Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[benl1981]

Are they the threaded spacers (they look too fat I think)? The other ones are just like washers (not fat enough)...

I'll finish it off tonight - but did your screen sit completely flat or tilited slightly?

thanks guys

[Sydneykid]

Are they the threaded spacers (they look too fat I think)?  The other ones are just like washers (not fat enough)...

I'll finish it off tonight - but did your screen sit completely flat or tilited slightly? 

thanks guys

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

My screen is completely flat. Sorry I can't remember what spacers I used and I can't just take a look as my Controller is out on loan at the moment.

cheers

[benl1981]

I want to make sure the DFA works before getting the car on the dyno. COuld I use a pair or 3 AA batteries to replicate the 0-5v signal??

Edited November 26, 2005 by benl1981

[emanuelt]

Use your car battery to test it with the trimpot turn the 12V down to 5v and clabrate it. Read the paper work again page 123 the 0-5V section. Good luck, it took me a while too.

[Sydneykid]

The LCD screen is held in place with two screws. One in the top left and one in the top right. These go though the main board and into the case. You have to solder the connections from the LCD screen to the main board.

The spacers go under the main board between it and the case. The top 2 screws go through the LCD board, through the main board through 2 spacers and screw into the case. The bottom 2 screws go through the main board, through 2 spacers and screw into the case.

If you don't put the spacers in between the case and the main board the buttons won't stick up far enough for you to push down, and the LCD screen will have a gap between it and the lid.

Have a look on Page 106 of the Performance Electronics for Cars, if you don't have one, I strongly suggest you spend the $20 and get one from Jaycar.

Hope that helps

cheers

[benl1981]

I'll buy the book but they do give you the photociopies with the units.

Edited November 26, 2005 by benl1981

[benl1981]

More importantly - do you have to solder the LCD screen/board to the 14pin header?? I see it is copper lined on the holes in the LCD board so not sure if it needs to be soldered. Doesn't say in the instructions to solder and there isn't rally much of an area to solder to.

Edited September 14, 2005 by benl1981

[ICE12]

SK what is the chance of me sending you some dollars and you purchase both units and you build them for me and put in the same imputs into mine as yours and let me know how much for the service and then send it to me in Darwin. As I am no electronics person. Just a thought may make you some cash on the side.

Cheers ICE

[LO_R33]

Hey guys i just purchased the fuel controller today, is anyone able to scan me and email me some photos of how to make it to [email protected]??

IF some of you have the user guide online and wouldnt mind emailing me some pages to help me get started it would be awsome.

I just built the hand controller last night and that was easy, but i dont really wana spend more money buying a book i only need for 1 project.

Cheers

Dayne

[benl1981]

they should have provided that in the pack...min came with a thick lot of photocopies...the DFA construction info was buried in there in the middle I think

[Sydneykid]

SK what is the chance of me sending you some dollars and you purchase both units and you build them for me and put in the same imputs into mine as yours and let me know how much for the service and then send it to me in Darwin.  As I am no electronics person.  Just a thought may make you some cash on the side.

Cheers ICE

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi Ice, my hourly rate is pretty expensive and we have race meetings back to back for the next 3 weeks. Then a 2 week break, maybe I can fit it in then. PM me for more details.

cheers

[benl1981]

If not confident building it you can get SAFCs very cheap 2nd hand (about 250-350)

[raz0r$harP.UK]

Sorry to jump in guys, but how effective is the DFA without ignition timing changes?

I'm looking to use it in a tiptronic Mitsu FTO. The increased tuning points makes it more attractive to me than the SAFC, but the Greddy e-manage has an 'auto shift compensation feature' (ignition timing compensation at set shift-up and shift-down points).

How I'm interpreting that is that it would only be of benefit if I use tiptronic mode and shifted at certain RPM levels. The car spends most of it's time in full auto mode anyway, so would that mean it's not really beneficial??

Cheers.

[Sydneykid]

Sorry to jump in guys, but how effective is the DFA without ignition timing changes?

I'm looking to use it in a tiptronic Mitsu FTO. The increased tuning points makes it more attractive to me than the SAFC, but the Greddy e-manage has an 'auto shift compensation feature' (ignition timing compensation at set shift-up and shift-down points).

How I'm interpreting that is that it would only be of benefit if I use tiptronic mode and shifted at certain RPM levels. The car spends most of it's time in full auto mode anyway, so would that mean it's not really beneficial??

Cheers.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The DFA is as effective as any other AFM voltage bender. They are great up to the point where to tune any (lower voltage) leaner would mean too much ignition advance. That's where you compromise, keep it a bit richer so it is not knocking because of too advance ignition timing.

From my limited knowledge of Mitsubishi auto shift logic, they appear to already have a full set of maps for ignition cut/interupt/retard on gearchanges. So I can't see what the EManage will do, other than stuff up that logic.

The DFA makes no difference whatsoever to the auto shift logic program on Skylines and I see no reason why it would on the FTO either.

cheers

[benl1981]

Quick question guys.

Just about to finish the DFA kit - there is a 4Mhz component that looks like a link from the D25 socket should be soldered to it..is this correct?

Here is a phot from someone else here that I just copied and drew on to show the piece

Thanks

Edited September 18, 2005 by benl1981

[Sydneykid]

Quick question guys. 

Just about to finish the DFA kit  - there is a 4Mhz component that looks like a link from the D25 socket should be soldered to it..is this correct?

Here is a phot from someone else here that I just copied and drew on to show the piece

Thanks

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

That the earth for the case of the 4mz crystal, it has to be soldered to the case.

cheers

[benl1981]

cool - thanks. I did that anyway.

Just started calibrating it. The trimpot I found hard to regulate the voltage. I was able to get 5.1V for the input then at the test point I just matched it pretty close...and when doing the outlet adjusted to get about 5.1v. SOund ok you think?

Do you guys use the fine or coarse mode?? I think for course mode you have to put the link in..

Thanks

Edited September 18, 2005 by benl1981

[benl1981]

A feww things:

1. The solder doesn't go on the 4MHz device the best - did you find that?

2. I find the test pot voltage fluctuates about 0.1 volt. Is this normal?

Just pulled the kick panel off to have a look at the ECU. I think the R33 pinot must be different to the stagea one. I think AFM is pin 27, not sure about 12volt + pin. You want a non switched 12v right??

WIll be nice if I am able to gain 10-20% power

3. Also - what should I set base timing to before the dyno tune. I think I am at about 17-18 deg BTDC. Manual says 15deg BTDC. Should I put it back to factory spec??

4. Should the link be in to put it in coarse mode or leave it out for fine? THis is in the DFA

Edited September 18, 2005 by benl1981

[Sydneykid]

1. The solder doesn't go on the 4MHz device the best - did you find that? 

2. I find the test pot voltage fluctuates about 0.1 volt.  Is this normal? 

3. Just pulled the kick panel off to have a look at the ECU.  I think the R33 pinot must be different to the stagea one. I think AFM is pin 27, not sure about 12volt + pin.  You want a non switched 12v right??

4. WIll be nice if I am able to gain 10-20% power

5. Also - what should I set base timing to before the dyno tune.  I think I am at about 17-18 deg BTDC. Manual says 15deg BTDC.  Should I put it back to factory spec??

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Suggestions to your quetions follow;

1. You have to heat it up a fair bit, it's a big heat sink. Not too much heat, just enough to get the solder to flow.

2. Yes

3. The R33 ECU pin outs are definitely different to the Stagea, which is R34 spec.

4. Yes

5. I set mine at 15 degrees, tuned the DFA, all the time checking for pre-ignition while tuning the A/F ratios. Because I had the standard exhaust I couldn't get the A/F ratios lean enough (still around 11 to 1). Later on I fitted the adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley, while I was doing the cambelt service. With 4 degrees retarded exhaust camshaft timing I was able to advance the ignition a few degrees without any pre-ignition. So it is now around 20 degrees. But I figure once I finish the exhaust, I might have to go back to standard timing (15 degrees) to tune the A/F ratios a little closer to 12 to 1.

Hope that answered your questions

cheers

[benl1981]

Thanks Gary. Sounds good. might set it back to 15deg then.

Just to make sure, I have the centre plastic piece removed so all the coil packs are exposed. I am using the wire going to No. 1 coil pack to get the reading for the timing light and unclipping the TPS. Will this give the correct reading? I can’t really use the loop at the back.

Edited September 18, 2005 by benl1981