Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[Munkyb0y]

$150 sounds about normal for safc type tune (piggyback). try ring unigroup

NewKleer, thanks again mate. always very helpful

EDIT: let me just add, the quote i got over the phone was $400 !! My response was "O....K, i'll be sure to get back to you". (wont name the tuner, not unigroup)

Edited August 18, 2006 by Munkyb0y

[fcruz3r]

after reading about the tremendous success SK has had with the jaycar boost controller and FC ...i know which approach I want to take...but for the life of me I can't teach myself to solder ..or to tune a car.

[EGA41T]

after reading about the tremendous success SK has had with the jaycar boost controller and FC ...i know which approach I want to take...but for the life of me I can't teach myself to solder ..or to tune a car.

i can sell you my DFA, hand controller, connecting cable, and the jaycar performance electronics book if you are interested.

they are completely assembled but i no longer have any use for them as i am going the power fc route.

[funkymonkey]

Group buy #3 is on for these items

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=132680

[the big JC]

how hard are the digital fuel controllers to tune and what benifets would come from using one on a N/A car

[Kaz200]

quick question: are the turbo timers easy to turn off? Blown a coolant hose before, so would want to turn the car off quick in that situation.

[NewKleer]

most turbo timers have an "turn off now" function\button

[benro2]

Moved post to here due to no replies...and this thread needs to be kept as short as possible!

Edited October 4, 2006 by benro2

[mr manfringinsen]

No more so than if the wastegate actuator vacuum hose falls off, splits or leaks. In fact, based on the reliability of electrical components in the cabin compared to rubber hoses under the bonnet, I would go the other way.

cheers

If a tee was placed inbetween the solenoid and the wastegate actuator which had an orifice equivalent to the upper limit of boost you want to run and was fed from the inlet. Would this not provide the protection from excess boost? or am I now describing a parallel system.

Is there some problem with running these solenoids for extended periods at 100%? Are they notorious for overheating or are you just being cautious.

[Sydneykid]

If a tee was placed inbetween the solenoid and the wastegate actuator which had an orifice equivalent to the upper limit of boost you want to run and was fed from the inlet. Would this not provide the protection from excess boost? or am I now describing a parallel system.

You are describing a parrallel system that would slow down the boost build. The fastest possible boost build is an advantage of the IEBC.

Is there some problem with running these solenoids for extended periods at 100%?

Nope

Are they notorious for overheating or are you just being cautious.

They are what is termed a normally closed solenoid ie; they LIKE being closed, it's their natural state.

cheers

[mr manfringinsen]

They are what is termed a normally closed solenoid ie; they LIKE being closed, it's their natural state.

I understood it to open as you apply duty cycle ie. 100% = open 0% = closed

I asked because I noticed that you were aiming for approx 60% duty cycle instead of 100%. That may bring back the slight surging you felt on the freeway when you needed a little throttle uphill. It would reduce your resolution by limiting the duty cycle to 60%.

I guess what I am asking is why do you wish to limit it to 60%

PS I think you have spent more time answering questions than it took to build, install and test the unit.

[Sydneykid]

They are what is termed a normally closed solenoid ie; they LIKE being closed, it's their natural state.

1. I understood it to open as you apply duty cycle ie. 100% = open 0% = closed

2. I asked because I noticed that you were aiming for approx 60% duty cycle instead of 100%. That may bring back the slight surging you felt on the freeway when you needed a little throttle uphill. It would reduce your resolution by limiting the duty cycle to 60%.

3. I guess what I am asking is why do you wish to limit it to 60%

PS I think you have spent more time answering questions than it took to build, install and test the unit.

1. You got it. Most of the time I drive around on zero boost, so the solenoid is closed.

2. The surging was due to the R&R mapping of the ECU, tuning the SAFC fixed it

3. The 60% was the suggested target by SC, the idea being it gives you room to move up or down. If you are already at say 90%, then you don't have much room to move. BTW I am still running that table I posted last year (lots of 90% in there).

cheers

[ellie]

SK - I have an Apexi boost control solonoid (you know how they work!)

Instead of it being plumbed into the common port and hooking up the normally open or normally closed for internal or external wastegates respectively - Doyou think it would work allright if you plumb boost pressure to the NC port, COM to the wastegate and NO as your vent.

Effectively when the solonoid is energised the boost pressure will be allowed to go straight through to the wastegate without any bleed off via the vent and when the solonoid is de-energised the traped air between the solonoid and wastegate can ecape via the NO(vent) port.

Works exactly the same but has no bleed off on boost.

The only problem I can see with this setup is that the size of the vent hole gouverns the duty cycle required!

Your thoughts would be most appreciated!

[Sydneykid]

SK - I have an Apexi boost control solonoid (you know how they work!)

Instead of it being plumbed into the common port and hooking up the normally open or normally closed for internal or external wastegates respectively - Doyou think it would work allright if you plumb boost pressure to the NC port, COM to the wastegate and NO as your vent.

Effectively when the solonoid is energised the boost pressure will be allowed to go straight through to the wastegate without any bleed off via the vent and when the solonoid is de-energised the traped air between the solonoid and wastegate can ecape via the NO(vent) port.

Works exactly the same but has no bleed off on boost.

The only problem I can see with this setup is that the size of the vent hole gouverns the duty cycle required!

Your thoughts would be most appreciated!

Sounds OK, just whetever you are driving it with will need some duty cycle adjustment, but that's hardly unusual.

Cheers

Edited October 23, 2006 by Sydneykid

[Andi]

Gary, I believe the stock R33/R34 ECU's have self learning functions where they automatically adjust themselves when the car is driven. Given this, would the DFA (and other piggyback units such as e-manage and SAFC) have problems with the adjustments made by bending the voltages? i.e. if the ECU decides to change its values do the voltage benders constantly need readjustments?

[NewKleer]

the self-learning is mainly for the cruise conditions rather than open loop/power conditions you generally tune the DFA for. so i think, so long as you arent trying to change cruise condition operation (which wants the 14.7 or whatever ecu targets), any self-learning things shouldnt be too much of a interference.

might be worth datalogging the self learn alpha/base data from consult, but im not sure what the values represent

[pixel8r]

Gary, I believe the stock R33/R34 ECU's have self learning functions where they automatically adjust themselves when the car is driven. Given this, would the DFA (and other piggyback units such as e-manage and SAFC) have problems with the adjustments made by bending the voltages? i.e. if the ECU decides to change its values do the voltage benders constantly need readjustments?

Like newkleer said, the self learning only affects cruise conditions, whereas I know the SAFC only works on anything over 50% throttle, so the piggybacks do work well.

Not sure if the DFA works similar to the SAFC or not.

[Sydneykid]

Gary, I believe the stock R33/R34 ECU's have self learning functions where they automatically adjust themselves when the car is driven. Given this, would the DFA (and other piggyback units such as e-manage and SAFC) have problems with the adjustments made by bending the voltages? i.e. if the ECU decides to change its values do the voltage benders constantly need readjustments?

You are describing closed loop running for constant throttle cruise and idle, which isn't "learning". They have a lambda target, usually 15 to 1, and they rely on the standard, slow and narrow lambda sensor to give feedback to the ECU. The ECU constantly adjusts the fuel supply to target that lambda. This happens at cruise and idle, being constant throttle postions. The standard, slow and narrow lambda sensor is too slow and too narrow in its sensing capabilty to work when the throttle is being moved or the conditions (up hill etc) are changing.

The SAFC, DFA or equivalent is over ridden (by the ECU targetting lambda) at times of constant throttle cruise or idling. But at ALL other times the SAFC, DFA or equivalent corrections to the AFM signals results in the ECU using different (than standard) load points. Hence leaning out/richening the A/F ratios and advancing/retarding the igntion timing. Simply put, as soon as you touch the throttle the ECU goes out of closed loop control and the SAFC, DFA or equivalent is in control.

cheers

[Andi]

The SAFC, DFA or equivalent is over ridden (by the ECU targetting lambda) at times of constant throttle cruise or idling. But at ALL other times the SAFC, DFA or equivalent corrections to the AFM signals results in the ECU using different (than standard) load points. Hence leaning out/richening the A/F ratios and advancing/retarding the igntion timing. Simply put, as soon as you touch the throttle the ECU goes out of closed loop control and the SAFC, DFA or equivalent is in control.

cheers

Cheers Gary, good to hear. Would installing this DFA possible sort out my R&R problem? At 70% throttle at 5000rpm I hit a very viscous jerk that flings me forward then a second later the car accelerates only to have it happen again. I'm assuming this is R&R?

At flat throttle I can feel a few flat spots as well that basically makes the car feel very slow. Nothing as viscous as the scenerio above but noticable enough to realise that you aren't making full potential power. What could this be and could the DFA possible fix this as well?

Thanks!

[brisboy]

Hi SK'

i was wondering if you had any suggestions to my probablem. basically i bought a already built EBC and hand controller off some guy. But when i hooked it up, i didnt get any display, i opened it up and found out that a 10 ohm resister had blown, well i replaced it, and everything was fine, then later in the day, the display went out and the EBC stopped working, opened it up again, and saw the same resistor blown.

do you have any idea's why this might be happening

thank you