Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[elbee111]

I though it might be handy if I added the ECU pins I intend to use;

Fuel Adjuster;

Red = 12 volts + * Pin 31

Black = 12 volts - * Pin 32

Green = input from AFM * the cut wire that used to go to Pin 54

Black = output to ECU (where the AFM used to be connected)* Pin 54

Boost Controller;

Red = 12 volts + * Pin 31

Black = 12 volts -  * Pin 32

Green = input from injector * Pin 101 (cylinder #1)

Black = output to the standard solenoid * the cut wire that used to go to Pin 104

I have now fully tested them and the connections are as posted above.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Emanuelt,

I am referring to this. The pins may be different but, the idea is that the standard solenoid only gets its signal from the IEBC. (see 2nd last line)

El Bee

[benl1981]

Just bought the kits but now Im having second thoughts.

Car is R33 with 3" exhaust, R34 cooler and 10psi.

I know a PFC will be better but how much better?????

Say PFC $950 + $400 for dyno tune

= $1350

vs

Jaycar components

$140 + $200 dyno

= $340

I'm not planning on going bigger turbo this is the end of the mods. Is 170-180rwkw realistic considering my mods? Am I loosing a lot of midrange compared to a powerfc ?

I know a PFC is a lot better for tuning but I am hoping to get 90% results for a fraction of the price of PFC. If I was going bigger turbo I would buy PFC for sure.

Just read somewhere that 195kw PFC vs 195KW SAFC tune is a lot different? Is this true?

I mainly got the DFA to try and get the comp to stop going into Rich and retard and the car feels a bit slack around the 4000rpm mark...

Hopefully the DFA will improve fuel consumption a little aswell....at close to $1.40/litre! Currently get about 12L/100km, 10-11L/100km would be nice

On the dyno the car was going to AFR of about 10:1 on std boost. What is reasonable to lean it out to 12 or 12.5:1 presuming you dont get pinging...?

Edited September 4, 2005 by benl1981

[benl1981]

sydneykid your thoughts??

Edited September 4, 2005 by benl1981

[Sydneykid]

Just bought the kits but now Im having second thoughts. 

Car is R33 with 3" exhaust, R34 cooler and 10psi. 

I know a PFC will be better but how much better?????

Say PFC $950 + $400 for dyno tune

= $1350

vs

Jaycar components

$140 + $200 dyno

= $340

I'm not planning on going bigger turbo this is the end of the mods.  Is 170-180rwkw realistic considering my mods?  Am I loosing a lot of midrange compared to a powerfc ?

I know a PFC is a lot better for tuning but I am hoping to get 90% results for a fraction of the price of PFC.  If I was going bigger turbo I would buy PFC for sure.

Just read somewhere that 195kw PFC vs 195KW SAFC tune is a lot different?  Is this true?

I mainly got the DFA to try and get the comp to stop going into Rich and retard and the car feels a bit slack around the 4000rpm mark...

Hopefully the DFA will improve fuel consumption a little aswell....at close to $1.40/litre!  Currently get about 12L/100km, 10-11L/100km would be nice

On the dyno the car was going to AFR of about 10:1 on std boost.  What is reasonable to lean it out to 12 or 12.5:1 presuming you dont get pinging...?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

An A/F ratio of 12 to 1 is OK. For a standard turbo the DFA should be fine. You will have a slight compromise on the ignition timing versus A/F ratio. But it won't be dramatic. At 10 psi you will find the A/F ratio gets into the 9's, so 12 is a big improvement. Fitting the DFA to the Stagea gave ~10% improvement in fuel economy.

cheers

[benl1981]

Nice...

Thanks for that...how about the DFA vs PFC argument for these mod levels..would there be much difference in say 0-100km/h times or seat of the pants?

I mean if the car is close to detonation and you are close to you 12:1 AFR the PFC cant really improve on that can it. Just has the benefit of pulling out timing when needed.

Sound reasonable or will you feel quite a bit more average power with PFC??

Edited September 4, 2005 by benl1981

[Sydneykid]

Nice...

Thanks for that...how about the DFA vs PFC argument for these mod levels..would there be much difference in say 0-100km/h times or seat of the pants?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

It all depends on how good the tuner is, plus every engine is different. So there is no way I could tell how much better it would be with a PFC. As I said in the previous post, a DFA and standard turbo is OK. Good value for money option.

Let's face it, you will be easily able to sell the DFA for more than it cost, if you choose to go PFC in the future.

cheers

[benl1981]

Fair enough - thanks for all your help.

Give it a go..like you say could sell it if it doesn't turn out to be adequate. Where do you go for tuning or you just tuned it yourself on the dyno right??

I thinking BEL garage in homebush....quoted about $160

Edited September 4, 2005 by benl1981

[Sydneykid]

Fair enough - thanks for all your help.

Give it a go..like you say could sell it if it doesn't turn out to be adequate.  Where do you go for tuning or you just tuned it yourself on the dyno right??

I thinking BEL garage in homebush....quoted about $160

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Dyno Dave and I tuned the DFA in the Stagea on the race ream dyno, took about 1/2 an hour. Simple stuff, once you get accustomed to the Controller buttons and how much adjustment you need ot change the A/F ratios.

cheers

[benl1981]

Cool..

I think the SAFC2 reads out the knock levels on the screen. Is there any cheap way for me to take the output of the knock sesor and convert it to numbers you can read in the cabin?

What is the output voltage 0-5v or 0-1v

thanks

Edited September 4, 2005 by benl1981

[Sydneykid]

Cool..

I think the SAFC2 reads out the knock levels on the screen. Is there any cheap way for me to take the output of the knock sesor and convert it to numbers you can read in the cabin?

What is the output voltage 0-5v or 0-1v

thanks

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Do you want the knock levels for tuning or just for ongoing viewing?

Impakt (refer to the Group Buy section) has a consult output screeen that will display every sensor input and quite a few of the ECU outputs as well. Very usefull diagnostic tool that works on almost all Nissans.

If just for tuning. any decent dyno shop will have a set of "ears", there is no better knock reader than the human ear.

cheers

[Panikin]

The Consult does not read knock, Impakt said that it is not available through it.It only tells you if they are working or not.

I am working on a Knock Reader which is tapped into the sensors, they seem to operate between 4v at idle, start up & cranking and drop in volts as more knock is detected.

This may take awhile as work is taking most of my time.

Edited September 5, 2005 by Panikin

[emanuelt]

SK - As I still need to fine tune my IEBC I noticed my reading are up and down alot, I solderd up the restricter a bit so my highest input levels will be different of corse but maybe I should take the solder back out and have it like yours more. It mainly sits on 10psi but sometimes when the auto changes down a gear and really gets reving it can hit 14psi for a second before it settles down but reving it from the same gear it won't go higher than 10psi?

Here are the current readouts. Tuned on the road.

1=0

2=0

3=0

4=0

5=0

6=0

7=0

8=0

9=0

10=1

11=2

12=4

13=6

14=8

15=12

16=16

17=20

18=28

19=30

20=27

21=25

22=23

23=20

24=19

25=20

26=20

27=21

28=23

29=24

30=25

31=25

32=25

33=25

34=25

35=26

36=26

37=27

38=28

39=28

40=29

41=29

42=30

43=30

44=30

45=30

Any sugestions? (It only needs to go to about input 45, doesent go any higher when driving)

[emanuelt]

Here is what the people on the dyno tune had. My previous post is on LOW setting, this one is on my HIGH setting. Some RPMs the actuator fluters if you hold it in the mid revs. Must be becuase the setting are jumping up and down too much.

1=0

2=0

3=0

4=0

5=0

6=0

7=0

8=0

9=0

10=4

11=8

12=12

13=18

14=22

15=25

16=30

17=32

18=32

19=23

20=16

21=16

22=17

23=17

24=17

25=16

26=16

27=16

28=18

29=20

30=20

31=20

32=22

33=23

34=24

35=24

36=24

37=24

38=24

39=24

40=22

41=20

42=20

43=20

44=20

45=18

[Sydneykid]

Wow, you sure have a lot of different solenoid duties. Mine doesn't have anywhere near that many. Maybe that's the problem, I don't have this sort of mapping;

13=18

14=22

15=25

16=30

17=32

18=32

19=23

20=16

When accelerating mine goes from load point 14 to load point 20 in about 200 milliseconds. That might be what is causing the flutter, 16 (load point 20) is half the duty cycle of 32 (load point 18). That's a lot of reverse (higher load point, lower duty cycle) solenoid activity.

In an auto you will get a slight flare in the boost on gear changes as you don't lift your foot (like you would in a manual to change gear) so you don't get a change in the injector duty cycle. I don't believe it is a problem as the standard ECU cuts/interrupts the ignition on the gearchange. The extra boost doesn't translate to extra load.

cheers

[emanuelt]

Thanks I'll try changing 12 to 20 and see what happens.

OK Changed the restricter size back to a bigger hole and adjusted the settings working great now!

[benl1981]

Just building the hand controller at the moment. There are 3 links (one under the D25 socket. They were not provided in the pack. Are they meant to be just bits of wire?

Also are you meant to fit something uder the other side of the LCD connector (washers or anything) - it angles down a bit

[AlexCim]

The links are just bits of wire yes

[benl1981]

Did yours come with it? I guess I'll just find some somewhere...

Thanks

PS How about the LCD screen...did you put spacers or anything under it?

Edited September 12, 2005 by benl1981

[AlexCim]

the wire links are just parts of the wire that is given to you, otherwise just use cut offs from the resistors/capacitors etc that you have made...bend em in shape

as for spacing, my hand controller is pretty dodgy...i have to solder the button holes bigger.

If you want it to sit flat

get some solder, melt it and hold it on the end of the soldering gun..then align all screen and just tac solder the thing in at two ends, then solder all the remaining areas...thats what i did, turned out fine....

[Sydneykid]

Did yours come with it?  I guess I'll just find some somewhere...

Thanks

PS How about the LCD screen...did you put spacers or anything under it?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

There are plastic spacers in the kit.

cheers