Jaycar Boost and Fuel Control

[GorGasm]

Cheers Gary, good to hear. Would installing this DFA possible sort out my R&R problem? At 70% throttle at 5000rpm I hit a very viscous jerk that flings me forward then a second later the car accelerates only to have it happen again. I'm assuming this is R&R?

At flat throttle I can feel a few flat spots as well that basically makes the car feel very slow. Nothing as viscous as the scenerio above but noticable enough to realise that you aren't making full potential power. What could this be and could the DFA possible fix this as well?

Thanks!

What you are describing is not R&R. I hit that same wall of sorts at about 5000rpm, as well as my friend with an R34. It seems to be a combination of high boost on less that WOT. We are totally unsure what it is. DFA will do nothing for this.

R&R is a flat spot between about 4-5.5krpm, a DFA can help to alleviate most of this.

[AlexCim]

Hi SK'

i was wondering if you had any suggestions to my probablem. basically i bought a already built EBC and hand controller off some guy. But when i hooked it up, i didnt get any display, i opened it up and found out that a 10 ohm resister had blown, well i replaced it, and everything was fine, then later in the day, the display went out and the EBC stopped working, opened it up again, and saw the same resistor blown.

do you have any idea's why this might be happening

thank you

I was blowing a certain resistor too, replaced it and then found it was stuck on load point 64.

I blew another EBC too when i found it was switching between H/L too slowly that caused it.

[AlexCim]

I am just about to tune the EBC, DFA, SITC all together to make me ~200awkw.

At the moment, I have the EBC already in, tuned to run about 13psi. The DFA will make its way in within the next two weeks, the same with the SITC.

My question is as follows: At current, my EBC is set to 13psi, which is what I normally run during the day, BUT, some nights it will go all the way up to 15-16psi. This is on nights when its really really cold and im in the mountains (not just hills).

So, leading on from that, would you suggest I use an EBC that is more able to "measure" boost, and hold accordingly, such as a ProfecB or something? Or, if I get the car tuned with the EBC/DFA/SITC it shouldnt matter if my boost increases 1-2psi at night?

Mods: Full exhaust, TRUST front mount, GCG highflow.

[brisboy]

I was blowing a certain resistor too, replaced it and then found it was stuck on load point 64.

I blew another EBC too when i found it was switching between H/L too slowly that caused it.

i have noticed that this particular resistor get really hot when i connect the hand control, but without it, it stays cool and doesnt blow. any other suggestions anyone

[NewKleer]

i cant tell you if a short circuit or incorrect circuit design is causing it, but u can replace that resistor with either 2 resistors of the same kind (ie same W rating) in parallel, with double the value (which then brings it back to original value, but it can handle twice the Watts), or a single wirewound resistor of same value.

2 resistors is better as it will hopefully still blow if u have some issue (a wirewound would cause something else to blow instead)

this should only be done if the cause of the resistor blowing is it simply cant handle the current - i havent had any issues with mine (used hc twice to tune dfa)

Edited December 4, 2006 by NewKleer

[Sydneykid]

I am just about to tune the EBC, DFA, SITC all together to make me ~200awkw.

At the moment, I have the EBC already in, tuned to run about 13psi. The DFA will make its way in within the next two weeks, the same with the SITC.

My question is as follows: At current, my EBC is set to 13psi, which is what I normally run during the day, BUT, some nights it will go all the way up to 15-16psi. This is on nights when its really really cold and im in the mountains (not just hills).

So, leading on from that, would you suggest I use an EBC that is more able to "measure" boost, and hold accordingly, such as a ProfecB or something? Or, if I get the car tuned with the EBC/DFA/SITC it shouldnt matter if my boost increases 1-2psi at night?

Mods: Full exhaust, TRUST front mount, GCG highflow.

None of the other IEBC's display this symptom. The denser air (your night example) is measured by the AFM and consequently the ECU adds the necessary fuel to compensate. This additonal fuel is noted by the IEBC and, provide you have it mapped correctly, will adjust the solenoid duty cycle to compensate. So you have a couple of choices;

1. Don't worry about it, the turbo will handle 1.5 bar easily, as will the engine. Just make sure the tuner is aware of the extra boost and tunes accordingly.

2. Fine tune the IEBC to allow for the higher injector duty cycle.

cheers

[NewKleer]

sounds like it was only tuned up to what was reachable on the day it was tuned? - you probably want to fill in the remaining ones with a guess/continuation of the last cells number (adjusting it up/down for whichever is lower boost if u want to be sure)

[AlexCim]

I understand what you guys are saying now.

Good point.

[brisboy]

i cant tell you if a short circuit or incorrect circuit design is causing it, but u can replace that resistor with either 2 resistors of the same kind (ie same W rating) in parallel, with double the value (which then brings it back to original value, but it can handle twice the Watts), or a single wirewound resistor of same value.

2 resistors is better as it will hopefully still blow if u have some issue (a wirewound would cause something else to blow instead)

this should only be done if the cause of the resistor blowing is it simply cant handle the current - i havent had any issues with mine (used hc twice to tune dfa)

sounds like a good idea, i might wire two in parrallel

thanks

[brisboy]

have another problem guys.

well i sorted the heating problem.

but for some reason i only have about 1-6 tunning points. ie at 5000 im at tunning point 4 instead of say 30 or 40.

do these things work with microtechs? i wire the input to the negative side of the injector, becuase thats what pulses the injector (the microtech grounds it)

any help is much much appreciate

thanks

[NewKleer]

sounds like it hasnt been calibrated right?

[brisboy]

sounds like it hasnt been calibrated right?

you may be right,

do you know how i would calibrate it, i think it has something to do with trimpot VR1, but other then that i wouldn't have a clue. im going crazy with this thing.

Help me please!!!

(p.s if you in brissy an know how to calibrate this thing, i will buy beers or of 6 pack of choice if you come over and fix this thing)

[Mr Void]

bugger brisboy - I cal'ed mine in Sydney and left it there with the car and instructions to pick up in the next month or so or I would come and help you out!

It really isn't difficult but there are 3 places you need to check voltages at, and cal accordingly. If someone with the instructions could scan them (or just that page) I reckon you could do it within 10mins.. just need a multimeter, 12dcv source (car battery) and a spare 50ohm (I think it was) potentiometer..

If the current group buy turns up before Christmas I'll let you know cause I've got another one on order, all the info and pot will be in there..

Edited December 19, 2006 by Mr Void

[brisboy]

bugger brisboy - I cal'ed mine in Sydney and left it there with the car and instructions to pick up in the next month or so or I would come and help you out!

It really isn't difficult but there are 3 places you need to check voltages at, and cal accordingly. If someone with the instructions could scan them (or just that page) I reckon you could do it within 10mins.. just need a multimeter, 12dcv source (car battery) and a spare 50ohm (I think it was) potentiometer..

If the current group buy turns up before Christmas I'll let you know cause I've got another one on order, all the info and pot will be in there..

thanks mate, any help is much appreciated. i did find the vr1 adjustment thing, where you can alter it with a scew driver. however if i screw it the opposite way, the input number goes to 64 and if i wind it back a bit, the numbers become erratic and jump all over the place srew it back even more, and it square one, hardly any tunning points. Im wondering if i need to build a peak hold adaptor or something like that.

if anyone can scan or point me in the directions of these calibration intruction i would be extremely grateful.

[ansch]

Hi,

Has anyone in brisbane area got their DFA tuned? Recommendations? I've contacted a couple of dyno places and getting stupid responses and quotes. Not surprising as I half expected this.

Cheers..

[skidkid]

I am in the middle of fitting a Jaycar IEBC. I found SK's Pin locations and am upto wiring solenoid (black earth). I have done all the connections at the computer. I had previously earth solenoid for high boost. Do I remove that earthed wire, then cut wire at computer (pin 104), to run solenoid earth straight to IEBC? Any helpers to clearup please or should I PM SK?

[skidkid]

All hooked up. Runs upto 8lbs as it did with high boost mod. Number 2 led flickers and no. 3 stays on when running. No. 2 the sus one. Installed SK's load points to start with. Does anybody know were the resricter is in the S2 solenoid lines and what sizes. Has anybody successfully fitted a IEBC to a S2 following SK guide. Not bagging SK guide, just wondering if any difference for S2 because 22 pages will take awhile to read through.

Edited January 6, 2007 by skidkid

[skidkid]

Alex, Are you able to quote your IEBC load points please.

[skidkid]

I have read through 2/3 of the 22 pages and found a few different load points listings. Looks like I will have to find and sort out the vent/restrictor then make some trial changes.

[NewKleer]

tip #69 - dont assume a load point listing from someone elses car will be perfect for yours. same reason you dont wear your sisters clothes (well one of the reasons) is that they wont always be a perfect fit.