Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[MANWHORE]

hi pinoi boy. I think I know what's wrong. When you route it using the sk method, it's fine. it's just running 7 psi, which the ecu doesn't mind. When you were using sydney kids load points, and then puttin git to 100 %, your ecu sees too much air and retards timing, thus all the spluttering etc.

I'm guessing that your boost controller is working fine, the problem being the numbers you have put in.

Also, I did notice that the stock restrictor is very very big. It was very hard for me to solder, but I managed to. Just put the bugger in a vice, and hold a soldering iron/blow torch to it until it heats up, then the solder will stick.

Cheers

[Sydneykid]

What you are describing sounds like standard ECU rich and retard. One of the things I noticed when setting mine up was not just the max boost that set the ECU of into R&R, the rate of climb of the boost also triggered it. A hi flow turbo is going to have a more rapid boost climb (once on boost) than the standard turbo I have used so far.

The rerouted vacuum hoses method has a very soft boost hit, because the wastegate sees boost pressure all of the time and it therefore is partially open prematurely. This may slow down the boost rise enough so the ECU doesn't work out that there is something wrong and go R&R.

My suggestion would be to try a very gradual boost climb with the IEBC, but to do that you need a small (around 1 mm I would think) restrictor. Even at 100% solenoid opening you may not have enough restriction to open the wastegate enough and/or fast enough with a large hole in the restrictor.

Soldering up the restrictor, are you using the standard one? Regardless of what you are soldering it has to be perfectly clean, it won't solder if it has any surface contamination. I find it helps if it is hot before I start soldering, so I heat it up in the oven first (or by using a gas cook top if you have one). And I don't have any metal in contact with it, as that takes away some of the heat from the soldering iron.

I would start with a really small hole, say 0.4 mm and work your way up. It is a lot easier to drill a larger hole, than resolder if the hole is too big.

Hope that helps:cheers:

[pinoi_boi_r33]

alright yeah i'll have to try the solder again, need to do a bloody flight mechanics assignment today so I have rerouted vac lines till i get time to solder again. Yeah i'm using standard t piece. Yeah i forgot to mention that i have a FMIC maybe thats y i can't use the standard restricter?

Thanks fellas.

[Panikin]

Can anyone tell me the pinout for the dfa on an r33 s1.

[xRHETTx]

Hey guys

Ive just noticed something on the IEBC pcb thats a bit confusing, the small link link5 is shown in the wrong position on the printed circuit board... Make sure you follow the overlay diagram not the picture and not whats printed on the pcb.

The link5 is printed in the position it needs to be in for the DPA kit, not the boost controller kit.

[Oosh]

Hey guys  

Ive just noticed something on the IEBC pcb thats a bit confusing, the small link link5 is shown in the wrong position on the printed circuit board... Make sure you follow the overlay diagram not the picture and not whats printed on the pcb.

The link5 is printed in the position it needs to be in for the DPA kit, not the boost controller kit.

Yeah, i made mention of this earlier in the thread...

**IEBC**

2. Watch out for LK5 (Link 5), if you blindly follow the silk-screening (like i did) you will connect it the wrong way around (to -ve instead of +ve), read and re-read all the documentation.

[xRHETTx]

Oh yeah forgot about that post, its a long thread... I got a bit complacent after having made the DFA and hand controller and almost had the IEBC finished when...

I snapped one of the legs off the voltage regulator. I'll have to go buy another VR from jaycar. Damn it.

Pin out for S1 R33 is the same as R32 gtst. just do a search on google, you'll find one pretty easy.

[amokrp513]

What boost control solenoid do I purchase? Just any normally closed one from a wrecker? I'm in SA

I've got a 180sx sr20det with an s15 t28bb turbo.

The wastegate actuator seems to be set around 10-11psi. It's adjustable but I don't think i can adjust it any lower. Does that matter when I get and install the iebc?

thanks in advance

[Sydneykid]

What boost control solenoid do I purchase? Just any normally closed one from a wrecker? I'm in SA

I've got a 180sx sr20det with an s15 t28bb turbo.

The wastegate actuator seems to be set around 10-11psi. It's adjustable but I don't think i can adjust it any lower. Does that matter when I get and install the iebc?

thanks in advance

Well, I know an R33GTST/Stagea S1 solenoid works just fine so maybe try and get one of those. If you want lower than 10psi, then I suggest spacing the wastegate actuator away from the compressor body, that will lower the spring preload and thus the base pressure.

[amokrp513]

Well, I know an R33GTST/Stagea S1 solenoid works just fine so maybe try and get one of those.  If you want lower than 10psi, then I suggest spacing the wastegate actuator away from the compressor body, that will lower the spring preload and thus the base pressure.

Thanks SK

is it worth getting a DFA if I've got a stock air flow meter?

Is hooking up the air/flow meter accurate enough linking from the O2 sensor? I'll see if I'm running lean or rich.

Are you meant to make it a little leaner so it's not so rich at higher duty cycles? Is that right?

[resonance]

Thanks SK

is it worth getting a DFA if I've got a stock air flow meter?

Is hooking up the air/flow meter accurate enough linking from the O2 sensor? I'll see if I'm running lean or rich.

Are you meant to make it a little leaner so it's not so rich at higher duty cycles? Is that right?

Yeah that's correct. On my SR20DET, I've noticed an improvement in response (low end) using the DFA, and that's going totally blind (I am not monitoring the air/fuel ratios). Basically I've just leaned mine out over the board, but not too much.

You should have a boost solenoid on your SR20 already, I have found mine. I'm not sure how they work but I'll find out next week (when I get my gauge and put in my IEBC).

[Sydneykid]

Thanks SK

1. is it worth getting a DFA if I've got a stock air flow meter?

2. Is hooking up the air/flow meter accurate enough linking from the O2 sensor? I'll see if I'm running lean or rich.

3. Are you meant to make it a little leaner so it's not so rich at higher duty cycles? Is that right?

Suggestion follow;

1. Absolutely, my Stagea has the standard AFM, together the IEBC and DFA picked up 30% power increase and a 10% fuel economy improvement with out ANY mechanical modifications.

2. The standard lambda sensor is slow and narrow, to do a decent job on tuning A/F ratios you really need a fast and wide lambda sensor and a suitable meter to read it. I use an LM1 from Innovate Motorsport as well as the Motec and Autronic A/F ratio meters on the dyno.

3. As I increased the boost the already rich A/F ratios just got richer, plus the standard ECU went rich and retard because of the increasae airflow.

Hope that was of some help:cheers:

[amokrp513]

Cheers Res and SK. Yeah i was thinking since I have a sr20 I have a sr20 boost control solenoid 2. haha

Just curious what values did you use for your dfa? I'm getting a 3" dump, front put on next week. A/F ratios should rise even more with the new zorst right?

I'm just afraid I'd go too lean if I were to change values without knowing the actual A/F ratios. And I can't afford meters at the moment. I've got a boost guage so the iebc should be alright.

[Sydneykid]

Cheers Res and SK. Yeah i was thinking since I have a sr20 I have a sr20 boost control solenoid 2. haha

Just curious what values did you use for your dfa? I'm getting a 3" dump, front put on next week. A/F ratios should rise even more with the new zorst right?

I'm just afraid I'd go too lean if I were to change values without knowing the actual A/F ratios. And I can't afford meters at the moment. I've got a boost guage so the iebc should be alright.

I programmed the DFA on the Stagea in about 20 minutes on the 4wd dyno, cost about $150. Well worth it and not as risky as doing it on the road. I also did a little bit of IEBC trimming at the same time as the Stagea ECU was quite difficult to keep in check.

[resonance]

I programmed the DFA on the Stagea in about 20 minutes on the 4wd dyno, cost about $150.  Well worth it and not as risky as doing it on the road.  I also did a little bit of IEBC trimming at the same time as the Stagea ECU was quite difficult to keep in check.

Shame you're not in Melbourne so I could come and tune my car with the facilities you have access to! Wonder how much they would charge me for borrowing the dyno for 20 mins :b I wouldnt know how to control the dyno but

EDIT: Oh, please excuse my blindness It was $150 for you - thats not bad I spose. And it takes heaps longer and more effort to do it on the road, that's for sure. I'm not noticing that much more high-end power with the DFA though. Only low end response (like taking off in first and second under boost) is a bit stronger. But maybe the high end improvement is just small. I'm pretty much going to -20 on full boost, though I dunno if this is too little or too much.

[Sydneykid]

Shame you're not in Melbourne so I could come and tune my car with the facilities you have access to! Wonder how much they would charge me for borrowing the dyno for 20 mins :b  I wouldnt know how to control the dyno but

Our dyno guy won't let me do it either, he ran the dyno and I did the tuning. I think he was worried I might ram the Stagea though his precious dyno room soundproof wall. :wassup:

Ask around, you might find a tame dyno operator:cheers:

[fusi0n]

Hi

I recently bought the IEBC kit + hand controller.. and i'm not sure about one joint.. I've attached a pic to show what i mean..

Where the arrow points.. do I need to solder a link to the back of the 10.000Mhz component?

[resonance]

Hi

I recently bought the IEBC kit + hand controller.. and i'm not sure about one joint.. I've attached a pic to show what i mean..

Where the arrow points.. do I need to solder a link to the back of the 10.000Mhz component?

Hey fusion,

This was mentioned earlier either in this post or the group buy one, cant remember, but doesnt matter. Basically yeah, just solder a wire from the pcb to the metal case of the crystal (thats what its called). It earths it and holds it down.

[fusi0n]

Thanks resonance.

That is the last bit to solder for me!

Cheers!

Time to install this baby!! :headspin:

[BBQ]

Has any one had a Left over 10w 10RJ Ceramic Resistor ? I'm unable to find it on the Diagram ? And the thing is about 6cm long.. So i'm not sure where it goes ?