hell I'm gonna un-solder the db25, I'll try to get at it from the underside

What load points it displays is based on your injector duty cycle, so if you only ever drive your injectors to 75% then you'll only ever display 75% of the load points (unless you fiddle with the bounds). As for jumping, yeah it'll just be the display not keeping up with the fast shifting inj. duty cycle, but i guess this also makes a good point for what SK was talking about using smooth ramps between points rather than large jumps in value as it can shift extremely quickly between points.

I've emailed you the hi-res photos for your comparision, but i've also attached a picture of the link position under the DB25, the arrows show the two points that need to be closed. If you have forgotten this bit, rather than removing the DB25 (which'll be a bitch), just solder a piece of INSULATED wire on the back of the PCB, don't use the normal link wire cos you could short a track if it gets pushed down on to it.

[someonestolecc]

Holy crap Oosh I think that's it.

I really hope it is - in which case, next time im in SA beer is on me.

Thanks for the email too - I will let you know when I get home.

[Oosh]

Holy crap Oosh I think that's it.

I really hope it is - in which case, next time im in SA beer is on me.

Thanks for the email too - I will let you know when I get home.

it is If it goes well you'll have yours fully fitted before me, I was plumbinh it in last Sunday but had the wrong hosing, and this weekend my folks are coming over to visit. It's hard for me to work on this stuff thru the week but it might happen...

[JaFF]

sorry if this has already been asked but do you need the conroller to tune the IEBC? Or can u just buy the boost controller and use that.

Anyway, I have a manual r33 gtst and have a turbosmart boost controller. It seems pretty good but I;ve been told that EBC are heaps more reliable. Should I change>?

This seems like a cheap option which is good

[Sydneykid]

sorry if this has already been asked but do you need the conroller to tune the IEBC? Or can u just buy the boost controller and use that.

Anyway, I have a manual r33 gtst and have a turbosmart boost controller. It seems pretty good but I;ve been told that EBC are heaps more reliable. Should I change>?

This seems like a cheap option which is good

You need the Controller to program the IEBC, but once you have done that you don't need it anymore. You could borrow one or maybe join with another and make one between the 2 of you, even 3 or 4 would work. They are only ~$70 to buy so not a big outlay.

[someonestolecc]

Need controller to tune it but once it's tuned you won't need the controller.

For $50 and 10-20 mins putting it together it's pretty good

[edit: oops didn't see S-Kid's post.. that'll teach me to reply in old/non refreshed windows]