Jump to content
SAU Community

Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Are they the threaded spacers (they look too fat I think)?  The other ones are just like washers (not fat enough)...

I'll finish it off tonight - but did your screen sit completely flat or tilited slightly? 

thanks guys

My screen is completely flat. Sorry I can't remember what spacers I used and I can't just take a look as my Controller is out on loan at the moment.

:D cheers :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The LCD screen is held in place with two screws. One in the top left and one in the top right. These go though the main board and into the case. You have to solder the connections from the LCD screen to the main board.

The spacers go under the main board between it and the case. The top 2 screws go through the LCD board, through the main board through 2 spacers and screw into the case. The bottom 2 screws go through the main board, through 2 spacers and screw into the case.

If you don't put the spacers in between the case and the main board the buttons won't stick up far enough for you to push down, and the LCD screen will have a gap between it and the lid.

Have a look on Page 106 of the Performance Electronics for Cars, if you don't have one, I strongly suggest you spend the $20 and get one from Jaycar.

Hope that helps

:D cheers :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

More importantly - do you have to solder the LCD screen/board to the 14pin header?? I see it is copper lined on the holes in the LCD board so not sure if it needs to be soldered. Doesn't say in the instructions to solder and there isn't rally much of an area to solder to.

Edited by benl1981
Link to comment
Share on other sites

SK what is the chance of me sending you some dollars and you purchase both units and you build them for me and put in the same imputs into mine as yours and let me know how much for the service and then send it to me in Darwin. As I am no electronics person. Just a thought may make you some cash on the side.

Cheers ICE

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys i just purchased the fuel controller today, is anyone able to scan me and email me some photos of how to make it to [email protected]??

IF some of you have the user guide online and wouldnt mind emailing me some pages to help me get started it would be awsome.

I just built the hand controller last night and that was easy, but i dont really wana spend more money buying a book i only need for 1 project.

Cheers

Dayne

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SK what is the chance of me sending you some dollars and you purchase both units and you build them for me and put in the same imputs into mine as yours and let me know how much for the service and then send it to me in Darwin.  As I am no electronics person.  Just a thought may make you some cash on the side.

Cheers ICE

Hi Ice, my hourly rate is pretty expensive and we have race meetings back to back for the next 3 weeks. Then a 2 week break, maybe I can fit it in then. PM me for more details.

:D cheers :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to jump in guys, but how effective is the DFA without ignition timing changes?

I'm looking to use it in a tiptronic Mitsu FTO. The increased tuning points makes it more attractive to me than the SAFC, but the Greddy e-manage has an 'auto shift compensation feature' (ignition timing compensation at set shift-up and shift-down points).

How I'm interpreting that is that it would only be of benefit if I use tiptronic mode and shifted at certain RPM levels. The car spends most of it's time in full auto mode anyway, so would that mean it's not really beneficial??

Cheers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry to jump in guys, but how effective is the DFA without ignition timing changes?

I'm looking to use it in a tiptronic Mitsu FTO. The increased tuning points makes it more attractive to me than the SAFC, but the Greddy e-manage has an 'auto shift compensation feature' (ignition timing compensation at set shift-up and shift-down points).

How I'm interpreting that is that it would only be of benefit if I use tiptronic mode and shifted at certain RPM levels. The car spends most of it's time in full auto mode anyway, so would that mean it's not really beneficial??

Cheers.

The DFA is as effective as any other AFM voltage bender. They are great up to the point where to tune any (lower voltage) leaner would mean too much ignition advance. That's where you compromise, keep it a bit richer so it is not knocking because of too advance ignition timing.

From my limited knowledge of Mitsubishi auto shift logic, they appear to already have a full set of maps for ignition cut/interupt/retard on gearchanges. So I can't see what the EManage will do, other than stuff up that logic.

The DFA makes no difference whatsoever to the auto shift logic program on Skylines and I see no reason why it would on the FTO either.

:D cheers :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick question guys.

Just about to finish the DFA kit - there is a 4Mhz component that looks like a link from the D25 socket should be soldered to it..is this correct?

Here is a phot from someone else here that I just copied and drew on to show the piece

Thanks

digitalfueladjuster29ug.jpg

Edited by benl1981
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick question guys. 

Just about to finish the DFA kit  - there is a 4Mhz component that looks like a link from the D25 socket should be soldered to it..is this correct?

Here is a phot from someone else here that I just copied and drew on to show the piece

Thanks

digitalfueladjuster29ug.jpg

That the earth for the case of the 4mz crystal, it has to be soldered to the case.

:( cheers ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cool - thanks. I did that anyway.

Just started calibrating it. The trimpot I found hard to regulate the voltage. I was able to get 5.1V for the input then at the test point I just matched it pretty close...and when doing the outlet adjusted to get about 5.1v. SOund ok you think?

Do you guys use the fine or coarse mode?? I think for course mode you have to put the link in..

Thanks

Edited by benl1981
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A feww things:

1. The solder doesn't go on the 4MHz device the best - did you find that?

2. I find the test pot voltage fluctuates about 0.1 volt. Is this normal?

Just pulled the kick panel off to have a look at the ECU. I think the R33 pinot must be different to the stagea one. I think AFM is pin 27, not sure about 12volt + pin. You want a non switched 12v right??

WIll be nice if I am able to gain 10-20% power ;)

3. Also - what should I set base timing to before the dyno tune. I think I am at about 17-18 deg BTDC. Manual says 15deg BTDC. Should I put it back to factory spec??

4. Should the link be in to put it in coarse mode or leave it out for fine? THis is in the DFA

Edited by benl1981
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1. The solder doesn't go on the 4MHz device the best - did you find that? 

2. I find the test pot voltage fluctuates about 0.1 volt.  Is this normal? 

3. Just pulled the kick panel off to have a look at the ECU.  I think the R33 pinot must be different to the stagea one. I think AFM is pin 27, not sure about 12volt + pin.  You want a non switched 12v right??

4. WIll be nice if I am able to gain 10-20% power ;)

5. Also - what should I set base timing to before the dyno tune.  I think I am at about 17-18 deg BTDC. Manual says 15deg BTDC.  Should I put it back to factory spec??

Suggestions to your quetions follow;

1. You have to heat it up a fair bit, it's a big heat sink. Not too much heat, just enough to get the solder to flow.

2. Yes

3. The R33 ECU pin outs are definitely different to the Stagea, which is R34 spec.

4. Yes

5. I set mine at 15 degrees, tuned the DFA, all the time checking for pre-ignition while tuning the A/F ratios. Because I had the standard exhaust I couldn't get the A/F ratios lean enough (still around 11 to 1). Later on I fitted the adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley, while I was doing the cambelt service. With 4 degrees retarded exhaust camshaft timing I was able to advance the ignition a few degrees without any pre-ignition. So it is now around 20 degrees. But I figure once I finish the exhaust, I might have to go back to standard timing (15 degrees) to tune the A/F ratios a little closer to 12 to 1.

Hope that answered your questions

:) cheers :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Gary. Sounds good. might set it back to 15deg then.

Just to make sure, I have the centre plastic piece removed so all the coil packs are exposed. I am using the wire going to No. 1 coil pack to get the reading for the timing light and unclipping the TPS. Will this give the correct reading? I can’t really use the loop at the back.

Edited by benl1981
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well I had 2 choices from then on. I either had to (reluctantly) move it on to another potential buyer and take the loss on the chin. Or I stick with it and turn it into a restoration project. I chose the latter. Project Snowstorm began! The frp body kit was the first thing to go. Turns out the original colour used to be silver. The Neo and gearbox were removed, along with the prop and exhaust system before it took a trip to the bodyshop, where I wouldn’t see it again for quite some time due to the pandemic hitting very soon after they took it away. Eventually, progress began and damage assessments made. Even the front chassis leg was in pretty bad shape!     Then the chopping commenced. For these guys it was just usual routine, to me it looked absolutely terrifying!   More to follow as I’m struggling to focus on my screen at 12:45 am!!!
    • That's the most absurd thing I've ever heard. I would go cut bellhousing over that monstrosity of a flywheel all day, every day. It puts a lot more mass further from the last main bearing. I've had nothing but problems with Collins in the past and refuse to ever buy their products again. I would not trust anything they tell you. He's playing his salesman card.  I'm currently at 640whp on a mustang dyno (~770bhp) with the intentions of running E85 and a lot more power this upcoming spring. Cheers, 
    • Nah, it's not the reduced knock margin. It is a direct mechanical effect of having to initiate the combustion earlier, while the piston is still rising, which starts to exert combustion pressure on the rising piston earlier, making the rest of the engine work harder to finish driving the piston up to TDC where the combustion pressure stops being a negative and starts being a positive. Your modern engine that only needs ~10° to make MBT doesn't waste the other 10 or so degrees of crank rotation. That's almost all of it. The difference in knock margin might go either way. Remember that modern engines to which you are currently comparing the long tractor engine (the RB) are now running super high compression, direct injection, tricky cam control and maybe even cylinder pressure sensors. You're not comparing apples with other fruit. It's apples and sea weed, or some other evolutionarily primitive vegetation. And remember, squish only really comes into play at the very end of the stroke. It certainly does good things, but it is not the biggest contributor to what's going on. It is quite possibly much less important in 4 valve head than 2 valvers also, because there is so much less squish available to a 4 valve anyway.
    • Food for thought, a longer stroke motor would need less ignition timing vs. a shorter stroke motor requiring more ignition timing.
    • Thanks Duncan, HART is only 10 mins from me (I did my bike license there), it'd be awesome if it ran these types of things.  Sutton Road does look good and they take fewer cars than SMSP which is good.  Surely you have enough land to lay a few million tonnes of concrete and some sprinklers D? 
×
×
  • Create New...