Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[ned]

Hi all,

To save everyone trawling through this thread (all 30+ pages so far), would it be possible to start a new "troubleshooting the jaycar kits" thread (possibly in the FAQ area)?

I have a problem with mine and have now gained valuable tips from reading this but geez it took a while.

Cheers

Ned

[mr_squiggle_1]

Hi all,

i have just hooked my iebc up and did a test run in the car. the problem i have is that weather the output is set to 0% or 100% it doesnt let any vaccum through, and boosts way out of control. Am I right when i am thinking that my solenoid is stuffed? Or could there be a mistake some where else?

Hopegully you can help.

Neil

ps. its on a CA18DET Silvia.

Edited October 13, 2005 by mr_squiggle_1

[NewKleer]

is the ca18 solenoid compatible with this?

[mokompri]

i have finished, installed and mildly tuned the IEBC on my sr20det s13 with great results !

all my info is in the below link

IEBC

[Sydneykid]

Hi all,

i have just hooked my iebc up and did a test run in the car. the problem i have is that weather the output is set to 0% or 100% it doesnt let any vaccum through, and boosts way out of control. Am I right when i am thinking that my solenoid is stuffed? Or could there be a mistake some where else?

Hopegully you can help.

Neil

ps. its on a CA18DET Silvia.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I don't know whether CA18DET boost control solenoid is normally closed or normally open style. You need to check that, turn the IEBC on and try blowing through the fittings on the solenoid. If you get no resistence both ways then it is normally open. If you get resistance one way (at least), then it is normally closed. Then you know which way to set up your IEBC (as per the instructions).

Hope that helps

cheers

[NewKleer]

went to dyno last night, ended up going from 105 to 112.5 kw (pretty much expected), but it was on coarse mode which was overkill - if i upgrade the turbo, cooler, fuel pump etc then ill probably disconnect and recalibrate it on fine mode before giving it another shot.

dyno sheets here: 1 2

if i had more time id have leaned out the section at 3600-4000 a bit and focused more on lower end of scale, but was a good first attempt (first time ive been on a dyno) and will mean if i upgrade and so on ill be able to tune it better/quicker.

Edited October 14, 2005 by NewKleer

[chrissso]

YAS! I finished building my DFA and IEBC + hand controller. I found them pretty easy to make too. No issues with wrong wiring and the DFA was easy to calibrate..etc.

I came arcoss one problem though.

WhenI installed the IEBC, I found that the solenoid wouldn't work.

I don't know if this has been mentioned (alot of posts in this thread) but it turns out that the std solenoid has ignition switched power going to it. The ecu connector to the boost solenoid (pinout 25 on R33) is a switched ground. SO the ECU opens the solenoid by connecting input 25 to ground.

I connected pin 25 to the IEBC (not knowing the above) and the solenoid wouldn't work because basically I'd connected 12v ignition power running through the solenoid to the out on the IEBC. -no ground

So, at the solenoid I will change the wires over and ground one out. I don't think you can run a reverse current through a solenoid as I think it will shut it even tighter instead of opening it. - Is this right?

Does this make sense? The solenoid does work - I tested it.

Anyone else find a different way of over coming this?

Thanks for any advise

Also...

If anyone on the goldcoast wants help with their soldering or installs PM me. - glad to help.

Or if you want me to build one for you, I might be able to do something for a small fee!

Chris

[Sydneykid]

YAS!  I finished building my DFA and IEBC + hand controller.  I found them pretty easy to make too. No issues with wrong wiring and the DFA was easy to calibrate..etc. 

I came arcoss one problem though.

WhenI installed the IEBC, I found that the solenoid wouldn't work. 

I don't know if this has been mentioned (alot of posts in this thread) but it turns out that the std solenoid has ignition switched power going to it.  The ecu connector to the boost solenoid (pinout 25 on R33) is a switched ground. SO the ECU opens the solenoid by connecting input 25 to ground.

I connected pin 25 to the IEBC (not knowing the above) and the solenoid wouldn't work because basically I'd connected 12v ignition power running through the solenoid to the out on the IEBC.  -no ground

So, at the solenoid I will change the wires over and ground one out.  I don't think you can run a reverse current through a solenoid as I think it will shut it even tighter instead of opening it. - Is this right?

Does this make sense?  The solenoid does work - I tested it.

Anyone else find a different way of over coming this?

Thanks for any advise

Also...

If anyone on the goldcoast wants help with their soldering or installs PM me. -  glad to help.

Or if you want me to build one for you, I might be able to do something for a small fee!

Chris

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hi, all I did was cut the solenoid output wire at the ecu plug and wire in the IEBC. I didn't do any wiring at the solenoid.

cheers

[chrissso]

Hi, all I did was cut the solenoid output wire at the ecu plug and wire in the IEBC.  I didn't do any wiring at the solenoid.

cheers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah, I read back through and found that.. I couldn't figure it out. I have a feeling that the Stag with the r34 spec ecu may use a positive switching solenoid.

According to this diagram, the r33 is negaively switched as one side of the solenoid goes back to ignition.

(Please ignore ths CUT's)

I whacked a multimeter on the number 25 wire going to the engne bay and sure enough, 12v when the ignition was on.

I'm going to do the experiment mentioned in my other post and I shall let you all know of the results.

Does anyone have a link to the r34/Stag wire schematic? I found a pinout list only.

[xRHETTx]

Installed my DFA on the weekend, learned an important lesson in life - never do anything complicated when you are running late...

First i cut the wrong wires at the ECU (read the diagram backwards!). The car didnt like running having an injector signal or something going through the DFA...

I was in a rush as i was going to the SAU-Vic dyno day we had on sat, and i wanted the DFA in so i could maybe get them to do some tuning.

On the dyno the car was running lean, would have made about 135kW, only mods cat back and pod filter. I bypassed the DFA and Made 128.3kW, with the ratios much better. It turns out i stuffed the calibration up, had it all good, then when you are meant to set vr2 for 0V input, it was already on 0V but i still turned it a little... therefore stuffing the voltage difference up. And because i was in a rush i didnt check it...

The AFR trace is quite interesting, for the two runs it is almost identical, just with one trace shifted up a ratio or so. The ratios without the DFA ended up pretty good, i guess ill wait until i increase the boost to get it tuned.

Rhett

[Sydneykid]

Yeah, I read back through and found that..  I couldn't figure it out.  I have a feeling that the Stag with the r34 spec ecu may use a positive switching solenoid.

According to this diagram, the r33 is negaively switched as one side of the solenoid goes back to ignition.

The Stagea ECU switches negative to open the solenoid, the same as all R32/33/34 Skylines do. The IEBC switches negative as per the attached schematic from Page 138 of the Performance Electronics for Cars;

So I have no idea why you are having a problem, the IEBC works perfectly with all of the Nissan boost control solenoids I have tried. None of them needed any wiring changes.

cheers

[chrissso]

The Stagea ECU switches negative to open the solenoid, the same as all R32/33/34 Skylines do.  The IEBC switches negative as per the attached schematic from Page 138 of the Performance Electronics for Cars;

So I have no idea why you are having a problem, the IEBC works perfectly with all of the Nissan boost control solenoids I have tried.  None of them needed any wiring changes.

cheers

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

OK, Cool. With that in mind I shall check out the links and read the book.

Thanks..

[chrissso]

Fark. Friggin link #5. Different in the book than on the PCB diagram.

Looks like you have to follow the book for ALL links, not just the links with jumpers.

The other problem. I wired my power to acc and the solenoid is wired to ignition. So, the controller would come on at ACC (for testing) but there was no power to the solenoid - solenoid not work.

Might change that for safteys sake.

Anyway.

Thanks SK for everything.

All in all, very easy. Minimal trouble shooting, etc.

Chris

Edited November 1, 2005 by chrissso

[Sydneykid]

Fark.  Friggin link #5. Different in the book than on the PCB diagram.

Looks like you have to follow the book for ALL links, not just the links with jumpers. 

The other problem.  I wired my power to acc and the solenoid is wired to ignition.  So, the controller would come on at ACC (for testing) but there was no power to the solenoid - solenoid  not work.

Might change that for safteys sake.

Anyway. 

Thanks SK for everything.

All in all, very easy.  Minimal trouble shooting, etc.

Chris

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Glad to hear that it is working. Please post up your results and thoughts after a few days of use.

cheers

[AlexCim]

Ok,

Just had the car worked on and when they put the vacumm hoses back they put them back the wrong way. (FMIC work+ BOS importing split front/dump)

Anyway, i fixed it all but i got given a hose with a restrictor in there that wasnt mine. Anyway, with the restrictor i was given i was boosting to about 12psi..

Anyway, since then, i soldered and redrilled the restrictor to 1mm (didnt have 1.25, plus figured that i could get even less boost that was and use lower duty cycles)

Anyway, on my low boost map of 100% duty cycle across the board, the car starts off at about 5psi at ~2000, then at about ~4000 the cars boosting ~6psi and then at about ~6000 the car is boosting ~8psi. Whats up with that? The vent is smaller so it should be letting MORE air to the wastegate. Also, the turbo should be running out of puff at high RPMs, before the cooler i had to drop the duty cycles at high rpm to hold the same psi...

My plumbing is set up as below

When they put the nipple on the intercooler pipes, they used a big nipple. The only thing that i can think it to be, to be causing this creep is that the reducer between the big pipe on the IC and the small pipe on the solinoid is reducing flow at high RPM? Alternativly, the solinoid is on the way out?

Anybody got any ideas on this?

Cheers..

I dont mind this creep, ill just have to factor it in when map, but its odd that even at 100% duty, i cant get it below 8psi at close tor redline?

[Sydneykid]

PM sent, vacuum plumbing looks fishy. But hard to tell from the angle of the photo.

Wasegate actuator works on pressure not flow, so hose size is pretty much irrelevant.

I have never seen a Nissan solenoid fail, they are pretty bullet proof.

The new 1.25 mm vent = higher boost than the old 1.0 mm vent, because more air is being bypassed (away from the wastegate actuator). You didn't mention that in your PM.

cheers

Edited November 3, 2005 by Sydneykid

[chrissso]

I had a bit of this. Boost went from 6 psi to 10 psi depending on revs. Turned out to be a new k&n pod filter. The old pod filter was more restictive and flowed less. BUT, with the old pod, the boost will rise from 6psi to 9 psi and then reduce to 8. I have a dump pipe too and thought it was it helping this issue as well but after talking to a few people, this was dismissed. - still dunno though.

Anyway - the most common cause of this is an air leak in your vacuum hoses to the actuator - so check these out first.

And, you could be right about the reducer causing a restriction.

Retuning your IEBC will probably help you get a flat 8psi though.

Isn't the yellow banded pipe the restricted one? Or is it the red...

Edited November 3, 2005 by chrissso

[AlexCim]

The red circles are tight junctions...

From your PM SK

1. What's the T piece for on the pressure feed from the intercooler return pipe? Or is is just a reducer for the large to small hose connection? It is just a reducer

2. Where does the front hose go? The one with the pink stipe, that comes off the T piece (the other hose off the T piece goes to the wastegate actuator). Vents to atmosphere

3. Have you blocked off the fitting on the inlet to the turbo? Uh..actually no. Should i put the one with the restrictor connected to that nipple? The hose isnt long enough to reach that location. The inlet is just venting to the atmo, but its before. What could leaving this open cause? Some air being sucked in after the AFM?

[Sydneykid]

The red circles are tight junctions...

From your PM SK

1. What's the T piece for on the pressure feed from the intercooler return pipe? Or is is just a reducer for the large to small hose connection? It is just a reducer

2. Where does the front hose go? The one with the pink stipe, that comes off the T piece (the other hose off the T piece goes to the wastegate actuator). Vents to atmosphere

3. Have you blocked off the fitting on the inlet to the turbo? Uh..actually no. Should i put the one with the restrictor connected to that nipple? The hose isnt long enough to reach that location. The inlet is just venting to the atmo, but its before. What could leaving this open cause? Some air being sucked in after the AFM?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yes, you are partially bypassing the AFM, best to plumb the vent back into the turbo inlet. Also stops the dust and dirt getting in (sealed system). Vacuum hose cost ~$5 from SupaCheap for several metres

cheers

[mokompri]

hi all,

im swapping my turbo and with it comes a HKS actuator with a 14psi spring. im going to be running around 18psi.

has anyone got experience with the IEBC and a higher springrate actuator ? wouldi it cause a cycling issue where it would spool, overboost, drop boost and then cycle through overboost and drop boost, especially on part throttle ? i know you get this issue if you dont progressively ramp up the duty cycle

would boost controll be better/more adjustable with a 7psi actuator, or should i keep the HKS one ? im guessing you would have to load up the actuator even earlier or else all of a sudden it will pop open, lose alot of boost, then close and so on

Edited November 7, 2005 by mokompri