Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[Hetz]

Wahey!

just tested my controller and its working.

Now need to fit it in the car, but as allways here in the uk its friggin raining!

Hetz

[ian]

Wahey!

just tested my controller and its working.

Now need to fit it in the car, but as allways here in the uk its friggin raining!

Hetz

Of course it's raining - it's your summer time! Wait a second, it rains in winter too!

Just joking, though I always found it strange (when I lived in London) that people were complaining about how hot it was when it (rarely) got into the high 20's! :-)

Ian

[Sydneykid]

Hi guys,  

just had a quck query i just finished building my kit, but have one resistor left over.

Its a white block type one it says on the resistor 10w-10RJ

Does anyone know what its for?

cheers

hetz

Load sharing for the solenoid, the Nissan solenoids don't need it.

[_cap_]

load sharing ..whats that

[Sydneykid]

load sharing ..whats that

Some solenoids (NOT the standard Nissan ones) don't like being held open for long periods of time and they get hot. So you use the 10 ohm 10 watt resistor in series with the solenoid to "share" the load. That way the solenoid draws less current and doesn't get too hot.

PS; for more details refer to page 142 of the book "Performance Electronics for Cars".

[_cap_]

ahh k so u use the resitor to drop the voltage across the solenoid ....but then doesnt the ibc switch more than the 3 amps its rated for ?

[Sydneykid]

ahh k so u use the resitor to drop the voltage across the solenoid ....but then doesnt the ibc switch more than the 3 amps its rated for ?

Ooops, that'll teach me to write things form memory, should be "series". Previous post amended:cheers:

[_cap_]

gotta get that book i think ...specially if im gonna do the air fuel controller

[Hetz]

Load sharing for the solenoid, the Nissan solenoids don't need it.

Ah righty!

i might need to use one on mine then, i dont have a nissan, i have a rover. Still havent got round to fitting it in the car yet. Im hoping it will work well, as the rover doesnt use a AFM, it just relies on a map sensor.

Hetz

[Hetz]

right,

I got my controller fitted in the car but am having problems reading a injector duty cycle

With just the power to the unit, led 1 and led 2 are lite up on the board? i thought only led 1 was supposed to light up?

Ive tapped the injector wire and i dont get any reading at all on the controller? also the led just stayes lite up?

any clues as to whats going on?

cheers for you help

Hetz

[Sydneykid]

right,

I got my controller fitted in the car but am having problems reading a injector duty cycle

With just the power to the unit, led 1 and led 2 are lite up on the board? i thought only led 1 was supposed to light up?

Ive tapped the injector wire and i dont get any reading at all on the controller? also the led just stayes lite up?

any clues as to whats going on?

cheers for you help  

Hetz

Make sure you are using the correct wire on the ECU pin outs, it is soooo easy to use the wrong one.

[_cap_]

yeh i tapped off the wrong one at first as well ...was tapped into the spark ...but also make sure its tuned in by turning the variable resister

[MANWHOR3]

I am having problems with my Jaycar ebc. Car is r33 gtst

The unit is working fine. I.e. it reads the injector duty fine, the display works fine etc, I can change the solenoid duty cycle and I hear it clicking quicker or slower.

I believe there is a problem with my plumbing. With the solenoid fully open, I have no boost control. In 1 second, from 5psi, it went to 15 psi. I will be more careful in the future not to over boost again.

I am running a vent size of 1.2 mm.

I believe that I have the vent plumbed into the wrong place. I plumbed it where the stock solenoid bled to. However, I am also unsure if it was plumbed to the right place, as the hose had been changed to a blue hose by the previous owner.

Reason I believe it might not be venting to the right place? with the vent blocked off, i.e. plenum > solenoid > waste gate, it works fine. changing the solenoid duty changes the boost build and max psi it reaches.

however, with the vent connected, it has no boost control. Therefore I have come to the conclusion that the vent is reliving the pressure that should be used to open the waste gate.

I have it plumbed as follows:

intake > bottom nipple of solenoid

top nipple of solenoid > t piece

t piece nipple 1 > waste gate

t piece nipple 2 (1.2 mm hole) > bov return pipe.

Questions:

1. which of the solenoid nipples is the in? it's the bottom one right?

2. what is the problem with my hose plumbing? Is the vent in the right place? Is it meant to be connected to the bov return pipe?

So why don't I have boost control? the difference is simply vent = not working, no vent = working fine. Therefore I assume it has something to do with either the vent size or where it is connected. a 1.2 mm vent is already very small.

Cheers

[Sydneykid]

I am having problems with my Jaycar ebc. Car is r33 gtst

The unit is working fine. I.e. it reads the injector duty fine, the display works fine etc, I can change the solenoid duty cycle and I hear it clicking quicker or slower.

I believe there is a problem with my plumbing. With the solenoid fully open, I have no boost control. In 1 second, from 5psi, it went to 15 psi. I will be more careful in the future not to over boost again.

I am running a vent size of 1.2 mm.

I believe that I have the vent plumbed into the wrong place. I plumbed it where the stock solenoid bled to. However, I am also unsure if it was plumbed to the right place, as the hose had been changed to a blue hose by the previous owner.

Reason I believe it might not be venting to the right place? with the vent blocked off, i.e. plenum > solenoid > waste gate, it works fine. changing the solenoid duty changes the boost build and max psi it reaches.

however, with the vent connected, it has no boost control. Therefore I have come to the conclusion that the vent is reliving the pressure that should be used to open the waste gate.

I have it plumbed as follows:

intake > bottom nipple of solenoid

top nipple of solenoid > t piece

t piece nipple 1 > waste gate

t piece nipple 2 (1.2 mm hole) > bov return pipe.

Questions:

1. which of the solenoid nipples is the in? it's the bottom one right?

2. what is the problem with my hose plumbing? Is the vent in the right place? Is it meant to be connected to the bov return pipe?

So why don't I have boost control? the difference is simply vent = not working, no vent = working fine. Therefore I assume it has something to do with either the vent size or where it is connected. a 1.2 mm vent is already very small.

Cheers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

As per this previously posted picture (on page 2 of this thread)

As you can see the boost feed (from the intercooler pipework) goes into the top fitting on the solenoid.

The bottom fitting on the solenoid goes to the T piece. The RHS of the T piece goes to the wastegate actuator. The hose coming of the LHS of the T piece has the vent in it, that hose goes to the inlet pipe of the turbo (in combination with the standard BOV return).

As a clarification, back on page 16 of this thread I posted this diagram;

As you can see from the above diagram (page 136 of the Performance Electronics for Cars) the size of the "vent" determines how much airflow goes to the wastegate actuator. If the vent is too big, not enough air flows to it and the diaphram doesn't move (open the wastegate) and you get no boost control (it just keeps going up).

The first thing I would do is run the vent to atmosphere, as it is in the above diagram. Then see if the IEBC controls boost OK Don't forget to block off the hose.

Hope that is some help

[GDZ1LA]

has anyone tried this fuel adjuster kit, like a vine pressure controller?

eg get a gm2bar map sensor or similar and rem map for map sensing replacing the afm altogether? gm's run 0-5v like most map sensors,

a map semsor must have a similar voltage curve to a afm?

low volts under vacume or low loads, higher volts under high loads or boost? this also would work fine in closed loop mode? any input from anyone thats tried it? may be a much better alternatve for me, im running twin turbos with a rb20 ecu and dont want afms, or to change to a rb26 ecu and run more wires for the rear afm,

[Sydneykid]

has anyone tried this fuel adjuster kit, like a vine pressure controller?

eg get a gm2bar map sensor or similar and rem map for map sensing replacing the afm altogether? gm's run 0-5v like most map sensors,

a map semsor must have a similar voltage curve to a afm?

low volts under vacume or low loads, higher volts under high loads or boost? this also would work fine in closed loop mode? any input from anyone thats tried it? may be a much better alternatve for me, im running twin turbos with a rb20 ecu and dont want afms, or to change to a rb26 ecu and run more wires for the rear afm,

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

AFM's are the best load source by far, MAP sensors are not even close. Because you can have the same pressure at different loads, only an AFM can tell you the CORRECT load. My advice (as always) is to use the best load sensor, and that's an AFM.

As for the problem of running wires for the extra AFM, you don't have to. Simply parrallel up the outputs of the 2 X AFM's and feed that via the standard wiring harness. The ECU sees the movements in the voltages of the 2 X AFM's as a single change, so you tune as you would if it had only one AFM.

cheers

[emanuelt]

With the DFA is it best to use fine or coarse mode with the Stagea?

My kit is all made so far so good.

[emanuelt]

I am up to the stage of calibrating the DFA. I am not able to change the volage with the test pot, I tried to wire it up like FIG.6 in book, but I am not sure if its right? I've got it connected to the car battery and it reads 12.5V, try to get it to 12V with test pot but does not change V at all? As pic shows how I had it set up, is it wrong? any sugestions? Thanks

[xRHETTx]

The DFA has to be actually "on" to get any output, so if you set the DFA to turn on at 14 volts (car running condition) you need to apply 14V to get any output.

[emanuelt]

The DFA has to be actually "on" to get any output, so if you set the DFA to turn on at 14 volts (car running condition) you need to apply 14V to get any output.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I had it set to under 12V so it was on with red LED on too.