Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[Oosh]

Has any one had a Left over 10w 10RJ Ceramic Resistor ? I'm unable to find it on the Diagram ? And the thing is about 6cm long.. So i'm not sure where it goes ?

Yeah it's to use with non-standard solenoid setups, it's mentioned in the doco, if not the dodgy photocopies then certainly in the book.

[marc2]

An interesting article on p.54 of the latest Zoom Magazine. This quote relates to an RE40A auto trans hooked up to an RB26DETT running a Japanese chipped R32 GT-R engine management computer.

QUOTE "..... so we took the punt of installing a A'PEXI Power FC Management computer .......... The beauty of this conversion is that Alex has tapped into all the required transmission control signals externally in the loom, which means the inability of the Power FC to run an automatic transmissionequipped car is now bypassed."

Any thoughts on the above.

Marc2

[Sydneykid]

An interesting article on p.54 of the latest Zoom Magazine. This quote relates to an RE40A auto trans hooked up to an RB26DETT running a Japanese chipped R32 GT-R engine management computer.

QUOTE "..... so we took the punt of installing a A'PEXI Power FC Management computer ..........  The beauty of this conversion is that Alex has tapped into all the required transmission control signals externally in the loom, which means the inability of the Power FC to run an automatic transmissionequipped car is now bypassed."  

Any thoughts on the above.

Marc2

Simplistic at best, there has NEVER been a problem running the engine (of an auto) with a Power FC, been doing it for years. There has NEVER been a problem for the Power FC to talk to the Auto ECU, been doing it for years.

The REAL problem is the Power FC has no input from the gearbox and zero shift logic programming, so it doesn't cut/interrupt the ignition when the auto is changing gears. As a result you get crappy changes, harsh and uncomfortable at low loads and slip at high loads. As well as being rough, it also wears the gearbox excessively. The more power the engine has, the worse the harshness and wear get.

Maybe try emailing Zoom and asking them about the REAL problem, I have tried and get no response. Too hard basket maybe.

[fusi0n]

ahhh i just fried something!! can someone help??

i just hooked up the IEBC to my car and when i turned the ignition on.. one of the resistors started smoking up!! at the same time LED1 and LED2 both came on..

i attached pics of my board.. i'm checked everything when i was soldering it.. and used a multimeter to test the resistor before putting it on..

if the pics are not clear, i can take some more..

thanks!

btw SKid.. if u are not too busy can I bring my board to u to have a look at?

[resonance]

ahhh i just fried something!! can someone help??

i just hooked up the IEBC to my car and when i turned the ignition on.. one of the resistors started smoking up!! at the same time LED1 and LED2 both came on..

i attached pics of my board.. i'm checked everything when i was soldering it.. and used a multimeter to test the resistor before putting it on..

if the pics are not clear, i can take some more..

thanks!

btw SKid.. if u are not too busy can I bring my board to u to have a look at?

Congratulations mate, you fried a component

Anyway, I looked at your pics and it looks like all yoru diodes are the right way around and same with transistors. The reason why it's fried is becasue it was passing much more current than it normally would, because of either a short circuit or a busted transistor or wrong values of nearby components (like resistors). I can't see any problems with the placement of your components or your soldering, but the soldering pic is a bit unclear. Check all your soldering points and make sure no points touch eachother. This is the kind of thing that would cause a short usually. Check the value of the resistor that failed, the colour should be brown, black, black, gold, brown. Check other resistors nearby too.

That's about all I can suggest at this stage Hopefully you get it going soon.

[Savman]

Interesting stuff,,, Not hijacking but jcar also has a sms contollerkit.... Meaning u can have up to 8 inputs from your mobile(eg start engine, lock, stop engine, alarm whatever u want) and 4 outputs from car (alarm going off, door open, seat sensor). silent alarm if u want. Sms u whats happening with ya car. Don't want to change subject, just a thought.

Can't wait to see the results

[55Nat]

Hey guys,

Has anyone hooked this up with an external gate, i've installed the boost controller and it hits 30psi+ and still spooling on 30% throttle! - its not a standard turbo.

This has happened on both ways i hooked it up...

Manifold pressure ---> top of stock solinoid

bottom port of stock solinoid ---> T piece ---> vent to atmo with a fitting on the end acting as a bleeder and other to top port of wastegate.

We've tried the bottom port aswel didn't make a difference.

Turbosmart 45mm Pro-Gate is what im using, does anyone know how to hook it up properly?

I've tried 0% and 100% on all load point don't make no difference:(

Thanks

Nat

[fusi0n]

hahah Thanks resonance..

I just checked all the resistors and they have are all in the right spots.. I tested the burnt resistor and it has a slightly lower value than 10.. does this matter?

I'm new to all this.. so how do I test if a transistor is busted?

I checked all my solder joints and it doesn't seem like anything is touching.. I'll try and take a clearer picture tomorrow to show you.

Thanks again..

Congratulations mate, you fried a component

Anyway, I looked at your pics and it looks like all yoru diodes are the right way around and same with transistors. The reason why it's fried is becasue it was passing much more current than it normally would, because of either a short circuit or a busted transistor or wrong values of nearby components (like resistors). I can't see any problems with the placement of your components or your soldering, but the soldering pic is a bit unclear. Check all your soldering points and make sure no points touch eachother. This is the kind of thing that would cause a short usually. Check the value of the resistor that failed, the colour should be brown, black, black, gold, brown. Check other resistors nearby too.  

That's about all I can suggest at this stage Hopefully you get it going soon.

[someonestolecc]

hahah Thanks resonance..

I just checked all the resistors and they have are all in the right spots.. I tested the burnt resistor and it has a slightly lower value than 10.. does this matter?

I'm new to all this.. so how do I test if a transistor is busted?

I checked all my solder joints and it doesn't seem like anything is touching.. I'll try and take a clearer picture tomorrow to show you.

Thanks again..

Gday fusi0n,

My board does the same thing. I've replaced it with 4 resistors (replugging stuff each time) and still the same thing.

My story was that I plugged it all up, and it worked. Drove the car around a bit and tuned it etc it worked fine. Then I thought I'd mount it in the glove box and solder it to stuff instead of just letting it sit in the passenger footwell.

I re-routed the wires and cables nicely and plugged it back up. Thats when the resistor started burning up. I made sure it was all plugged up the same way as it had been before.

My cars been off the road since that happened but I'm keen to get to the bottom of it as I don't really want to buy another one, I'm very suprised also that the same resistor dies on you. The only thing I can suggest is when you're plugging your + and - in, check that it's according to what is on the PCB and not on the outside of the case. The case was opposite to what was on the PCB with my kit.

[fusi0n]

Gday fusi0n,

My board does the same thing. I've replaced it with 4 resistors (replugging stuff each time) and still the same thing.

My story was that I plugged it all up, and it worked. Drove the car around a bit and tuned it etc it worked fine. Then I thought I'd mount it in the glove box and solder it to stuff instead of just letting it sit in the passenger footwell.

I re-routed the wires and cables nicely and plugged it back up. Thats when the resistor started burning up. I made sure it was all plugged up the same way as it had been before.

My cars been off the road since that happened but I'm keen to get to the bottom of it as I don't really want to buy another one, I'm very suprised also that the same resistor dies on you. The only thing I can suggest is when you're plugging your + and - in, check that it's according to what is on the PCB and not on the outside of the case. The case was opposite to what was on the PCB with my kit.

someonestolecc,

yeh my +/- is the right way around.. no problems there..

I'm going to JayCar tomorrow and get a few more resistors and re-solder.. I don't understand alot about electronics but maybe the burnt resistor was dodgy to begin with? Maybe someone with a bit more understanding can shed some light..

[Sydneykid]

Hi guys, it is not impossible that is is a bad component, but (based on my experience) it is unlikely. Burnt resistors are a sign of excessive load (going through them), so I would work my way through the circuit diagram and check the components on either side of the resistor.

Let's give it a go using the circuit diagram on page 141 of Performance Electronics for Cars;

It's a 10ohm resistor that sits between diode 2 and and zener diode 2 in the power supply circuit comtrolled by reg 1. So I would be checking the polarity of D2, ZD2 and Reg 1 and the value of the 1000uf, 10uf and 1000nf capacitors. I have marked them with red dots on the cicuit layout below (page 137 of Performance Electronics for Cars);.

I know someone has already suggested it, but the problem is in the power supply circuit, so the first thing I make ABSOLUTELY sure of is that the polarity of the power source is correct. Test it at least 3 ways, such as wire colour, multimeter voltage in and multimeter voltage out. The test voltages are shown on the circuit diagram above.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

[Sydneykid]

Hey guys,

Has anyone hooked this up with an external gate, i've installed the boost controller and it hits 30psi+ and still spooling on 30% throttle! - its not a standard turbo.  

This has happened on both ways i hooked it up...

Manifold pressure ---> top of stock solinoid

bottom port of stock solinoid ---> T piece ---> vent to atmo with a fitting on the end acting as a bleeder and other to top port of wastegate.

We've tried the bottom port aswel didn't make a difference.

Turbosmart 45mm Pro-Gate is what im using, does anyone know how to hook it up properly?

I've tried 0% and 100% on all load point don't make no difference:(

Thanks

Nat

In operation of the wastegate actuator, an external gate is no different to an internal gate. However an external gate has a larger surface area for the diaphram and so needs more airflow to move it (and open the wastegate).

As you can see from the above diagram (page 136 of the Performance Electronics for Cars) the size of the "vent" determines how much airflow goes to the wastegate actuator. If the vent is too big, not enough air flows to it and the diaphram doesn't move (open the wastegate) and you get no boost control (it just keeps going up).

So, my first suggestion would be to drastically reduce the size of the vent, I would start at 0.5mm and work my way up (in drill bit size) if that is too small and you can't get high enough boost. I have targetted around 60% solenoid opening and sized the vent accordingly.

Hope that helps:cheers:

[someonestolecc]

Thanks S-Kid your info is being printed off and I will check each one of those.

I did give following it through the diagram but I couldn't guess my way through it so I appreciate you making it easy for us

Beers on me if we ever meet!!

[fusi0n]

Hi guys, it is not impossible that is is a bad component, but (based on my experience) it is unlikely.  Burnt resistors are a sign of excessive load (going through them), so I would work my way through the circuit diagram and check the components on either side of the resistor.

Let's give it a go using the circuit diagram on page 141 of Performance Electronics for Cars;

It's a 10ohm resistor that sits between diode 2 and and zener diode 2 in the power supply circuit comtrolled by reg 1.  So I would be checking the polarity of D2, ZD2 and Reg 1 and the value of the 1000uf, 10uf and 1000nf capacitors.  I have marked them with red dots on the cicuit layout below (page 137 of Performance Electronics for Cars);.

I know someone has already suggested it, but the problem is in the power supply circuit, so the first thing I make ABSOLUTELY sure of is that the polarity of the power source is correct.   Test it at least 3 ways, such as wire colour, multimeter voltage in and multimeter voltage out.  The test voltages are shown on the circuit diagram above.

Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Thanks for the info SK..

I just did some more testing.. and reliased that the resistor burns out only if the hand controller is plugged in when i switch on the power.. Maybe the hand controller is drawing too much voltage?

I got a friend helping me with it at the moment.. he has some understanding in electronics.. But we are unable to figure out what is causing this so far..

But it may be the hand controller.. I was wondering if anyone in the Sydney area can lend me their *working* hand controller to test this?? I'm in the Fairfield area..

Thanks again SK.

[someonestolecc]

Thanks for the diagnosis fusi0n. Assuming it's light enough when I get back to my car today I'll try adding another resistor and un-plugging my hand controller to see if the same thing happens.

[55Nat]

In operation of the wastegate actuator, an external gate is no different to an internal gate.  However an external gate has a larger surface area for the diaphram and so needs more airflow to move it (and open the wastegate).  

As you can see from the above diagram (page 136 of the Performance Electronics for Cars) the size of the "vent" determines how much airflow goes to the wastegate actuator.  If the vent is too big, not enough air flows to it and the diaphram doesn't move (open the wastegate) and you get no boost control (it just keeps going up).

So, my first suggestion would be to drastically reduce the size of the vent, I would start at 0.5mm and work my way up (in drill bit  size) if that is too small and you can't get high enough boost.  I have targetted around 60% solenoid opening and sized the vent accordingly.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Thanks SK,

I'm running the 21psi spring in the wastegate would this have somthing to do with it not opening? Should i try getting rid of the vent all together?

[xRHETTx]

You cant get rid of the vent altogether, or else wastegate could never close once its been opened.

[Sydneykid]

Thanks for the info SK..

I just did some more testing.. and reliased that the resistor burns out only if the hand controller is plugged in when i switch on the power.. Maybe the hand controller is drawing too much voltage?

I got a friend helping me with it at the moment.. he has some understanding in electronics.. But we are unable to figure out what is causing this so far..

But it may be the hand controller.. I was wondering if anyone in the Sydney area can lend me their *working* hand controller to test this?? I'm in the Fairfield area..

Thanks again SK.

PM me if you want to borrow mine:cheers:

[Sydneykid]

Thanks SK,

I'm running the 21psi spring in the wastegate would this have somthing to do with it not opening? Should i try getting rid of the vent all together?

The vent is necessary otherwise there is no way for the boost pressure to get out and, as xRHETTx posted, that means the wastegate will stay open.

A 21psi spring means you can't have less than that as your minimum boost level.

[fusi0n]

PM me if you want to borrow mine:cheers:

Thanks for that SK.. My friend mentioned his cousin has one for his DFA.. but he won't be home until late tonight.. so I'll try and borrow that first but if not u'll be getting a pm from me..

Thanks for the offer..