Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[resonance]

Has anyone tried jaycar's digital mixture display kit ?

For air/fuel ratios ?

I know it wouldnt be that accurate for tuning, but what do people think of it

 

http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?...x=&SUBCATID=347

Yeah, I'd be interested to know this also, I've had a look at this in the catalogue and wondered how useful it would be.

[Sydneykid]

Yeah, I'd be interested to know this also, I've had a look at this in the catalogue and wondered how useful it would be.

You can't use it for tuning, the lamba sensor is too narrow and too slow. So what ARE you going to use it for?

[resonance]

It'd be good to fine-tune cruising air/fuel ratio to stoiciometric, but not for accelerating/power conditions, when you need a wide-band one.

[Sydneykid]

It'd be good to fine-tune cruising air/fuel ratio to stoiciometric, but not for accelerating/power conditions, when you need a wide-band one.

The standard ECU runs closed loop for cruise and has stoich set as the target in the aim table. I have had no success changing that via SAFC, DFA or equivalent.

[resonance]

Oh, true. It would just 'learn' it's way around the AFM signal modifications unless it was changed by heaps. Ah well, so its useless then.

[benl1981]

I currently have a resrictor piece in place of the solenoid to run 10psi. THough it does fluctuate a little from 9psi to 10psi. Will this Boost controller makes the car feel much more torquey by reducing wastegate creep.? I don't want to bother with it if it isn't going to make much of a difference. On part throttle does the car feel a lot more resposive?

[Sydneykid]

I currently have a resrictor piece in place of the solenoid to run 10psi.  THough it does fluctuate a little from 9psi to 10psi.  Will this Boost controller makes the car feel much more torquey by reducing wastegate creep.?  I don't want to bother with it if it isn't going to make much of a difference.  On part throttle does the car feel a lot more resposive?

Well I only have one car to go on (the Stagea), but comparing it to heaps of others (Skylines), the IEBC definitely gives more boost lower in the rpm range. Plus the boost climb is much steeper. It can't be the exhaust because it has a standard one, in fact it can't be anything mechanical because it's all standard.

[benl1981]

Nice one. I think it may be worthyas to get from 3psi to the higher boost in lower gears requires a bit of a stab on the accelerator. Maybe this contoller would allow the boost to build a bit easier if the wastegate is fully shut. I'm not chasing huge power but more response would be nice

[tappet]

just intalled the ebc to my sr20det powered Datsun 1200 ute....hmm im nnot so sure what to say as ive been driving around on 7psi for the past few weeks...it feels like a different car at 12psi... how do i stop the wheelspin ha ha ha ...its sooo fun to drive..

[resonance]

I've finally gotten my hands on the DFA, IEBC and HC. I'm in the process of building them. Some others have had some issues so I explained some stuff and took a few (big) photos of stuff which might help in the group buy thread. Just thought I'd let anyone know here if anyone else is building these

The post is:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...973#post1316973

tappett - awesome - I have a stockish 180sx (SR20DET) so I'm looking forward to experiencing what you spoke about myself!

[pinoi_boi_r33]

alright built the iebc and hc. works fine and tested it. Might put it into the car this weekend. For r33 gtst i will use the pins:

pin 101: number 1 injector

pin 59: +12 V

pin 50: Ground

pin 25: Solenoid.

Will i need to do anything to the wires at the solenoid itself?

i found these fotos. Thanks resonance for that apexi link:

remember its for an ecr33.

I highly rate these kits, i have never built a kit before. So if i can do it so can you. Get a multimeter and antisolder/braid tho.

[Sydneykid]

alright built the iebc and hc. works fine and tested it. Might put it into the car this weekend. For r33 gtst i will use the pins:

pin 101: number 1 injector

pin 59: +12 V

pin 50: Ground

pin 25: Solenoid.

Will i need to do anything to the wires at the solenoid itself?

i found these fotos. Thanks resonance for that apexi link:

remember its for an ecr33.

I highly rate these kits, i have never built a kit before. So if i can do it so can you. Get a multimeter and antisolder/braid tho.  

On the Stagea I didn't have to do any wiring changes anywhere esle other than at the ECU. The standard wiring was fine at the solenoid. Please let us know how you find the IEBC in operation:cheers:

[pinoi_boi_r33]

alright i have wired it in and results have been quite bad. I don't know what the problem is.

i put every load point to 100% which means minimum boost but the thing bubbles and spatters when it reaches load point about 20. I was like f/ck, is that the turbs coils whatever, but the boost was at about half a bar, which should be fine? As soon as it hit .5 bar it just bubbled lost so much power. so i rerouted the vac lines so as not to use the solenoid the way Sk did it in page 2 i think. That ran about .5 bar all the way to the redline fine, no spits no spatters. was better than stock thanks to that little trick with the restricter.

next i thought it was the solenoid. I removed it and i gave it 12 volts and it opened so its not that, i didn't think it was that since the car was running fine before that anyway.

so i thought it was the voltage or wiring goin to the solenoid on the ( H ) setting i had the output to 100% on the ( L ) setting i had it on zero. i put a multimeter on the plug that goes to the solenoid when on ( H ) i was reading 12 volts, when a friend flicked the switch to ( L) it read 0 volts, so that seems fine.

can't be the turbo coz it ran fine at .5 bar all the way to redline and the same with coils spark plug.

My vac lines are as follows:

boost off the intercooler pipes to the top of the solenoid

bottom of the solenoid to a t-piece

from the t-piece:

1 to the wastegate actuator

and 1 to the bov return pipe that uses the standard restricor.

I turned the trimpot on the IEBC full clockwise as per instructions. There is no erratic signals from the injector so i guess i don't need to adjust the trim. ie/ i rev it and it the input goes fine. when i rerouted the vac lines as per SK page 2 i got up to input of about 55 which seems fine was in a low gear near the redline.

Since the hose that uses the standard restrictor is a little big for the BOV return pipe there isn't a proper seal there, could that be a problem?. I tried soldering the t piece but i can't get solder to fill the whole space. Could it be the BOV doing something funny? but that would mean boost goes down but it doesn't. I'm thinking of taking it to a performance shop but i think most would laugh at me using a boost controller that cost only a hundred bucks and they wouldn't know wats the go with it.

any ideas?

[Sydneykid]

alright i have wired it in and results have been quite bad. I don't know what the problem is.

i put every load point to 100% which means minimum boost but the thing bubbles and spatters when it reaches load point about 20. I was like f/ck, is that the turbs coils whatever, but the boost was at about half a bar, which should be fine? As soon as it hit .5 bar it just bubbled lost so much power. so i rerouted the vac lines so as not to use the solenoid the way Sk did it in page 2 i think. That ran about .5 bar all the way to the redline fine, no spits no spatters. was better than stock thanks to that little trick with the restricter.

next i thought it was the solenoid. I removed it and i gave it 12 volts and it opened so its not that, i didn't think it was that since the car was running fine before that anyway.

so i thought it was the voltage or wiring goin to the solenoid on the ( H ) setting i had the output to 100% on the ( L ) setting i had it on zero. i put a multimeter on the plug that goes to the solenoid when on ( H ) i was reading 12 volts, when a friend flicked the switch to ( L) it read 0 volts, so that seems fine.

can't be the turbo coz it ran fine at .5 bar all the way to redline and the same with coils spark plug.  

My vac lines are as follows:

boost off the intercooler pipes to the top of the solenoid

bottom of the solenoid to a t-piece

from the t-piece:  

1 to the wastegate actuator

and 1 to the bov return pipe that uses the standard restricor.  

I turned the trimpot on the IEBC full clockwise as per instructions. There is no erratic signals from the injector so i guess i don't need to adjust the trim. ie/ i rev it and it the input goes fine. when i rerouted the vac lines as per SK page 2 i got up to input of about 55 which seems fine was in a low gear near the redline.  

Since the hose that uses the standard restrictor is a little big for the BOV return pipe there isn't a proper seal there, could that be a problem?. I tried soldering the t piece but i can't get solder to fill the whole space. Could it be the BOV doing something funny? but that would mean boost goes down but it doesn't. I'm thinking of taking it to a performance shop but i think most would laugh at me using a boost controller that cost only a hundred bucks and they wouldn't know wats the go with it.

any ideas?

The only thing that you have done that I didn't was to set all load points to 100%. I started with them all at zero and then worked out where boost went over 0.5 bar, That was around load point 20.

Here are my current settings for low and high boost, maybe just copy those and see what happens;

[elbee111]

Hey SK,

Looks like your labels are swapped around.

If you hook the IEBC up to a non-standard setup eg Hi flo turbo and FMIC, exhaust etc........ Which way would you expect the initial load point to go ?

I mean would you expect to have to open the wastegate earlier or later for your desired boost level ?

El Bee

[pinoi_boi_r33]

the labels arent swapped as the more percentage the solenoid is open the more boost the wastegate actuator sees= less boost.

edit: sorry elbee, thort u were talking bout hi/lo graphs not axis labels. scuse me :Oops:

[Sydneykid]

Hey SK,

Looks like your labels are swapped around.

Damn X and Y axis, always get those confused, hang on and I will repost it.

If you hook the IEBC up to a non-standard setup eg Hi flo turbo and FMIC, exhaust etc........ Which way would you expect the initial load point to go  

I mean would you expect to have to open the wastegate earlier or later for your desired boost level ??

Since it builds boost later I would expect to have to open the solenoid at a higher load point. But it might build boost faster, so you may have to steepen the solenoid opening over fewer load points.

[elbee111]

Since it builds boost later I would expect to have to open the solenoid at a higher load point.  But it might build boost faster, so you may have to steepen the solenoid opening over fewer load points.

Yep, reckon I understand your reasoning.

1. FMIC means some lag.

2. Hi flo and exhaust builds boost faster.

I asked because the turbo didn't survive the first attempt and is now hi flo. :Bang: :Oops:

Have recently just whacked your numbers in and the boost just didn't get there really.

Looks like I will have to go back to square one and zero everything, find out the load point for our boost and try to feather it in from there.

Rather than spring pressure, I just have to overcome the Spousal Resistance to this idea.

El Bee

[Sydneykid]

Yep, reckon I understand your reasoning.

1. FMIC means some lag.

2. Hi flo and exhaust builds boost faster.

I asked because the turbo didn't survive the first attempt and is now hi flo.    :Bang:     :Oops:  

Have recently just whacked your numbers in and the boost just didn't get there really.

Looks like I will have to go back to square one and zero everything, find out the load point for our boost and try to feather it in from there.

Rather than spring pressure, I just have to overcome the Spousal Resistance to this idea.    

El Bee

I have found that "spousal resistance" is lessened by gifts given randomly. The more expensive the gift, the lower the resistance.

[pinoi_boi_r33]

alright i tried Sk's lower setting same thing hit about load point 20 and starts bubbling spitting. I have found its ok at half way on stocker guage anything above and it spits. But before point 20 i put the output to 100% and kept it 100% rest of the way and i've seen nearly 1 bar. Could it be the turbo shitting itself? or maxing out afm? When i reroute the vac lines as per sk page 2 it is fine all the way to the redline and boost is at half way on the stocker guage (yes i know its just under .5 bar but its close). Any vic people point me in the direction of a good place to go, i'm thinking genesis in blackburn. When it spits and bubbles the car slows down dramatically, is this the ECU rich and retard? for the moment i will just reroute the vac lines as its sh1tting me. How would u solder up the t piece? the hole is so big i can't get the solder wire to fill the whole space. Any ideas on restrictor size it shouldn't be that bad?