Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[fusi0n]

I just tested this.. connected 12V to the soleniod and was able to blow thru it.. so the soleniod is open when power is applied.. this tells me that my soleniod is the NC type..

So any ideas as the why the IEBC is working in reverse?

[someonestolecc]

Wrong polarity?

[fusi0n]

Wrong polarity?

I think I might the the hoses at the solenoid hooked up incorrectly.. I re-did them tonight and will test it out tomorrow..

[Rskyline33]

adjust the trimpot near the connector on the hand controller. it is brightness/contrast.

thankx man, that's one problem fixed...

i can now see stuff on the screen, but no numbers, a line of squares across the screen. i tried resetting it and all but nothing.

is anyone having the same problem?

[PHATR32]

if you see lines thats means you adjusted it far forward, turn the contrast down a bit.

steve

[tang0]

I just tested this.. connected 12V to the soleniod and was able to blow thru it.. so the soleniod is open when power is applied.. this tells me that my soleniod is the NC type..

So any ideas as the why the IEBC is working in reverse?

do you have the links set the right way on the iebc ??? you can swap it around so that 0% is normally open or closed i thought ???

cheers

[fusi0n]

Woohoo! :headspin: it's working now as it should.. had my hoses connected incorrectly.. and yes my soleniod is the NC type.. not NO as I thought...

Everything works now.. I have a 1.15mm vent and I think thats still a tad big.. maybe 1mm or 0.75mm would be better.. as boost is still rising at 100% soleniod duty.. but rising very slowly tho.. waiting for this wet weather to clear before testing properly..

Thanks to all u guys for u help.. esp SK and CC

[resonance]

Woohoo!  :headspin:  it's working now as it should.. had my hoses connected incorrectly.. and yes my soleniod is the NC type.. not NO as I thought...

Everything works now.. I have a 1.15mm vent and I think thats still a tad big.. maybe 1mm or 0.75mm would be better.. as boost is still rising at 100% soleniod duty.. but rising very slowly tho.. waiting for this wet weather to clear before testing properly..

Thanks to all u guys for u help.. esp SK and CC  

Cool, well done This is on a SR20DET yeah? I'm going to install the IEBC on my 180 soon now that I got my boost gauge (which is showing 0.8-0.9 peak bar on stock boost with turbo back exhaust + pod at ~3500rpm). I'm looking forward to reducing the turbo lag

[fusi0n]

yep S15

boost builds crazily fast.. u should see my boost gauge needle..

[maccaz_gts25t]

how much was all that???

[xRHETTx]

how much was all that???

How much was what?

[fusi0n]

Hi again,

While tuning my IEBC it doesn't seem to have the same boost curve in every gear..

In 3rd or below the curve is about the same.. but in 4th gear onwards it seems to overboost like mad..

The thing I noticed is that while in 2rd or 3rd.. with all Output pts set to 0 (soleniod closed).. boost gets to 15psi at an earlier Input pt than in 4th or 5th gear.. Should it behave this way?

By the way I have a 1.15mm vent.. This shouldn't matter as the soleniod is completely closed..

Below is my boost map.. Does anyone have any ideas? Theories?

1 = 0

2 = 0

3 = 0

4 = 0

5 = 0

6 = 0

7 = 0

8 = 0

9 = 0

10 = 0

11 = 0

12 = 0

13 = 0

14 = 0

15 = 0

16 = 0

17 = 1

18 = 2

19 = 4

20 = 6

21 = 8

22 = 12

23 = 20

24 = 35

25 = 50

26 = 61

27 = 64

28 = 64

29 = 64

30 = 64

31 = 64

32 = 64

33 = 64

34 = 64

35 = 64

36 = 64

37 = 64

38 = 64

39 = 64

40 = 64

41 = 64

42 = 64

43 = 64

44 = 64

45 = 64

46 = 64

47 = 64

48 = 64

49 = 64

50 = 64

51 = 64

52 = 64

53 = 64

54 = 64

55 = 64

56 = 64

57 = 64

58 = 64

59 = 64

60 = 64

61 = 64

62 = 64

63 = 64

64 = 64

I haven't started to tune out the higher end of the Input pts yet..

[Sydneykid]

Hi again,

While tuning my IEBC it doesn't seem to have the same boost curve in every gear..

In 3rd or below the curve is about the same.. but in 4th gear onwards it seems to overboost like mad..

The thing I noticed is that while in 2rd or 3rd.. with all Output pts set to 0 (soleniod closed).. boost gets to 15psi at an earlier Input pt than in 4th or 5th gear.. Should it behave this way?

By the way I have a 1.15mm vent.. This shouldn't matter as the soleniod is completely closed..

Below is my boost map.. Does anyone have any ideas? Theories? 

1 = 0

2 = 0

3 = 0

4 = 0

5 = 0

6 = 0

7 = 0

8 = 0

9 = 0

10 = 0

11 = 0

12 = 0

13 = 0

14 = 0

15 = 0

16 = 0

17 = 1

18 = 2

19 = 4

20 = 6

21 = 8

22 = 12

23 = 20

24 = 35

25 = 50

26 = 61

27 = 64

............

64 = 64

I haven't started to tune out the higher end of the Input pts yet..

You really need to tune to the higher load points, I have a long hill that I use. If I try and tune it on the flat, I am doing warp speed before I get to the injector durations that correspond with the higher load points.

I few things I noticed;

1. The IEBC uses injector duty as its reference, so you get different boost levels depending on throttle position. It doesn't produce the same boost at 70% throttle at 4,000 rpm as it does at 100% throttle at 4,000 rpm. This is a big advantage as it makes the engine more responsive to throttle inputs.

2. Since the IEBC uses injector duty as its reference, you get different boost levels depending on load, rpm is somewhat irrelevant. That means 2nd gear at 3,000 rpm is not going to have the same boost climb rate as 3,000 rpm in 4th gear. This is normal turbo and exhaust gas velocity. Not a lot to do with the IEBC, although by keeping the wastegate fully closed, it maximises the boost under all circumstances. Hence you will get a difference in the boost climb in 2nd ie; it won't be as fast at 4th.

3. Because of the above, I find that I don't have to change down when accelerating in top gear as much as I would with other styles of boost controller. I get good (fast) boost climb in top at 80kph by just squeezing the throttle. So it feels like I have a differeent boost curve programmed into the IEBC, but I don't. It's the turbo characteristics driven by the extra exhaust gas flow in the higher gears (more load).

4. I spent a bit of time tuning the boost curve to suite my personal taste. I went for a maximum boost target (0.7 bar in my case) and then tuned the boost climb to be as fast as I could get it. I was limited (in how fast I had the boost rise) by the Stagea ECU, which picked up rapid changes in airflow and went R&R. Most of the time was spent on the transition load points, where I had to realy smooth the wastegate openings.

The first job is to set up the IEBC so that you never exceeed your maximum boost target. I found a video camera pointed at the Controller and the boost gauge was a big help, as I could play it back in slow motion and pick any areas of too high boost. Once you have that covered, then it's smoothing time.

It takes a little longer to set up than other EBC's, but it is worth it for the extra response and the achievement of the highest possible boost.

[fusi0n]

You really need to tune to the higher load points, I have a long hill that I use.  If I try and tune it on the flat, I am doing warp speed before I get to the injector durations that correspond with the higher load points.

I few things I noticed;

1. The IEBC uses injector duty as its reference, so you get different boost levels depending on throttle position.  It doesn't produce the same boost at 70% throttle at 4,000 rpm as it does at 100% throttle at 4,000 rpm.  This is a big advantage as it makes the engine more responsive to throttle inputs.

2. Since the IEBC uses injector duty as its reference, you get different boost levels depending on load, rpm is somewhat irrelevant.  That means 2nd gear at 3,000 rpm is not going to have the same boost climb rate as 3,000 rpm in 4th gear.  This is normal turbo and exhaust gas velocity.  Not a lot to do with the IEBC, although by keeping the wastegate fully closed, it maximises the boost under all circumstances.  Hence you will get a difference in the boost climb in 2nd ie; it won't be as fast at 4th.

3. Because of the above, I find that I don't have to change down when accelerating in top gear as much as I would with other styles of boost controller.  I get good (fast) boost climb in top at 80kph by just squeezing the throttle.  So it feels like I have a differeent boost curve programmed into the IEBC, but I don't.  It's the turbo characteristics driven by the extra exhaust gas flow in the higher gears (more load).

4. I spent a bit of time tuning the boost curve to suite my personal taste.  I went for a maximum boost target (0.7 bar in my case) and then tuned the boost climb to be as fast as I could get it.  I was limited (in how fast I had the boost rise) by the Stagea ECU, which picked up rapid changes in airflow and went R&R.  Most of the time was spent on the transition load points, where I had to realy smooth the wastegate openings.

The first job is to set up the IEBC so that you never exceeed your maximum boost target.  I found a video camera pointed at the Controller and the boost gauge was a big help, as I could play it back in slow motion and pick any areas of too high boost.  Once you have that covered, then it's smoothing time.

It takes a little longer to set up than other EBC's, but it is worth it for the extra response and the achievement of the highest possible boost.

Thanks for your quick reply SK,

I'm still a little confused about this..

If I set all the Output pts to 0. Regardless of throttle position, should I get the same boost (give/take a little) at Input pt 19 in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears? (On a flat road)

If the answer is yes, then my car doesn't behave this way.. I get much higher boost at Input pt 19 in 4th gear compared to 3rd gear. About 15psi in 4th compared to 11psi in 3rd.

Does Input pt 19 mean different load in different gears?

[Sydneykid]

Thanks for your quick reply SK,

I'm still a little confused about this..

1. If I set all the Output pts to 0. Regardless of throttle position, should I get the same boost (give/take a little) at Input pt 19 in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears? (On a flat road)

2. If the answer is yes, then my car doesn't behave this way.. I get much higher boost at Input pt 19 in 4th gear compared to 3rd gear. About 15psi in 4th compared to 11psi in 3rd.

3. Does Input pt 19 mean different load in different gears?

Suggestions follow;

1. Nope, not in my experience

2. Yep, that's what I would expect, the higher gear means more load on the engine and therefore more exhaust gas flow. Hence more boost.

3. Nope, input point 19 corresponds with a certain injector duration.

I know where you are going, but don't worry about it. Because you have the wastegate closed, you are getting more boost at the IEBC input point than you would have if you had limited the boost. So the injector duration is higher than it would be if you had limited the boost, because the airflow is higher.

It's a closed loop (well almost), start limiting the boost (by opening the wategate) and you won't have a problem, because the injector duration will change. This will mean a different input point on the IEBC, which you have set at a different wastegate opening. As I said, it's a circle, by not limiting the maximum boost you have broken the circle.

I have read that again and it makes sense to me, I hope it makes sense to you.

[fusi0n]

Suggestions follow;

1. Nope, not in my experience

2. Yep, that's what I would expect, the higher gear means more load on the engine and therefore more exhaust gas flow.  Hence more boost.

3. Nope, input point 19 corresponds with a certain injector duration.

I know where you are going, but don't worry about it.  Because you have the wastegate closed, you are getting more boost at the IEBC input point than you would have if you had limited the boost.  So the injector duration is higher than it would be if you had limited the boost, because the airflow is higher.

It's a closed loop (well almost), start limiting the boost (by opening the wategate) and you won't have a problem, because the injector duration will change.  This will mean a different input point on the IEBC, which you have set at a different wastegate opening.  As I said, it's a circle, by not limiting the maximum boost you have broken the circle.

I have read that again and it makes sense to me, I hope it makes sense to you.

Yeah that makes sense. I guess I just need to play around more..

Thanks for the info SK.

Back on the road for me..

[PTR33]

I have had one of the bost controllers installed in my Galant VR4 for a couple of weeks now and it works really well.

It took a while to get the maps set up, the first one was a bugger but I used those figures as a base for the high map.

I now have two nice stable, faster spooling maps, one at 12psi and one at 17psi.

The only problem I had in building the kits was I got the wrong cable (as others have done) and all I could get on the display was a row of squares.

DO NOT BUY A "LAPLINK" OR "NULL MODEM" CABLE.

YOU NEED A RS232 SERIAL CABLE.

Both have DB25 plugs on each end but the internal wiring is different!!

After I bought the recommended Jaycar part number cable it worked fine.

Perhaps jaycar need a bit of feedback about this trap as it was the source of hours of frustration for me.

Overall I give this boost controller 7.5 out of 10

It gets top marks for value and operation (once finally set up) but loses points for difficulty in setting up and the trap of the "wrong cable".

[Oosh]

I lot of the problems people are having on here relate to simply not being methodical about the build / install / config process. I know it's exciting, you've got a new toy, at a bargain price. But you need to read and re-read the documentation, don't rush things, approach it like the chippy's old adage "measure twice, cut once". (please don't cut your IEBC )

That said, I think the Autospeed/Jaycar documentation IS somewhat lacking, it's aimed at Electronics enthusiasts with Cars, not Car enthusiasts who can hold a soldering iron, which seem to be the majority of its consumers.

Personally i had very few dramas, and am very happy with the product, one day i'll get around to better integrating my install rather than having to manually switch it ON/OFF by earthing it to the cigarette lighter.

[Sydneykid]

one day i'll get around to better integrating my install rather than having to manually switch it ON/OFF by earthing it to the cigarette lighter.

I wired the power for the IEBC and the DFA to the ECU wiring, both active and earth. So there is one nice neat cable set going from the IEBC and the DFA in the glove box to the ECU, with no separate wires. That way they turn on and off with the ECU. They certainly don't draw anywhere near enough current for this to be a problem.

[Oosh]

I wired the power for the IEBC and the DFA to the ECU wiring, both active and earth.  So there is one nice neat cable set going from the IEBC and the DFA in the glove box to the ECU, with no separate wires.  That way they turn on and off with the ECU.  They certainly don't draw anywhere near enough current for this to be a problem.

Yeah i saw that in your earlier posts, and intend to do the same, one day. But it works atm and i have more pressing things that need fixing on the car.