Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[Sydneykid]

a question about the boost controller, I dont know if its been answered yet and I dont feel like reading 17 pages at 1am so...

as the boost controller runs off duty cycle, when the ecu detects knock and jacks up the fuel, the boost controller will perform incorrectly due to the higher duty cycle right? what effect would this have and is there a way to counter this?

On page #6 there is a copy of my IEBC map;

1 - 0==The wastegate is closed to ensure the fastest boost build

2 - 0

3 - 0

4 - 0

5 - 0

6 - 0

7 - 0

8 - 0

9 - 0

10 - 0

11 - 0

12 - 0

13 - 0

14 - 1= Slowly opening the solenoid

15 - 2= I found it I went too fast it would surge between settings

16 - 4=This is because the boost builds very quickly

17 - 6=Especially with the standard turbo

18 - 8

19 - 10

20 - 20

21 - 30= It realy builds boost very fast here

22 - 50=So I had to step up the rate of climb

23 - 50

24 - 70

25 - 90= This is the max opening needed to hold the boost at 0.6 bar

26 - 90

27 - 90

28 - 90

29 - 90

30 - 90

31 - 90

32 - 90

33 - 90

34 - 90

35 - 90

36 - 90

37 - 90

38 - 90

39 - 90

40 - 90

41 - 90

42 - 90

43 - 90

44 - 90

45 - 90

46 - 90

47 - 90

48 - 85= I found the boost dropped off slightly

49 - 85= So I closed the wastegate slightly

50 - 85

51 - 85

52 - 85

53 - 85

54 - 85

55 - 80= Needed a little more to hold 0.6 bar

56 - 80

57 - 80

58 - 80

59 - 80

60 - 80

61 - 80

62 - 80

63 - 80

64 - 80

So to answer your question;

1. The normal ECU R&R strategy kicks in around load point 30 to 35 (90% solenoid closure) as the boost is rapidly ramping up. If the ECU moves the fuel map to say load point 40 to 45 (to richen it up for protection) then the solenoid duty is still 90%. Even if it move to load point 50 to 55 the solenoid duty cycle is still 85%, hardly an difference.

2. When the standard ECU goes R&R it also retards (the second "R") the ignition timing. This lowers the exhaust gas velocity and the turbine slows down, therebye producing less boost.

A MAP sensor driven EBC would close the wastegate at this point to try and keep the boost at the target setting. So the way I look at it the IEBC mirrors the standard ECU and doesn't attempt to overide its R&R protection strategy.

Hope that answered your question:cheers:

[Sydneykid]

great stuff guys!!!!

how much amps could the iebc handle?  

isnt it the perfect nitrous controller?  

greetings from germany

Heiko

Hi Heiko, Jaycar have that covered

STOCK-CODE: KC5382 RRP: $24.95

Qty 1+ $24.95 Qty 5+ $22.35

Nitrous Fuel Mixture / Motor Speed Controller

Ref: High Performance Electronic Projects for Cars - Silicon Chip Publications.

Pulse a fuel injector in a nitrous system. When activated, it will fire the injector at a preset duty cycle, adding a fixed amount of nitrous fuel. This is a far cheaper alternative to a dedicated fuel solenoid and jets. It also makes a great motor controller, to control an electronic water pump, additional fuel pump, cooling fans and more. It is suitable for use with most fuel injectors, or pumps and motors up to 10 amps. Kit supplied with PCB and all electronic components.

* Please note that the use of Nitrous Oxide systems is for race use only. Use of these systems on the street is illegal.

Then there is;

STOCK-CODE: KC5384 RRP: $79.95

Qty 1+ $79.95 Qty 5+ $71.95

Digital Pulse Adjuster

Ref: High Performance Electronic Projects for Cars - Silicon Chip Publications.

This unit is another huge step up in DIY automotive performance upgrades. It allows you to control and tune the operation of any solenoid that is run by the engine management system. This means that you could control turbo boost without an expensive boost controller, or alter automatic transmission line pressures for better shifts. Alternatively, it can be used to drive and control an extra fuel injector. Additional fuel injectors are commonly tapped into the throttle body to stop critical lean out under high load, high boost conditions. You can now add the injector with +/- 127 step mapping at 128 different duty cycle points. This allows superior fuel control, previously achieved only with an expensive fuel management system. Kit supplied with PCB, machined case, and all electronic components. Kit requires the Handheld Digital Controller - KC-5386.

Plenty of options there

[Oosh]

For those interested, Autospeed ran a two-part Technical Article on the IEBC, pretty sure they're free access (good advertising).

Part 1 - http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2541/article.html

Part 2 - http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_2542/article.html

[benl1981]

SK - That makes sense what you are saying about the R&R. I have found that sometimes boost drops from 0.65bar to about 0.4 bar. I think maybe it is the rich and retard. If I set boost to 0.5bar it will stay bretty close to that up to redline. Up the boost and I must be getting R&R hence loosing boost as the ECU senses too much airflow?

[CEF11E]

OK i need some help.

I have boilt the DFA and I am having issues and dont want to blow it or my car up so I need help from someone who has installed one.

The DFA powers up perfectly, I can go into VIEW, RUN and LOCK modes. I can also scroll thru all load points and voltage incraments.

here is a diagram

AS you can see i have supplied 12.1V and ground to the input and that allows me to srcoll thru all the functions.

I have connected 5.1V to the input of the DFA (green wire) i know 5.1V is not perfect but i dont have a lab power supply so i am using an ATX computer power supply.

I have then measured the output of the DFA/multimeter/ground.

the problem is the output is 5.1V no matter what i do.

I am not sure if i am measuring it correctly and need help.

Anyone in sydney care to help me?

there is beer in it for you

any advice would be greatly appreciated

[Sydneykid]

OK i need some help.

I have boilt the DFA and I am having issues and dont want to blow it or my car up so I need help from someone who has installed one.

The DFA powers up perfectly, I can go into VIEW, RUN and LOCK modes. I can also scroll thru all load points and voltage incraments.

here is a diagram

AS you can see i have supplied 12.1V and ground to the input and that allows me to srcoll thru all the functions.

I have connected 5.1V to the input of the DFA (green wire) i know 5.1V is not perfect but i dont have a lab power supply so i am using an ATX computer power supply.

I have then measured the output  of the DFA/multimeter/ground.

the problem is the output is 5.1V no matter what i do.

I am not sure if i am measuring it correctly and need help.

Anyone in sydney care to help me?

there is beer in it for you

any advice would be greatly appreciated

You should be able to reduce the output voltage using the controller on that particular load point. But the 5.1 volts may be off the scale of the load points. Maybe try putting a resister in series with your 5.1 volt supply to lower it down around 4 volts. That should give you a load point that you can adjust.

Let me know how you get on:cheers:

[Oosh]

Ignore this post

[Sydneykid]

One sec, the OUT just switches to ground, with the multi-meter hooked up between GND & OUT as you show there, there shouldn't be any voltage evident, ever.

Also IN is expecting a pulsed signal not a constant voltage in.

The easiest way to test it is to hook up the 12V and GND, then run the IN to Inj #1 at the ECU, and ignore OUT for the moment. Give the car a rev and see if the load points shift around, then play around with the Hand-controller and watch the output LED change.

He has a DFA not an IEBC:cheers:

[Oosh]

He has a DFA not an IEBC:cheers:

So he does, I'm an idiot, post culled.

[CEF11E]

hehe funny!!!

thanks for your advice SK.

I got it working perfectly

I had a couple of issues. and anyone else using a 12v powersupply should also trim down VR4 so it switches in at 11V (all the way clockwise) otherwise if the powersupply drops the dfa will switch off.

once that was sorted it was easy to calibrate and test the DFA

Its going in the car tomorrow . but I dont want to tune it untill i have cleaned the injectors.

[SAM112]

SK, would you let me fly you to the gold coast, give you accomodation and pay you by the hour to make/install/tune this for me? lol

[predator]

I can build ya one sam.. although the one I built isn't working so lol, maybe i am not the best person after all But I am working on tracking down the problem, hopefully getting it working.

I've been checking all the voltages on page 117, and all appear within spec. So I don't know what is going on.. and I am getting 5V at TP2 when 5V applied to input, so it may even be working?? It's possible I have stuffed something whilst building the hand controller. I have to go over that again too.. Spent about 4-5 hours trying to check everything - so frustrating when it doesn't work !

[Sydneykid]

SK, would you let me fly you to the gold coast, give you accomodation and pay you by the hour to make/install/tune this for me? lol

Sorry, it's a good offer, but I can't seem to find enough time to finish the Stagea upgrade and tune. I might be able to build and test one for you though. I promised one of our mechanics I would build a DFA and IEBC for his R33GTST. So building 2 at once is not much harder. As long as you aren't in a hurry of course.

[CEF11E]

I have the DFA in the car and have given the car a light tune using a wideband o2 sensor (I would not reccomend doing this as you are quite often doing 140kmph to get the right AFR's at load in a high gear)

I was able to get 12.5 to 1 almost all the way thru the rev range.

0000 to 2000 RPM 13 to 1. no boost and cruising.

2000 to 3200 RPM 12.5 to 1. from 0 psi to full boost.

3200 to 4500 RPM 11.5 to 1. otherwise it would put too much timing in.

4500 to 7000 RPM 12.5 to 1. pretty happy here!

the tune took me pressing buttons and a freind driving about an hour.

I am very happy with the result. and I havent dynoed it yet but will give a before and after figure as soon as i dyno it. as i also want to check to see if the afr's are correct on another o2 sensor.

but i would have to say with no other mods I would estimate a 25RWKW gain in the midrange and top end

pretty cheap 20 odd rwkw if you ask me!!!

[Sydneykid]

I have the DFA in the car and have given the car a light tune using a wideband o2 sensor (I would not reccomend doing this as you are quite often doing 140kmph to get the right AFR's at load in a high gear)

I was able to get 12.5 to 1 almost all the way thru the rev range.

0000 to 2000 RPM                        13 to 1. no boost and cruising.

2000 to 3200 RPM                        12.5 to 1. from 0 psi to full boost.

3200 to 4500 RPM                        11.5 to 1. otherwise it would put too much timing in.

4500 to 7000 RPM                        12.5 to 1. pretty happy here!

the tune took me pressing buttons and a freind driving about an hour.

I am very happy with the result. and I havent dynoed it yet but will give a before and after figure as soon as i dyno it. as i also want to check to see if the afr's are correct on another o2 sensor.

but i would have to say with no other mods I would estimate a 25RWKW gain in the midrange and top end

pretty cheap 20 odd rwkw if you ask me!!!

Yep, tuning on the flat can see warpspeed. Much better to tune it on the track, although I have a couple of long hills near my place that give enough load in 2nd and 3rd gear. Looking forward to getting the new LM1, so I can do it on my own using the logging channels:cheers:

[tang0]

just built this device after having it sit on my shelf for a few months ...

dont have much time to spend going on drives to set it up, anyone recommend a tuner that could get it setup in sydney ?? pref around chatswood or sutherland ...

cheers

[Sydneykid]

just built this device after having it sit on my shelf for a few months ...  

dont have much time to spend going on drives to set it up, anyone recommend a tuner that could get it setup in sydney ?? pref around chatswood or sutherland ...

cheers

Which one did you build, the DFA or the IEBC?

[tang0]

both !!!

i actally have sold my gtst due to the mrs not liking it, and it sucking major fuel ...

am going for a slightly cheaper car for a couple of years while i save up for a 350z track or similar ...

this is going onto an mr2 turbo ...

i've had a couple of mr2's in the past, and always found them to be heaps of fun, and handle extremely well ...

cheers

[tang0]

sweet, got them both built, dug out some serial cables, and both iebc and dfa seem to work fine ... calibrated dfa no probs on a pc psu, will install this weekend and see how it goes ...

anyone know of someone to tune them on a dyno with a decent o2 sensor ?

cheers

[Sydneykid]

sweet, got them both built, dug out some serial cables, and both iebc and dfa seem to work fine ... calibrated dfa no probs on a pc psu, will install this weekend and see how it goes ...

anyone know of someone to tune them on a dyno with a decent o2 sensor ?

cheers

The same guy who tuned your R33 :idea: